Dracotrooper

Looking forward to seeing your WIP - now that it's arrived, don't keep us waiting too long ps. Invest in some safety gear - safety glasses, respirator, a dry vacuum is best, even a small desktop one will do fine, if you plan on doing any significant resin carving.

Superb work Chris! - I can imagine the feel of cold steel and smelly rust from your completed Blasters - bravo!

7.4V , that's double my ready-to-install BlastFX battery of choice at 3.7V I like this picture with all the wires because it shows how involved designing / configuring custom electronics can be. Great for you to figure things out!

Chris - did you put a plastic lens overtop so to focus the light? Thinking you were going for a laser effect out the muzzle ...

This could have been me! What a sad picture. I see that you were going for all-the-way through when it happened. When I went about this task, I stopped shy where the opening gets wider, glad I did. Great recovery though; excellent work! I have new vocabulary now ... 2mm plasticard

Man! Look at the mechanics involved here; kudos to you Chris! I can appreciate since finishing doing something similar with my trigger group

Hey Dan! Thanks for the thumbs up [emoji6] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi all, It's been quite the ride contemplating on the design / modification of my trigger group components, especially in light of getting ready to have BlastFX component parts installed. I ultimately decided on creating two-piece trigger housing cover made out of sheets of aluminum as this will give me freedom to carve into the housing to obtain positional and functional correctness. Having a removal cover also helps me maintain BlastFX component parts, like the trigger switch, as I hear from troopers that, that's a common part to replace as enthusiam during troops tend to bust this part bad. As for this modification update, I had finally modified my doopy trigger and created a custom spring piece to make the trigger operational. These are now installed and I am SO happy; sufficient trigger tension and position is good ( nowhere near touching the trigger guard) I had tried my best to make the trigger group like that of the real sterling machine gun. Although there are some scale and positional deviations, I am quite happy with the results.....check out my progress. Part of Trigger housing hollowed to make way for trigger and trigger axis pin installation Trigger housing hollowing for trigger assembly installation Aluminum sheet cut to left side of trigger housing cover Doopy trigger shaped with female tab using dremel Doopy trigger female tab cleaned using square file Trigger male end of tab cut to shape using hacksaw and hole drilled for trigger axis pin Test assembly of modified doopy trigger Replica SMG trigger versus modified doopy trigger Trigger addition glued to doopy trigger after installing support pin To further reinforce trigger pieces, it will be sandwiched between aluminium sheets cut to shape. E-6000 glue will be used to attach sheets. Where the trigger will contact the trigger plunger, an aluminum sheet is added to reduce friction at trigger pull Preminary attempts at replicating the trigger plunger E-6000 used for gluing aluminum sheets cut to shape to modified doopy trigger. Popsicle sticks used to evenly distribute pressure when clamping Mark 2 Electronics Install Plan on Grip Mock placement of trigger, trigger plunger and trigger switch on trigger housing Mock trigger component placement versus install plan Drilled out trigger axle pin in the housing for trigger installation Modified doopy trigger versus resin replica and real trigger Progression of doopy trigger modification Various angle views of modified doopy trigger Trigger pin hole created and an 8mm solid aluminum rod used as trigger pin - still need to cut to length With rod in place, measure position of trigger at throw and at resting position Trigger installed in housing with rod put through. Trigger at throw position; further carving needed to allow trigger to get to resting position Trigger in throw position, inside and outside housing, compared to schematic of real thing Custom trigger plunger options; weighing out pros and cons of each. Longer spring option needs to be shortened Trigger hole carved at the front to make room for trigger to be in rest position Trigger at rest position inside housing compared to SMG reference Estimate positioning and installed trigger at rest and throw positions Smaller trigger plunger option chosen to begin with and channel carved with Dremel tool 1/2 inch Chicago screw extension was cut for creating this trigger plunger head. It’s corners are filed to create bevel edge. Mock placement of it in channel Inserted custom trigger plunger in channel - force now applied against trigger piece. Custom trigger plunger head needed to be pushing the upper part of the trigger so a retainer cover was created from an aluminum sheet to keep the plunger from jumping out. Now there is sufficient rocking motion with adequate tension applied to trigger Trigger plunger head positions at trigger pull and rest position Trigger housing with modified trigger and custom trigger plunger installed - adequate trigger tension and positioning is obtained. Trigger does not touch trigger guard Trigger plunger installed - with and without retainer Trigger axle pin cut to length with cobalt hacksaw blade and lubricant to gather shards Trigger components now complete, shy of the trigger switch, which will come in later Three items checked off from trigger housing modification plan Well, that's it for now; thanks for reading once again! Have a terrific day and happy building! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wonderfully creative Mark! Big strides made on your counter; very nice look at the end, considering all the mods and the paint job. Later at the weathering stage, you may consider accenting the bracket (backend with the socket) with some ‘brass’ coloured chips, as this was its composition before the prop masters painted matte black over it.

First of many my friend - Happy for you! Do add to the trooper log [emoji6] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Absolutely, the trigger will be a well-worn part of the blaster; designing for maintenance around those inevitable tight trigger squeezes, for replacement etc. are smart moves. In reflecting on your pointers, I think I will do significant carving into the trigger housing and install a removable cover plate. This way, I can make sure alignment is there and access for future maintenance is there too. Oooh, important. Will install the trigger switch while the trigger is at maximum throw, point taken - thanks again.

Your power cylinder looks pristine! Interesting choice of back plate - profile E is not very common. Your blaster will stand out from the rest!

HI all, Here are some proof of concept pictures I have for the trigger components. I am really liking my custom trigger; after light sanding the aluminum, the rough edges are off and it feels pretty soft and the piece is sturdy. E-6000 worked great to adhere the metal, resin, and green stuff together. As for the trigger plunger, still want to tidy it up and deciding on how long to make its channel. I may have to pull the compression spring apart some to give the trigger some real pull action. Still brainstorming on how best to stabilize the trigger switch. Raymond (Blaster Master) pegs it, then hot glues it. Perhaps I can find tiny screws and do so that way? Nails? Thanks for reading although update only really a brainstorming session at best. If you have any ideas on how best to install / stabilize the various components, give me a shout, Have a terrific day!

It has already proved informative to check out the videos - fascinating to see how he installs the trigger switch, which is a much cleaner install than the method I thought of before. Decided to go about it this way (see graphic) Thanks again Lou.

Your logic for where to place the rumble motor makes sense; it can really add to the sensation of firing, especially when mode is set to long shot. I'm good for mounting shots; I managed to get a hold of the Blaster Master install manual from a TK here on FISD. I have an excellent picture now, thanks for offering!

This here is an extremely insightful install capture Lou - thanks for sharing! I hadn't thought of installing the trigger lever as shown. It is less invasive and easier installation that what I thought up. Also, the rumble motor installed there may very well suffice as I thought I would have to get it located at the center of the grip. Question: how much extra room or any will you be giving the rumble motor housing? Is the hole much wider than the motor or just a little; I'm curious to understand if giving the rumble motor a little or allot of room makes any difference. Thanks for sharing once again; you're build is coming along great, thanks for sharing.

Thanks Lou for the pointing me to these videos! - Definitely worth viewing to get familiar with the process involved. Interested to see how he deals with the rotary switch, thanks again.

I am seeking guidance from anyone whose prepared Tino’s rotary switch for installation. I am looking to install wires as well in case I want to get electronics going for it. How do I prepare the unit itself for install like where is the o ring that can or must be removed and also, how to understand what wires go where? Like positive and negative, I’m a bit of a dummy when it comes to electronics. Here is a build photo from Tino and how the underside of the switch looks like ... Thanks for reading; any direction is appreciated Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hmm, intriguing advances you've made in working with plexiglass; this can be a viable alternative to styrene plastic. I will keep eyes out when trying to find workable materials around the house. Thanks for sharing! Keep it going; you've got a great set of number templates, with heavy 3D effects to boot, nice!

Greetings fellow SW enthusiasts! This is my plan as I set out to install the electrical components of my build into the grip. There's a small handful of custom pieces like the trigger guard and trigger plunger and have modified the doopydoos trigger. Also will be using Tino's rotary switch that comes with his Completion Set. Although it would be neat and tidy to chop up the wiring of my already operational BlastFX to funnel wires and reconnect to minimize the amount of resin destruction, I chose to keep my wiring intact and will go about with some creative work with thin styrene plastic pieces and aluminum sheets. That's right, I am going to gut out channels and housing compartments and recess them as needed, then cover up with plastic then mold in with green stuff (pattern Knurling where necessary). I will then have two aluminum sheets, cut to shape of the trigger housing part and cover it as well as have the little odd shaped piece around the base area of the selector switch. Feeling a little apprehensive but with careful planning, I hope I can pull this off half decent. Cheers, and happy building!

Just to follow up with kwakermad on this point - see T-jays 2014 e-11 build thread as he’s accomplished this. He custom made a magazine clip out of aluminum. Tom is correct as 2mm thick aluminum is too hefty to replicate this small piece [emoji106] Here's a template created by SIMpixels back in 2012; just discovered this via link provided by Suspends WIP thread. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Superb! Nice paint job and weathering [emoji106] congratulations on getting to the finish line! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey there Wayne, Keep in mind when you do go about your build, hopefully in the near future, that if something should go wrong, you can always recover using 'green stuff'. You will have it as it comes with Tino's Completion Set you purchased. It's putty that sticks to the resin and dries hard. For example, while drilling my scope, I did it quite frantically and blew a large hole on a side wall. With a little green stuff and medium then fine sandpaper, all fixed. That being said, it is always a little nerve racking when you set out on a task not familiar with; but the build community is here to lend a helping hand; just start a WIP - 'work in progress' thread so we can keep up with you. cheers,

Incredible! The day has finally arrived - E-11 enthusiasts worldwide applaud!

Check these out Lou - they are the best out there.