CableGuy

Hiya, Looking great!! Regarding what you said about the photos, I find that when taking a picture of a TK bucket, it helps to take a step back and zoom in a little. That might sound weird but, I think it’s closer to how the human eye sees things. Whenever I took pictures with my iPhone, the proportions always looked a little different to how I saw it. By taking a step back and using a little bit of zoom, even digital zoom with an iPhone, it looks much better (to my eye). Great build btw - good work, Trooper. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hiya, Yes - he suggests either plastic tabs (white plastic squares) or nylon webbing. I went with tabs because they came with my armour kit, but either is okay. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks like solid progress, Paul. Tidy job in the switch. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow - those photos are superb. Gives a much better understanding of how these weapons work and what the resin parts are trying to emulate. Many thanks for that link. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Right, following on from Tino’s observation, I sanded a curve onto the underside of the rear sight. It now fits much better. Here a shot of before, after and a genuine sterling for comparison. I’ve noticed that my pivot point for the end cap clip is a little different, however it will be functional and appears to work okay for my build. :-) Cheers Tino. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Tino, Never fear - I really appreciate any constructive feedback. Anything to make it look great! [emoji16] I don’t think the blaster reference pdf goes into much detail on the underside of the rear sight, so I was guessing it just gets glued in place and then filled at the sides with green stuff. I prefer your idea though. I’ll use one of your tricks and wrap sand paper around the tube to get the shape right. I hope the scope/counter positioning and end cap clip looking okay. [emoji16] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Wow - looks great, Tino. Love looking at your three blasters all lined up, and the subtle differences between them. Your TM armour looks great, too. [emoji4] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Agreed. I had the same with my lid and had to lose a stripe from one side. I asked the community and the advise was just as Steve said. No problem with uneven number of stripes on either side. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s looking superb, Nate. :-) To me, your border lines look perfectly acceptable. By that, I mean they all vary a little as they were hand painted. Here’s some reference pics I used when I painted mine and I’d say your lines are consistent with screen used. It looks like the position of your hovi tips is good. (Again, the screen used ones varied). I believe the originals were white, with the outside painted black, so the inside and front edge had some white showing (as below). You might want to check out some reference pics and add some white where applicable. (Credit to starwarshelmets.com for the pics.) My old SDS lid came with black tips. I added a little Humbrol white to the front edge, as per before and after below. You’re making great progress. Dan :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Dimitri, As well as looking at lots of other builds and strapping diagrams, I also followed this video from Ross at RWA. Here’s how mine turned out. You might want to consider doing double snaps in certain places. Dan :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow - two years in its BBB. You must be really pleased to be making progress now. :-) Looking good so far. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hiya. I guess it’s just how the shins sit on my legs. I’ve now added Velcro on the front tab of my boots and have poppers on the rear tabs. They now seem very stable. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cheers, Chris. I’m also a bit perplexed. Can’t lower the back plate as everything else will drop too low. Don’t want to lower the chest or I’ll get the Mark Hamill look (no offence, Mr Hamill). I’m thinking that going from 4 to 5 notches at the front might be the best option. I’ll wait for the armourers or GML’s suggestions first before I go prizing bits off. ;-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hiya. Many thanks. I’ve built with Centurion in mind so hopefully I should be on track, especially when the straps and forearms are in check. Other than that, I think everything else should reach Centurion. And thanks for the TD tip. I’ve gone with the soft side of Velcro to stop the scratching. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi guys, I embraced the pressure and got a few more bits done. As always, I thought I’d get more done than I did, but it’s okay. :-) Started by repositioning the scope. Simple job - just need to fill he holes. Next, moved on to the end cap and clip. Added the hole on the cap. Then started pivot testing to get a working end cap clip. Currently using an unfinished nail as the pivot. Fitted the end cap clip and tested. All works just like a genuine sterling. I then fabricated the hinge part for the folding stock. Just an old piece of wood, cut and sanded to size. As it’s not going to be functional, I used a dome headed nail to hold the tube to the hinge end. Packed it with electrical tape to keep it tight. And that’s all she wrote for today. I’m really pleased with how it went today, even if it doesn’t look like much of a change from before. I think I’ll remove the end cap clip as it could be fitted straighter. Again, that’s mostly be being fussy. No resistance yet as I’ve not installed a ‘spring’ (aka folded plastic part). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hiya. By hand also, with these too. With lots of faffing, mine is now like this. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Paul. Great to see you’ve started a build thread. Here’s a side by side comparison I put together for he trigger guard, if it helps. :-) That’s sterling vs DD. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi all, My armour is now compete. Need to get my blaster compete for UKG clearance. My pre-clearance pictures raised two small areas to look at, namely the shoulder bridges covering a fair bit of the back plate, and my forearms possibly looking a little chunky. Do I look Imperial? ;-) Any thoughts or comments gratefully received. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hehe. Yeah, no pressure!! Lol Regarding the scope etc, that’s such a simple fix I’d rather do it and be that little bit more screen accurate. I’m already wishing the morning away and planning a to-do list in my head, including; Finish end cap clip Inner folding stock tube and fitting Finish power cylinders Work on flash guards Make a start on internal bolt Can’t wait. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hehe. Cheers pal. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And, with you being US based, you’re probably at least 5 hours behind my mistakes!! Lol [emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ah yes... I think my eagerness to get some bits together early on meant that I failed to check and just followed the pre-drilled pilot holes. Your scope rail is probably the same, Jesse, so you can learn from my mistakes. lol I've looked at some other builds and some are slightly different, for example with the end of the scope itself in line with the stock bolt, rather than the scope foot; however, the more accurate reference pictures go with Tino's positioning. No surprise there. ;-) I'll have another look when I get home. Any tips for filling a hole in metal? Still greenstuff? Thanks guys. I've booked a half day tomorrow so can hopefully make some solid progress. :-)

Double posted. :-(

Cheers for the above, Jesse. :-) Right, a little extra done to the sight. Side notches added. Also, is my counter position looking okay (before I drill in). Thanks in advance. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Evening everyone. So, I was thinking about my blaster and realised that I wasn’t going to be happy with the inner front end of the folding stock - specifically, the inner tube mod only running part way. Primarily because I knew it could be seen from the side. As I knew I wanted to keep a decent amount of resin for the front locking screw to attach, I decided to run the aluminium pipe the whole way - with a mod, of course. After lots of resin shaving, I achieved a suitable shape. I cut the aluminium tube in half, just big enough to cover the screw stump. Quite pleased with the result. With hindsight, I could have left a few more millimetres on either side to cover a little more ‘stump’. Aside from that, I replaced the fake screws on the Hengslter counter and the mag housing. Also added the tiny grub screw to the front sight block. Getting there. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk