Big Deal

Ok - Next question. I've looked at what's available already printed, ie Doopydoos and some stuff on Etsy. My main issue is that the doopydoos comes with the t tracks attached already as do others offered on Etsy. Since I want to do a Rogue One variant, I really need the t-tracks something I can add after and modify. So - can anyone recommend a good set of files that they have either used or have seen get used that turned out okay. I'd love to have the option to add electronics but right now just getting recommended files would be awesome. I went through the 3-d files threads but it sort of goes all over the place. I have found the Rogue One accurate scope and I can find the counter, but I need a good base blaster file. I hope to add the completion kit as appropriate as well.

I think the wording was meant to reflect that the Rogue One traps and tears aren't just painted on or stickers. They are built out from the armor and the vents are cut into them. You can paint them to match, black for the vents and grey, but they should look like they are their own piece, added to the armor.

Perfect. Thanks.

I'm still going through options as I try to decide if I can get to Centurion. Does anyone have any thoughts on the viability of a printed version of an E-11 being sturdy enough to hold a picatinny rail and flashlight? I attached a rail and light to a Hasbro and it seems to be fine, but i'm not sure about 3-D printed versions. I had looked into getting an Airsoft version, but shipping and regulations won't permit that as far as I can see right now. I'm also interested in adding lights and sound, and I'm not sure how easily an Airsoft would accept those.

Mine actually seemed a bit on the larger size.

It looks quite thick too. Almost as wide as the box.

Couple of questions. I'm slowly getting everything together. I'll probably be touching up painting details for a long time, but anyways. Right now the back half of the belt edges are right up against the final "ammo pouches" on the front of the belt. Can I shorten the back half of the belt? If I do should it meet right about where my hip bones are? I'm thinking the middle , but I wasn't sure.

That's pretty much the direction I was going, I was just worried that they attached to the belt a certain way and I was missing the info. Thanks!

Yeah it's not very clear, and a pretty small detail.

I'm more worried about where they attach to the belt. I wasn't sure if the strap should go from the drop box up to the front of the belt and maybe be covered by one of the ammo pouches, or if it is just attached to the back of the belt. For now I'm just going to attach them to the back side of the belt and if I have to move them or adjust the height, it's not a big deal.

I’m a little confused as to how the drop boxes should be attached and where. The control mentions black Velcro and that they’re aligned to the tabs. But should they attach to the back of the belt or the front under the above ammo pouch?

Thanks I messaged them. I had actually messaged them a while ago, when they had done some New Order blasters. At the time they weren't planning on any original Triology e-11s.

Yeah, that's what I'm looking at as well. It feels as though if I force it, there's enough flex to have it flush at both ends, but there would be a lot of stress, and I wasn't sure if it was nessecary.

Well this sucks. If hyperfirm is down too and MasterBlaster has retired. Thats a shame. I only have a modified Hasbro but hoped to get up to Centurion at some point.

Thanks - it looks like it should fit flush, but it's hard to find pics that show it sitting that way - or with the gap. BTW - how did your silicone shoulder straps work out?

Did you have to bend your vocoder at all to make it fit? Mine is snug at the top but the lower edge is about 5 mm away from the bottom of the helmet.

What all have you used on your blaster build so far? Where did you get the Airsoft from?

That's really good info. Thanks for sharing. My first reaction was that the ribbed material was the correct fabric, but you have pictures showing both, so who knows.

I would say that as long as the "closing side" is as close as possible to being invisible or seemless it shouldn't really matter. And since there seems to be flexibility issues with the fiberglass versions, I'm hoping to leave both seems of my shins and forearms "open".

Thanks. I'll leave as is for now. I still have a long way to go, but I was ready to drill it out and thought I had better check.

Can I get a confirmation on if this is an indent or drilled right through with the black of the undersuit visible. Here it looks like a through hole.

Two questions: 1. How did you attach the mouth mesh? 2. Are your chest and back supported by the shoulder straps or are they free floating and did you cut them back to fit?

I am still plugging away. I'm just nowhere near as efficient as you have been on this build. Thighs are resized, I've changed how my ab surround closed and have done a little filling to get ready for some primer on a few more parts. Slow, but stumbling along. I will add that although I always thought I'd do a shiney white Trooper, as I've primed and painted and sanded a few parts, the weathered and distressed look is pretty cool. I also think the slight grit of the Jedha troopers really helps all of the details to stand out.

Thanks. I think they'll be easier to fasten and work with if trimmed down. I just didn't want too trim them if they served some unseen purpose.

Speaking of the side plates, Is it okay to cut them back? I have enough to encircle me, but really only 5" or so are visible on each side.