Dracotrooper

Hi Ardyjo - Best reference picture compilation is found on the fist post of the FISD E-11 Blaster Reference. Click here for easy access: PDF Document Photo Compendium See PDF for the section on the front sight block...

Superb work on your blaster, well done. Electronics to boot as well, always a nice touch to take it to that level. I am curious to know what rubberized undercoat paint you used for the T- tracks as it will be helpful for me when I get to that part of my doopy build. Also, if you don't mind sharing, the two part plastic epoxy used for the pistol grip. Cheers, and congrats once again!

Nice work Dan! I agree with Chris, the Humbrol paint is adhering nicely. You can see more reflective points and shadowy points now with this recent paint application. A rich color is coming out

Excited for you! Seeing primer on top of the resin / green stuff is long time coming. Great progress! I forget how you constructed the workable mag button - did you use a centre rod that needs to be replaced / added? Curious how the button came out. A relatively minor hangup

Superb modification - sounds nice and loud too [emoji1][emoji106]!

Interesting mod, yes, that folding stock looks quite hefty. I'm assuming the piece unfolds, this will be a nice feature

I can feel your excitement! - glad I can help you along your journey this way Dan haha, I will stay the course regarding my posts, thanks! Wow! You're really getting your Hengstler Counter to pop! With the hard edges incorporated; its looking nothing like the original, superb attention to detail

Just a few things I noticed friend to consider; please take with a grain of salt. Some mod possibilities: Extractor and Plunger addition, Mag clip addition, Hengstler Counter reset button, and removal of excess resin at the Hengstler socket grill. Also, soldering pins on the electrical connector block. Oh, and I see only three of the five scope screws installed.

Here are there hours of operation , hope that helps. Great that you're only half an hours drive away! Contact Us If you need to contact Doopy Doo's please email [email protected] between 10am - 5pm Mon - Fri. You can also call us on 07765993672 our lines are open from 10am - 3pm, Mon - Fri. or alternatively please write to DoopyDoo's Ltd 261 Brereton Avenue Cleethorpes North Lincolnshire DN35-7RA

Did Doopydoos neglect to send you your magazine Stefan? It's an undersized, shortened version but nonetheless, should be included in your kit. I didn't see it in your parts picture... Here's my parts picture - see that little magazine next to the magazine housing, curious I don't see yours.

Hi there stefan; it all depends on your personal build and design goals. If you're going for realism, it's the kit to purchase. Real screen accurate screws beat resin screws any day. Dan and I have certainly benefited from it. I totally agree and recommend T-Jay's set as well. There's nothing like it and well worth the investment. By the way, he's a really pleasant guy to deal with as well. Wish you all the best and look forward to your WIP, no matter what you decide

Thanks a bunch Dan! Hey thanks Tino! Again, how helpful the SMG reference have been Terrific to know, I'm on par with your estimations on the clip length. Yeah, I already had the anvil purchased for rivet installation. Totally, I'm in for a ride to see the clip work with other component parts. Nice heads up Brian, thanks! I didn't think that far, I have an episode of sanding coming my way

Glad I could inspire Dan. Terrific update as I was just contemplating on getting to the end cap next haha, not one bit surprised to see you tackle the resin engraving the way you did, great job!

Hello everyone! Today, I proceeded with the End Cap Clip. As Doopydoos comes with a static resin piece, I opted to mash together two separate sources. I used Suitecase Props T-piece along with Tino's aluminum u-channel from his completion set. Here is the original piece Here is the combo of the two separately sourced pieces. Here are some comparison pictures: I decided I wanted the u-channel a bit shorter so I took out my trusty Cobalt hacksaw blade and took off around 2mm. In my estimation, it now looked more proportional against the T-piece. I also rounded off the edges of the u-channel following SMG references (FISD E-11 Blaster Reference: PDF Document Photo Compendium) Here, I would then, following SMG references as well, imprint knurling patterns using green stuff to the bottom of the T-piece. Following, I would use a curved aluminum piece to lever the T-piece for press functionality. 1 /16 " drill bit used to create hole in aluminum piece and on T-piece. A nail was scavenged to get at its head for insert and keep the aluminum piece in place. Initial attempt using JB Weld was unsuccessful. Used Tino's powerful CA glue did the trick. This aluminum strip styled after SMG references as well. I then proceeded to create the two support holes for the pin. Piloted using 1 / 16 " then to 5 / 64 " for the actual hole size. Since I didn't not have a 5 / 64 " pin, I had to shave it down from the 1 / 8 " solid brass rod I had. I inserted the rod to my drill and held it up against my square file. For anyone attempting this, please use ear protection. I found it necessary to examine the filing process closely therefore, putting myself close to the drill motor. Done! I will proceed to add a bit of E-6000 to keep the pin in place. I had thinned out the pin a tad too much. Also, if I ever have to disassemble, I can heat it and get the pin out. Thanks for checking in once again! Have a terrific day!

Nice work Dan - Your power cylinders are looking great!

Hey there Freddy, I am yet another Doopydoos Full Resin Kit / T-jay Completion set guy. Looking forward to seeing your E-11 Blaster Build.

Great to know what's to come. I especially want to see how you go about the power cylinders - there's allot of mod that can be done here. Yeah, I'm in the same boat. I'm having a great time getting at the details as you are. Like you and others know, so rewarding to see the end results.

Looking good Dan! Your inner bolt strip is looking great so far; I have again been inspired by your advanced work, based on my local time Nice innovative work on the clearing strip, you've now shown that indeed, it clears the bolt window like a real sterling

Thanks for the pat on the back, I'll keep it going Yeah totally Brian on the guards - without looking at Tino's build thread, I wouldn't have realized. Rear sight bling also Tino inspired. What would we do without him!!

I tackled this on a previous post; feel free to take a look if you wish. Yes, I used pliers

Hello folks! I've made more progress on the blaster this past week. I've modified the flash guard and ejector port guard as well as the rear sight. The guards were thinned using a cylinder sanding drum on my dremel. Here are the before and after shots of the flash guard and the ejector port guard. After thinning them, I had their bottom part sanded flush against where they will be sitting by sanding them against the receiver tube. I now proceed to the rear sight. Here it is original. Lightly cleaned the 100 yard range using a 5 / 32 " drill bit. I then proceeded to sand away the excess resin. I finally have the rear sight sitting flush against the receiver tube. After sanding, it is very noticeable the difference when viewing the sight piece from the back and front. Here's a before and after picture of one end of the rear sight. The difference is pretty huge considering the piece came with excess resin to begin with. Rear sight sitting pretty good. I then proceeded to fashion the 5mm solid aluminum rod to act as the pin. I drilled through and countersunk it, then cut it to length to be a bit longer than the width of the rear sight walls. I got a hold of a 3mm diameter solid brass rod and did the same with that but didn't countersink but left hollow to insert a tiny brass rod later. Oh yeah, here are the dimensions of the rods. Here's a close up of the main pieces that make up my rear sight pin. Next, I would go and hollow out the resin rivets and do a test fit of my component pieces. Here are the component pieces glued using JB Weld. Here, you can see that I've revealed the crescent shape giving more definition to the rear sight. I'm happy to show that but if I were to follow exactly what they did on screen, I think I may have to screw in the scope rail over top of this detail. I also spent time sanding one end of the rear sight with a square file as there was excess resin there too. Finally, I have armature wire that will be used to secure these and other parts together. Not sure if it will be secure enough though. Few!! Quite a bit of work here; I need some rest but very happy how things have turned out. Again, thanks for dropping by - have a good day!

Hey there Dan! You have the general shape of the clearing strip that's for sure; although by my estimations, it seems a tad wide. Yeah, I know the feeling of that plastic not being flush against the inner bolt. Eventually I was able to pull it off. With my heat gun at high setting, I got the plastic malleable in seconds and moved quickly to push it up against the bolt to get the shape. Unfortunately, shaping does take time, which will provide dividends during the gluing stage. I say take your time with it, you still have plenty of plastic from the completion set for another go if you wish, my two cents, cheers!

Good on you Syahrin for following through having received your inspiration. Intrigued about Stardust "B" and already very familiar with link # 2. Nice video! thanks for sharing

Wow, my sentiment as well - having a blaster that has lights and sound, really takes it to the next level. After a ton of research on Arduino and related components, I concluded my skills with electronics were too limited so I opted for the 'ready to install' version. Went with a BlastFX from Paul - it will arrive shorty by mail soon, can't wait

It is my pleasure to put this resource together and thank you FISD E-11 Reference Team for the recognition. As I have benefited already, my hope is others will benefit from easily accessing Aaron's photos for reaching personal design and build goals.