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Everything posted by Dracotrooper
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That's exciting - The scope display is a really quality piece; excellent reviews on it here on FISD.
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Hey there Lou, the FISD E-11 Blaster Reference can be useful here. I took the liberty of putting together a collage for you, check it out. Hope it is helpful to you: Your blaster is coming along beautifully by the way, and in speedy fashion! Happy building to you!
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Oh wow, the 3D version of the folding stock didn’t satisfy I gather. Great addition as it will add super realism, functionality and weight to the blaster Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Nice work hollowing the scope, I didn’t do as good a job on mine Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I'm here from across the pond Mark; Victoria doesn't have any locations with full-size Humbrol spray cans either. If Humbrol it is, you may need to settle for on-line purchasing and mail delivery. Sorry, can't speak about the technicalities of paint types and how they may be compatible or not compatible... I'm sure a trooper will chime in shortly.
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Tom's DoopyDoos ANH E11 WIP
Dracotrooper replied to BaneLives85's topic in Build Threads Requireing Maintenance
Thought I'd mention: cutting 1/3rd before bending helped my shaping process when I worked on my trigger guard, soft bend as Tino put it. For a 90 degree bend, Tino's advice is the way to go. -
Hi everyone, I roll-up my sleeves a little higher here as I gather understanding and attempt to modify my doopy trigger and trigger housing to follow that of the real thing. I ready green stuff to soon add to my doopydoos trigger and make way in the trigger housing for a future installation. I finish off with a light show of sorts; enable better light transfer for my BlastFX LED light to travel down the receiver tube. I use a 1/2 inch outer diameter clear acrylic tube (plexiglass) to mimic the barrel following SMG references. Trigger housing as seen from the top following SMG references. Interesting to see component parts out. Here are some underside pictures of the trigger housing. The hole for the trigger goes all the way up and room to boot. Really liked studying these pictures of the FISD E-11 blaster reference photo compendium. Here, you can see the casing that goes over-top the trigger housing taken out. Here's a picture of Tino's replica trigger and SMG reference. This here breathes light on how the trigger actually worked. I gather that the trigger maintained constant 'push' pressure from that bullet looking component, the trigger plunger and in pulling the trigger, compressed the spring on the back of it. I will attempt to mimic this action but after modifying the doopydoos trigger piece and doing a little carving into the trigger housing. Use green stuff to add to doopy trigger to mold like the real thing following SMG references Tino's Replica SMG trigger used to mold after. Part of Trigger housing hollowed to make way for trigger and trigger axis pin installation To increase the light effects inside the barrel when invoking the electronics, will apply a half inch outer diameter with 3 / 8 inch inner diameter clear acrylic tube (plexiglass) over top the LED light. Frost it with 150 grit sandpaper. Frosted acrylic tube; it is no longer clear and can carry light down the tube Test light effects of frosted acrylic tube with red colored blaster bolts from BlastFX Test light effects of frosted acrylic tube with blue colored stun rays from BlastFX Thank you for checking up on me once again; have a terrific day!
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I’m trying the figure out how the trigger worked in the real sterling machine gun - I see that there’s a trigger plunger - does the spring action here provide the tension for the trigger? Would appreciate any insight, especially from those that are owners of decommissioned SMG... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Hi all , Yet another update installment coming your way. Magazine housing ejector is upgraded one last time; it bothered me that it was without the 'fin' on the lower end so I J-B Welded a thin aluminum sheet to keep it in place. Also had quick wins when it came to adding realism to my grip. Installed two screws that came with Tino's Completion Set. I am quite happy with the results. I'm really loving my workbench around now as it has enabled me to get working quickly to get these MODs down; an investment I am entirely happy to have done. Back end of ejector now sufficiently detailed following SMG references - little triangle piece, which was knocked off before, is now reinforced with a thin aluminum sheet glued using J-B Weld. Installed Upgraded ejector fin in magazine housing Grip lower screw - study for replacement strategy Using drill bit to take out resin screw top - round file to clean With bolt head accommodated for, measure and use drill bit to make way for the screw installation Allan wrench used to get screw into place - grip bottom screw installed Comparison of resin and accurate screw installation. Right side of grip and trigger housing Grip lock and Tino completion set screw shortened as other side of grip lock will be used for BlastFX mode switch install Dremeled away resin screw and drill bit applied to length of shortened screw, step drill used to recess to accommodate screw head Grip lock installed with screw driver Installed grip lock screw Before and after pictures of screw to lock grip Wish you all a fabulous rest of the week! cheers!! Jesse
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There’s a separate build community for those that have purchased BlastFX on Facebook with a total of 200 members to date. Here is a link to the Facebook group; I believe it is set to public for everyone to browse : https://m.facebook.com/groups/1246759182092517 Hope the link works - perhaps an answer can be found there. I noticed also, as of Nov. 28, an ‘ancillary kit’ is available for purchase on shapeways, with trigger switch housing, and of great interest, a hollow hengstler counter - only thing is, no eagle logo but instead ‘blastfx’ on the side of it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Hi all, Quick update here - Super excited to have received my BlastFX - Essentially my electronic module that will enable sound, lights and rumble action to my Blaster! I am a proud owner of one as it is compact and meets my every need. Paul is a great guy to deal with and always at the ready to answer any questions you may have. I actually received it a while back but did a terrible blunder; I short circuited the module and likely burnt out the speaker rendering the module without sound. As he provides battery hook-up instructions, I recommend heeding to the direction provided closely. I ended up commissioning him for my battery and switch install as I proved myself a novice blundering the way I did. Paul was very accommodating and got me on my way with a fully operational BlastFX in record speed! Furthermore, it comes standard with a good amount of wiring which comes in handy during the installation stage; I don't forsee any significant challenges when I get to this step. As for my battery source; I chose the recommended Li-Po type and choose out at 3.7 volts. It is recharged via USB charger and attaches / detaches via JST 2 Connector. Mine will take upwards of 2 to 2-1/2 hours to fully charge from zero. As for what I think if it; superb. It's compact, loaded with features, lights are bright enough(red for blaster bolt/ blue for stun), and sound quality is good. The Stun mode is very vivid sounding; likely to give you goosebumps as it gave me. Rifling through options in blaster types and displays gives you control over how you particularly want to operate it - great fun! Oh, there's also a 'soon to run out of ammo' sound and a 'out of ammo' sound as well during operation, which plays to kind of the realism of the whole thing. Oh yeah, and there's a mute operation as well which reveals lights only at trigger pull, which may come in handy based on the scope of a given troop. Apart from a slight electrical hum when the module is turned on, I give it two thumbs up! I did attempt to channel the possible electronic hobbyist in me over the course of three months by doing a ton of research into Arduino Boards / Sound Boards and electrical know-how on experimenting with bread boards etc. but honestly concluded it was too much time/energy/money overhead for me for even to get anything working so I went with the quick and easy route of getting this ready-to-install module and I am not regretting it one bit. Again, given that it's compact and loaded with features, it's one of my treasured components for my e-11 build. TRamp BlastFX enabling light, sound and rumble for install into doopydoos resin e-11 blaster BlastFX main processor (arduino / sound board) with micro SD card at 128 MB. JST 2 battery connector of choice shown Display, LED light, speaker and rumble motor On / Off switch and trigger along with mode button Battery of choice - Li-Po at 3.7 volts 1200 mAh current capacity Operational instructions My test set-up before installation cheers, Jesse Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Tom's DoopyDoos ANH E11 WIP
Dracotrooper replied to BaneLives85's topic in Build Threads Requireing Maintenance
Looking good Tom! - nice seeing your blaster with black on, getting there! -
Hello everyone! Hope everyone is having a wonderful holiday celebration and here's an early Happy New Year to all you good folks at the FISD! Today, I update with revisions made on the magazine housing - it's catch assembly, the magazine ejector, making way for insertion of plastic replica magazine. Finally, I finish off with my custom aluminum trigger guard. I am to the moon and back when it came to getting a working and reliable catch assembly. Previous attempts on custom threading proved frustrating and futile; my solution with a Chicago screw and it's extender REALLY put a smile ear to ear for me =) Completing my custom trigger guard was also very rewarding as well as hollowing a large portion of the magazine well =) cheers! Mark 2 catch assembly - used Chicago screw with 1 inch extension. Butchered a 1/2 " extension to insert into catch piece Finished catch piece, forgoing green stuff additions on catch and instead file away bottom aluminum support section of catch to capture catch contours following SMG references Catch assembly, different angles Chicago screw extender cut to depth length of catch and glued in place inside catch using J-B weld Catch - various angles Magazine release button base removed and glued to top of Chicago screw using E-6000 Thickened shelf holding top part of exposed ejector using two thin styrene plastic sheets cut to pattern. Glued with E-6000 and Green stuff to finish up. Flattening the front part of the ejector made it no longer flush against the 'shelf' Catch assembly and ejector display of custom component parts for magazine housing Progression of ejector modifications of custom aluminum piece on the exposed end following SMG references Magazine release button, compression spring and catch rod in final position Catch and catch rod at final positioning on underside of magazine housing Installed catch assembly with ejector in magazine housing - various angles Installed catch assembly with ejector in magazine housing - various angles Setup for deepening the magazine housing channel for later insertion of plastic magazine replica. Dremel set up to be stationary, with magazine housing to slide overtop deck of cards for smooth movement during Dremel process. Dremel process for increasing the depth of the channel that would hold the magazine For final details, switched back to using Dremel extender. Square file to smooth out channel Process of Dremel out channel that would hold the magazine Channel widened and deepened to hold the magazine. More work to do after replica plastic magazine on hand for test fit. Magazine housing with channel deepened Original doopydoos channel configuration Vs modified channel Custom trigger guard made from aluminum - 4” long before bending to shape. Aluminum from T-Jay completion set on FISD Custom aluminum trigger guard is wider by 2mm in the front - 12mm in the front then 10mm in the rear following SMG references Doopydoos trigger guard - detached and attached Doopydoos trigger guard attachment to trigger housing Doopydoos trigger guard attachment to trigger housing Comparison of Doopydoos attached trigger guard to SMG references - it is inaccurate as it installs short compared to the real thing Research on trigger guard details - SMG reference and desired end result - this finished aluminum trigger guard by T-Jay Aluminum trigger guard, cut to length and width before shaping Construction of trigger guard - lines etched with hacksaw blade on the inside, under 1 / 3rd thickness so to guide aluminum during bending phase. Trigger piece pushed against shovel main aluminum tube body to shape so to get even distribution of bend. Test fit of custom trigger guard ends against trigger housing Comparison pictures - SMG reference to doopydoos part and custom aluminum trigger guard Completed custom aluminum trigger guard Thanks for reading once again; here's a shout out, an early one nonetheless, have a terrific start to the new year! Jesse Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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CableGuy's DoopyDoos (feat. T-Jay kit) ANH E-11 WIP
Dracotrooper replied to CableGuy's topic in ANH BlasTech E11
ah, so the fun continues Dan - excellent! Looking forward to your posts. -
Tom's DoopyDoos ANH E11 WIP
Dracotrooper replied to BaneLives85's topic in Build Threads Requireing Maintenance
A brand like 'PlastiKote' sure sounds like the right paint - good on ya! When I get to painting my exposed bolt, I will also go for the metallic nickel look. Looking forward to your next update with anticipation!! -
Tom's DoopyDoos ANH E11 WIP
Dracotrooper replied to BaneLives85's topic in Build Threads Requireing Maintenance
Glad you have Tino to shed light on the guards. It will still make for an excellent blaster, I have no doubt Keep up the fine work -
E-11 Doopydoos with Sound & Light building thread
Dracotrooper replied to Xinx's topic in ANH BlasTech E11
Brave craftsmanship here, glad to see it all worked out. Grateful for your post as I always wondered if the receiver would keep from braking on carving out the exposed bolt, now I know it's possible - cheers! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk