Dracotrooper

Not sure if you came across this resource yet - it's the FISD E-11 Blaster Reference photo compendium of SMG parts. Click here to access the PDF. You can find it here: FISD E-11 BLASTER REFERENCE along with the Blaster Reference itself. See page 18: You can see how a real trigger looks like and design accordingly as you work to get it to fit just right; hope this helps some.

Great progress so far Tom! I'm one of those guys with the Doopydoos kit / Completion set as well. What an exciting journey you've embarked on. Glad to see Dan drop in even though he's finished his blaster. As for the trigger guard, my hope is the PDF Dan forwarded could provide you with some dimensions to work with, that is all. The shape and end can be made to how you want it. I can't speak from personal experience on the trigger group as I've not done the guard for my build yet. Your in good hands with Dan and Tino

Awesome! Congratulations on EIB approval!

Hi there Tim! Thanks for the encouragement; it's been allot of fun! haha, no worries, there's no end in sight, more fun in the coming months Still outstanding are big items like scope and power cylinders, THAT will be ALLOT of fun - next up is magazine housing

Thanks for creating / sharing the video - nice work!

As I rarely go beyond blaster build threads; pleasantly surprised to come across your post Tino - I also like your light weathering as Dan commented. cheers and all the best for approval!

Awesome Dan! - Congratulations on being 501st Approved! What an achievement! You look like you just stepped off the film set by the way With your 'hands like a surgeon' I'm not one bit surprised you've captured all the details you have. Glad to have journeyed with you in the building of your blaster;' great fun. Be sure to document your first troop as a 501st member by adding to the trooper log section of the site; see you there!

Hey Brian, thanks for dropping by. Magazine housing is next up; stay tuned I know! right? I was just rifling through my end cap pictures when I noticed the center mark and thought hey! I was fortunate enough to find it early.

Genius idea putting red cellophane over-top the display, nice!

Great updates Pawel. It's been extremely insightful to see how you've incorporated your electronics to the doopydoos resin kit. Notably, the install of the trigger switch and the selector switch has been very helpful for me to ponder on. The code is also helpful to understand the intricacies of the circuitry. Cheers! keep going and following

Will be interesting to see this part of the mod Mike. When I add electronics (BlastFX) on my doopydoos build, I will see how to keep the pulling of the charge handle functional. Will you be doing this as well, or even better, have the exposed bolt pull back along with the charge handle?

Wonderful to come across your post Pawl. I have always been fascinated with bringing in lights and sound to the E-11 blaster and had carried out heavy research on the matter. After spending countless hours researching arduino, basic knowledge of electronic circuitry, sourced components needed and tallied up costs etc., I ultimately decided to abandon any attempt for a scratch build due to my limited knowledge and skills, and quite frankly, courage! Congratulations on accomplishing this feat and look forward to your documentation on critical processes. Great write-up on the LED portion by the way Interested also to see how you incorporated the electronics to the doopydoos resin blaster.

Great to hear from you Tennant. Yeah, took it to extremes in hindsight - I reveled ALLOT on my end cap, couldn't believe I had nearly 30 plus collage photos on that mod lol Thanks also for the kind words I have to say, your finished blaster is painted beautifully and will see to replicate your fine work when the time comes

Jaw-dropping awesomeness! It looks like cool metal in most parts and the interplay of matt black and gloss black along with conservative amounts of weathering and use of silver has taken your blaster to the next level. Even with a few follow-up touches still needed, VERY impressive Dan. I don't have a trained eye but to me, it looks like the real deal not a resin copy; your attention to detail has truly paid off. I take it, you only have one or two more posts - spoil us with pictures!

Coming along nicely Dan. I had to keep myself from drooling haha, great work!

Thanks a bunch Bryn! Appreciate the thumbs up

See entry #13 from the FISD E-11 Blaster Reference on the Folding Stock. Take a look at Mod I, from this entry. There are some insights on how to attach a real folding stock to resin. Here's a quick link to it: #13 - The Folding Stock Hope that helps you along your way on your build.

Given the choices you have; I would lean to the blue snaggletooth one as well. A hengstler counter with metal component parts adds believable weight and realism. I vote for this one.

Thanks Mike

gotta love that green stuff Mike; it has come to save the day for me on many occasions. Like seeing your sound card fit so snug - that's sweet!

Totally right? haha Yeah, we're two of the same mind when it came to finding that center point and thanks for the pat on the back Thanks Tino!! Really appreciate the cheers!

As for your magazines, you can check out Robert's offerings, aka swpropman. He is on e-bay: NEW! Star Wars Stormtrooper E11 Blaster-1 1/2 Wave Hollow Magazine Replica-L2A3 and also from his website: The Stormtrooper Blaster Project I heard he's moving away from e-bay sales and prefers orders from his website, which I think leverages his ties with Etsy. He offers hollow, black plastic, replica magazines among other Blaster parts. I like it hollow as I plan to fit in electronics and plan to purchase from him sometime in the future. Hope this helps Stefan, another option for you, cheers!

Good afternoon folks! Today, I tackled the End Cap. In the onset, I thought this would be relatively simple to do but as I got going and checking with SMG references and deciding what I can do to better functionality. I ended up doing quite a bit. Original End Cap End Cap and Ring Holder with T-Jay D-Ring For comparision, here's T-Jay's D-Ring and the one that's made by Doopydoos. T-Jay's is far superior. Light cleaning of the small bottom hole of the end cap using 1 / 16 " drill bit. End cap sanded. Here, although the FISD E-11 Blaster Reference showed guide lines placed on the end cap top to mark the center, I chose to turn the cap upside down and use the center hole provided. I created pilot hole using 1 / 16 " drill bit to mark the center point for carving out the shallow recess for which the ring retainer base will sit. I precision measured the diameter of the underside of the ring holder recess. Will apply initially 7 / 8 " spade drill bit to carve out the ring retainer base. I would later progress to a 1 " spade drill bit to finish the job. In hindsight, I could have stuck to the smaller size, but it's nothing a little green stuff can't fix. Sanding of shallow recess Given the recess only needs to be one or two mm in depth, I opted for manual sanding - forget the dremel. I applied industrial velcro to my sandpaper and ring holder and went to work. I gone past the one to two mm mark so again, will need green stuff to save the day. I would use a square file to get at the recess more exactly. The top of the ring retainer base is now flush against the end cap but it really should be raised a mm or so to follow SMG references. Here are some test-fit images of the ring holder on the end cap. Now, I proceeded to filling green stuff to ring holder. This closes the opening so to drill out later for a snug fit of the ring later at installation. Adding green stuff to increase curvature where ring holder meets retainer base following SMG references Here is a before and after picture of adding curvature. Here I added more green stuff, this time to the ring retainer base! This will raise it to correct height when installed on shallow recess. After the green stuff has cured, I measured out the diameter of the ring (5 / 32 ")and chose a 11 / 64 " drill bit to make the hole. I then proceeded to cut a narrow slit so to prepare for the D-Ring installation Sliver Piece reinforced with CA glue Here's the sliver piece installed overtop with the D-Ring installed Now, I decided to reinforce where the sliver piece meets the ring by inserting a plastic U-channel. I cut a hollow plastic tube to the length of the ring holder and sliced it horizontally. Added heat to ensure for it's curvature as well. Then sanded down the sliver piece so to make room for the U-channel. Finally CA glued the two pieces, installed it with the D-Ring underneath, and closed any gaps with more, yes, more green stuff. At this stage of the mod, I noticed something. The end cap doesn't need to resemble a toilet lid! You know, here it is again... I see a toilet lid everytime now...I've gone and carved out that bottom portion of the End Cap following SMG references. Here is a close-up of it before and after sanding / forming. Finally, at the gluing stage. Used E-6000 and black tape to hold in place. Green stuff to close the gap between the retainer base and the end cap. Here are close-ups of the raised retainer base. I also noticed that the ring holder had some of it's hard edges smoothed out, following, you guessed it, SMG references. So I did that as well. Used a square file and finished up with light grit sandpaper. Here are close-ups of the sanding done...before and after pictures. Done! Quite enjoyable working out the End Cap. I am especially happy with rounding out the bottom portion of the cap - gotta get rid of that toilet lid look =) Cheers! Have a terrific day, Sunny out here in the Canadian Westcoast =)

Great! Thanks for that tid-bit of information, every little helps. I'll stick with E-6000 as I already have that. As I've gained momentum on researching paints, I've come to conclude as well that Rustoleum is a good brand. Now you've further confirmed it, cheers!

Glad I could be of some help there re: dovetail. ps, as you have it in the pictures, the pin needs to be rotated 90 degrees, with the pin slanting forward