CableGuy

Hiya. Power cylinders now underway. Mod to front of stock nearly finished. Also started cutting down the end cap clip to fit into the aluminium channel in Tino’s kit. (*Work in progress) :-) Dan Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey Ethan, Here’s how I did mine. I went for the poppers route. Here’s the links to the RWA tutorial videos that I followed. And one of Billhag’s helpful diagrams. Hope some of that helps. Dan :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cheers guys. Really appreciate the feedback. This feels like slow progress at the moment so you’re keeping me on target. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Howdi folks. Tonight was scope night. Bought a fantastic value set of wood spade bits. 6 piece for under £3. First I started by cutting down the larger lens from my monocular from Tino’s kit. I’ve managed to hollow as the scope, (as many have done previously), and thankfully it worked well. Also removed the resin screw heads and replaced with real ones (again, from Tino’s kit). Until next time. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Right, made quite a bit of progress this evening. Started with the scope. For those that haven't used spade bits before (like me before this evening), they look a bit like this; (Image from google - don't know if this is the right size) I measured up and drilled a Pilot hole. Then started with the spade bit, varying the speed to get a steady result. I stopped at this depth as I don't have any smaller sizes. Off to borrow more from my dad. ;-) Separated the sight and sight pin(?) Then back to using my favourite Dremel disc to work on the stock and t-tracks. And here's some pics to show the t-tracks. Really pleased with the appearance of separate parts. Before and after: As always, more to come. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cheers, Jesse. I'm in the same boat - this is my first time working with resin and I bought the Dremel purely for building my armour. I'm certainly learning as I go. I really appreciate your enthusiasm and support though. And the tips from across the board from yourself and others. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good evening. Had some fun with the ammo pack rivets last night ... NOT!! ;-) Didn't have exactly the right clamp so tried a couple of methods. My make shift use of a brick pin under the rivet and a hammer the other side left me with wonky rivets (not a recommended method, it turns out). Ended up using a good quality g-clamp to bring them home, pretty much perfect. :-) I used a large Humbrol tin for my corner curve. I checked out lots of screen shots and noticed that a large proportion of them had a gap between the cover strip and the ammo pack. As such, I followed that look. Drilled the holes with a 3mm drill and applied E-6000. Apart from painting the relevant rivets and adding another coat to the boots, I think my armour is about done. Cheers Dan :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cheers, Tino. I appreciate both your's and Brian's input on that one. I will go that route to avoid blunders. :-)

Many congrats. That's a great write up (especially for someone like me that is yet to troop) and the pictures are great. :-)

Hi Brian, That is PERFECT!! I couldn't get my head around this before, but those videos clear it all up. I wrongly assumed that the end clip 'held' the end cap in place; however, I now understand that it simply stops the end cap from being able to disengage. I'll certainly look at replicating this. Thanks again (to you, and to usaeatt2 and Tino)!! :-) Dan

Cheers, Jesse. I was quite pleased to discover that the disc just naturally 'sits' in the groove between the barrel and track. As such, a steady hand is helpful but not essential. Can't wait to do the rest now. Out of interest, if anyone has any info or a good link to the workings of the end cap clip, it'd be much appreciated. I'm struggling to understand exactly how the real ones worked. I.e. I've read bits about when it attaches to the cap, such as 'when the cap is fully depressed' etc. I'm not planning on having mine as functional, but do want it in the correct position. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow. That cutting disc is my new best friend. It is perfect for adding separation between the tracks and the barrel. I'm by no means finished yet, however it's coming together quite nicely. :-) You'll probably guess that I've been working on the middle one of these pictures. I've got the bug for this. ;-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi all, Squeezed in 10 mins and had some surprisingly good results with the following disc tool. Here's how the Doopy's folding stock comes as standard: And here's what I started to achieve with the disc cutter: Not the easiest thing to capture on camera - trying to use the shadows to show the groove. Will carry on when I can to accentuate the appearance of separation. I'm also planning on using a similar method on the tracks at the front end. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ah, cool. Good tips. If I'm honest, now that my armour is pretty much done, I might take a few simple routes for some parts as I'm really eager to get trooping. Like the scope - I'll probably just drill suitable holes and fit the lenses. Don't get me wrong, I'm not going to rush it, but might go a little simpler for this maiden build. Thankfully, DD kits are only £40ish so I might well do a super-build done the line some time. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cheers, Brian. Yes, I'm very much looking forward to getting all of the parts on. I also tried some of the grinding bits but found they weren't effective enough. Possibly okay for very fine adjustments, just not much good for shifting larger amounts. Might hollow out the scope next. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Evening all. Only small progress this evening. Removed the resin screws (lumps) from the muzzle, drilled new holes and installed the hex screws. If anyone is thinking, "which Dremel tools would be good for this project", this one is great. :-) Lumps before: Fun times. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi all, I'm proud to say that I completed my first unofficial troop today in aid of Macmillan Cancer Support. My work held a Macmillan Coffee Morning, raising money through bakes, coffees, games and a little surprise visit from a nearly finished TK. Suit is not 100% yet, (note the missing thigh ammo pack), and my shins suffered the two flights of stairs I had to navigate. Will definitely be adding Velcro to the inside front of the shins. :-) Self dressed, two flights of stairs and only appeared to suffer twisted shins. Really pleased to have helped raise some money for an incredibly worthy cause and bring some great reactions from my colleagues. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's looks superb! Excellent job. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Certainly an exciting moment when the BBB arrives. And good plan aiming for Centurion. Looking forward to seeing your progress. :-) Dan Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cheers Brad. Yes, that's the plan. Checking which areas are likely to pop and double them up. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hehe - is that a challenge? ;-) lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Many thanks, Chris. Need to get my butt into gear and finish my E-11. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Brad. I'll certainly bare that in mind. I'm already finding which areas take the most strain when moving around. I'll see how they hold up with continued use. I might go double snap on the ab to chest. If I move in a certain way, they 'can' pop. They don't always do it but extra snaps wouldn't go a miss there. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello world, Been working on the TD and ab plates over the last couple of days. Also added some padding to the inside front of my shins, (cheers Chris P). The tube that came with my TD kit was 190mm. Add on the end caps and that took it to 195mm. Test fitted the detail on top and, due to the extra 5mm on the total length, I couldn't achieve the desired 12mm gap between the end caps and the detail piece. Well, I could but I would have to leave some return edge. As below: Instead, I spoke with my UKG armourers and opted to lose 5mm off of the tube. This left me with a total length of 190mm (as suggested) and allowed me to lose the return edge. Also painted and fitted the ab buttons. Painted by hand, so not 100% perfect, but still maintains an authentic look (imo). :-) Also received further approval from my children over the weekend. ;-) (I only let her have my old SDS lid - I'm not brave enough to share my RWA lid) lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great photo with your review, Chris. TK hide and seek. ;-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk