shashachu

Looking good! Your shins do seem to be riding a bit higher than mine, but not egregiously so: re: the thighs, a lot of people stick foam in various places of their armor to make it fit better. If it helps, the thighs don't look too big, even though they may feel that way. Having just gone through the approval process with the GGG in October, I'm guessing Adam (our GML) might mention the potential pinch/armor bite points at the tops of your thighs: So maybe just have whoever's helping you with your submission photos be aware of that, and try to even out the spacing for the photos. Submission photos aside, you may want to adjust the strapping or do a bit of trimming just for mobility. Can you walk okay? Go up/down stairs? As far as dressing yourself, I can put my entire kit on myself - the hardest bits are connecting all the snaps between my right ab/kidney, and snapping both shoulder bells on. And, as you said, getting the belt straight can be a challenge. It gets a bit easier with practice, but on troops you'll also have your handlers/other troopers helping you. Anyway, don't think you should have an issue getting approved - don't be distressed if it takes a re-submission or two. Looking forward to trooping together soon!

Congrats!

Here is the thread about the WTF shin pairing: I also did what Paul suggested and paired them up long/long short/short but it probably doesn't matter in the end, as people have been approved with both combinations. Walt actually said he'd redo the shins after a big thread about it on his Facebook page but I imagine he forgot with everything else going on.

I did, but like 68Brick said, it haven't actually used them during a troop. It'd be really hard to get to them. Also, sadly they are slightly too small for trading cards, which is what I had intended to use them for. Details here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42868-sha-shas-wtf-anh-stunt-build-complete/?tab=comments#comment-576083

Personally I would cut to where your finger is pointing, as the shoulder bell should have a smooth curve there, not any sort of ridge. But TheSwede is right that you can always trim off more. I went with the measurements that Cricket listed in her build - I believe it's 5" from the edge of the ridge to the edge of the bell, and 12" from top to bottom, but you should check in her thread to confirm.

Great start! I would trim a bit more off the teeth, but I think that's more personal preference than a requirement. And yes I'd take a hair more off the top of the helmet so the brow trim aligns better to the bottom of the trap. Btw I also used Google photos to share my build photos and you should be able to get the direct link to the image and paste it into your posts and it will get converted to an embedded image.

Nice build, Andrew! Crazy that the same kit can fit me (5' 3") and you (5' 11") I'm wondering if you might need to change your ab shims; it's hard to tell but the CRL says that for EIB they can have visible seams but they should be flush. Yours look like they might be sitting under the ab/kidney. Also this is definitely due to your height, but in some of the photos it looks like the bottom of the chest might be slipping slightly under the top of the ab.

Update: approved for Centurion! https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/43656-tk-19233-requesting-anh-stunt-centurion-status-wtf-367/

Nice progress! And I'm a little late on feedback, but your biceps look like they're riding a tad low in that pic from the end of Nov. Most importantly you should be able to remove and put on your helmet by yourself, and it looks like that might be tough with the way they're sitting right now. And for torso fitting, the way I did it is to fit the ab and kidney together as a clamshell, then do the chest/back. The top of the ab/kidney should be aligned, so you'll want to be sure those are sized correctly before strapping everything together. When everything's fitting correctly, the entire torso comes together as kind of a big puzzle piece.

Thanks, everyone!!

Congrats, David!!

Here's another one that worked perfectly for me on Chrome. https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-hotlink-fix/kegnjbncdcliihbemealioapbifiaedg

Yeah Nino!

Yay another WTF trooper! Only comment I have is the gap between your biceps and forearms. Can you drop your biceps? They look better in the side shots but they're very high in the front and back shots.

Oh, and I can't take credit for the weathering - it came that way from Hyperfirm. All I did was paint over some of the brass weathering.

Wow, that was fast! Thanks Tony for the quick turnaround. What a great Christmas present.

General Information Name: Sha Sha Chu FISD Name: shashachu Legion ID#: 19233 (Legion profile page) Garrison: Golden Gate Garrison Mandatory Information Armor Maker: WTF (Walt's Trooper Factory) Helmet Maker: WTF (Walt's Trooper Factory) Blaster Type: Hyperfirm B-Grade Additional Information Height: 5' 3" Weight: 125 lbs Boots: TK Boots Canvas Belt: Rob Kittell Hand Plates: justjoseph63 Electronics: iComm & Aker amp, self-made fans Neck Seal: Soulart aka Theresa aka Geeky Pink's Phantastic Gaskets Holster: Darman's Props Centurion Level Rivets and Screws: justjoseph63 Build Thread: EIB Submission: Photos Full Body Front: Left: Correction from EIB: smoothed out bend in left shoulder bridge. Right: Left arms raised: Right arm raised: (Sorry about the balloon!) Back: Correction from EIB: Reduced (tried to eliminate) back/kidney overlap. Right side detail: Corrections from EIB: back/kidney overlap, butt plate popping out. Left side detail: Action shot: Armor Detail Abdomen detail: Cod + Butt attachment: (uses the split-rivet-in-snap method) Interior strapping: Left side rivets: Shoulder bridge elastic: Thigh ammo box: Sniper knee: Forearm wrist ends: Hand guards: Helmet Hovi tips: Green lenses: Helmet screws & ear bumps: S-trim: Blaster Corrections from EIB: reduced brass weathering on scope. Accessory Details Neck seal: Thermal detonator w/ pan head screws: Holster attachment: Boots: Thanks for your consideration!

I bought a WTF kit in April and had it within 7 weeks. I think the armor looks great - nice quality plastic, and like others have said, customer service is great. eg my kit only came with one set of ears (he usually ships 2 sets) and when I mentioned that on the fb page, Walt offered to send me a second set for free if I needed it. Also, I needed a new TD end cap and he sent me a new one completely for free, even free shipping. The armor is one of the smaller ones, so although I've seen a range of sizes of people in wtf kits, if you're very tall or heavy it might not be the best kit for you. Here's my build thread: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42868-sha-shas-wtf-anh-stunt-build/

Bravo!

Looks amazing! Do all KB kits ship in black abs? Or was it because he was having trouble finding good quality white abs and you were going to paint it anyway? Thanks again for this thread - I'm planning on doing a KB FOTK sometime next year and I know your thread will be invaluable.

501st Submission and EIB Submission Finally I was ready for submission! It took a couple rounds (mostly minor strapping/dressing changes, as well as cleaning my armor) but I was approved into the Golden Gate Garrison on October 7. TK-19233 reporting for duty! Since I built with Centurion/EIB in mind, I submitted by EIB application shortly after and was approved as well: They gave me a few suggestions for Centurion, but to be honest the biggest barrier is getting the rubber handguards to stay stuck to the rubber gloves long enough to take a set of submission photos! Since I don't plan to use the rubber gloves for trooping, I don't want to attach the handguards permanently. I tried velcro but the adhesive didn't seem to want to stick to the rubber gloves, so I'll have to explore other options. So far I've gone on two troops: a holiday lights parade and a surprise end-of-chemo party for a 13-year-old battling brain cancer. They were both everything that I had hoped to get out of the experience, and I plan to do many more troops next year. Thanks to everyone on FISD who came before me for sharing all of their armor building knowledge; I hope this thread helps out a few people in the same way. Onward to 2018!

Armor Bin The advantage of 1) using snaps for armor strapping and 2) being small is that I'm able to fit my entire kit in a 25-gallon Husky bin. (Shout out to the guy at the Home Depot who had to go up on the motorized platform to get my bin down from the top of the shelf!) I knew that I would have to line the bin with something to protect the armor from banging around inside. Luckily, I remembered that someone had given my son a Star Wars quilt when he was born, so I "borrowed" it, and used velcro to attach it. The shoulder bells, gloves, neck seal, undersuit, iComm/amp/mic all fit in the helmet: The left forearm is in the left bicep is in the left shin is in the left thigh: The blaster is in the right shin which is in the right thigh: I unsnap the chest/ab and back/kidney, and place the lower torso inside the upper torso. Both thighs go inside of that. The boots, TD, and right forearm/bicep are along the front of the bin: The helmet to the right, and holster and belt along the left and right edge. Here is everything packed in the bin: When I actually troop, the helmet as well as the blaster are in pillow cases. Everything closes easily with no pressure on the armor, and I keep patches/coins/trading cards between the liner and the edge of the bin.

Thanks! I've seen other folks use t-nuts glued into place, which is another option. The milliput felt a bit more forgiving to me, though, and I happened to have some on hand for my Doopydoo's E-11 build.

Thank you! I know that most people recommend a hot water bath over the heat gun, but 1) I takes forever to boil water and 2) I didn't have any pots big enough for the bigger armor pieces. It was a bit of a risk to use the heat gun, but if you go slowly and remove the heat just as the plastic starts to lose its spring, it works really well.

Helmet Interior I knew that I wanted to Plasti-Dip the helmet interior, and before assembling the helmet I went back and forth a few times about whether I should plasti-dip before or after assembly. I eventually decided on doing it after because I didn't want to have to drill holes through the plasti-dip for assembly, but I didn't really know how I'd disassemble the helmet after drilling all the holes in order to plasti-dip it. Retrospectively, I could have temporarily held the helmet together with screws instead of rivets for easier disassembly, but I just didn't think of it at the time. In order to plasti-dip the assembled helmet, I added blue tape to the interior of the teeth as well as the eyes, then taped a plastic bag around the entire exterior of the helmet. I sprayed about 3-4 coats of plasti-dip, leaving around 30 minutes between coats. It worked very well, and there was very little bleeding of the plasti-dip. What little there was was easily scraped off with a fingernail. The WTF kits come with a long sheet of green plastic for the lenses. Originally I was planning on just holding it in place with the ear screws (maybe with a bit cut out for the bridge of my nose), but the piece I had was just a bit too short, so I had to scrap that plan. I recalled seeing other people's builds that held the lenses in with screws, so I modeled my solution after those. I first drew a template out of cardboard, and transferred that to the green plastic. Each lens would be roughly the size of the eye, but with 3 tabs for the screws. I decided to use Chicago screws embedded in milliput. I drilled the holes into the green plastic, installed the Chicago screws, then put blobs of milliput around each of the 3 Chicago screw bases. I'd let it harden a bit, then press it into place. Very carefully, I'd unscrew the Chicago screws and remove them and the lens, leaving just the milliput and base in place to dry. For the frown mesh, I simply used a roll of cheap screen material I found at the hardware store, and held it in place with electrical tape. The whole roll only cost $5. I decided to make my own fan set using simple components found on Amazon. (Fans, wires, crimp connectors, switch, USB charger) I'm terrible at soldering, so I used crimps with heat shrinking to connect the wires. I used this diagram that I found on FISD for reference. Unfortunately, I can't recall which thread I found it in; if I find it again I will edit this post and properly give credit. I installed a length of 1/2" split electrical conduit tubing and held it in with velcro in order to hide the wires. The USB power stick sits near the right hovi tip, also held in with velcro. The power switch is just sort of floating in space, but it seems to work out fine. The fans themselves are also held in with Velcro. I took the advice of many other builds I'd seen and pointed them up towards the lenses. I got a set of tactical helmet pads from Amazon and found that my helmet would bobble around like crazy when them installed. After consulting with some folks on Facebook, I followed their advice and removed the top pad, and everything fits more snugly. My helmet still bobbles a bit if I tilt my head quickly from side to side, so I might eventually investigate other solutions, but this seems good enough for now. Here is the completed interior: