TrooperTim

http://www.ehow.com/way_5552965_can-spray-paint-leather.html Seems like the color prep is just to clean and get any residues off what you're going to spray so the paint has something to hold onto. Use a little bit at a time and go over the boot. Maybe with a dauber or cotton ball. Vinyl/chemical gloves would be a good idea. Once the color prep stuff has dried then you paint it.

The answers you need are in the Tutorial and Tips and How To's sections. Continue exploring this forum. For example: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/12064-interior-strapping/ Strap setups are different for everyone; use what works best for you. Good luck and have fun!

I used NuLife to turn black jodhpur boots white. I painted them without prep. The finish looked good to me. I used them for several troops and didn't have to touch up. Eventually you'll probably need to, maybe with white shoe polish? I think that would work fine.

Any mistakes should be minimal. You'll have fun building this. Even more when you start wearing it. Brandon, his kit is T/MC.

Yes, those pencil marks are good. The CRL explains it. "A single male snap on the top right corner of the ab plate shall be present." ... The back side of the snap will be visible on the outside. This is only required for Centurion status, if that's something you're shooting for. Even if you're not, it's great that you're doing this. Look at other's pics in the centurion threads and keep reading the forums Oso.

Read the CRL. It says... http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/22350-a-few-measurement-questions You can also check this Centurion application thread for visual placement http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/22511-tk-21010-requesting-anh-stunt-centurion-status-ap73/ Search button is your friend!

Yep, looking good. The back canister grey looks too dark. Should be the same color you use for the helmet tear/back traps. I used Testors 1138. It's a good alternative to the Humbrol brand. Testor's dries fast too; humbrol is oil based.

Read through the tips and how to section. Lots of info there. Watch Jesse's Part 2 video towards the end: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/14283-how-to-make-thermal-detonator-belt-clips/ Angling them to the inside (red line) will help the clip grasp the belt.

I resized my thighs after my first troop. Minor adjustments throughout the year. After my first year of wearing it, everything got set - never an armor bite again. Realizing what you can and can't do wearing your armor is something you have to get used to. Oh yeah, I can pick that up... *snap *snap *snap. I dance all the time in my armor too. If a kid is afraid of you, bust a move. Sometimes they'll dance with you.

When in doubt, look at the reference gallery. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/image/2053-a-new-hope-knee-pack-placement-lfl-caleb-04/ I matched the middle ammo box to the center of my thigh. But yeah, it's a bit offcenter towards the inside. Use the long side to face the outside. Match it up to the outside facing back angled edge on the thigh, if what I just said makes sense. You can scroll down and check out this trooper's thighs too: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/20547-tk-3716-requesting-anh-stunt-centurion-status50ap/

But... but... we sound like legos! I love walking the dragon con parade. It's the sound of awesome.

You found a piece of the puzzle! Gloves, neck seal, undersuit, holster... lots of other things to gather while you wait for your kit.

Keep knocking these pieces out. It's coming together.

I wore pink beads with my TK a couple times. Polished it a few days later and got rid of it. See if Novus works first. You may have to wet sand with a high grit sandpaper - like automotive 1500 paper. Last resort, use a retr0brite paste. Sometimes using that paste in one area will make it whiter than the surrounding areas.

Yep, looking good Oso. I have skinny arms too and went to the mold ridge. Sanding down round screws? Huh. Well, whatever works for ya.

Thanks Vern. I didn't even think of brazing. I've heard of that but don't know much about it. I'll do some research. Again, great job on your project Rob and thanks for posting all this.

You have a tremendous amount of skill! I do have a question for ya. It seems like you had several parts welded together or used a 2 part epoxy. I've been having a crazy time figuring out how to attach original sterling parts to the galvanized steel pipe I drilled out. So far I've tried JB weld, Aves Fixit, and Loctite epoxy - but none provided a strong enough bond. I'd hate to have to go to a PVC pipe barrel because I want it all metal. I've considered either buying a Mig/Mag welder or contracting someone to do this, which has been incredibly difficult to find the right person for. And I know about the dangers with galvanized steel. Been following your thread for the past month and I'm close to being done with my E-11. You've given inspiration and motivation!

I'm clueless with electronics, so I don't know why would a 5v fan running on a 9v battery would provide weaker airflow? My stupidity tells me that having that much battery would give the fan potential to run at max power. From experience, running a 12v fan with a 9v battery only lasts for a few hours. I run my 12v squirrel fan using 8AA batteries that velcro to the chest. It usually lasts for around 12 hours. I personally don't find it too loud.

Tim Bell 3121 Centurion Letter These look nice.

Armor & Helmet: AP 5'9, 125 lbs, 30" waist I cut almost every part along the mold lines and it fits perfect.

I would suggest you attach the sniper plate with glue. It's more screen accurate that way. Make sure each side of the plate lines up with the shin. Sometimes you have to use a heat gun to slightly bend it into place. http://www.whitearmo...te-help-please/ I placed foam in the back of my thigh to keep the front flush with my leg and placed foam in the front of my shin to move the shin and sniper plate forward. Doing this, I've never had an issue with it going into my thigh. It doesn't matter what color the pipe is initially, you're going to paint it gray. EDIT: Canister is between 2â€(50mm) and 2.5" (64mm) in diameter. This thread has excellent posts that will answer other Thermal Detonator questions: http://www.whitearmo...ce/#entry249306 The search bar is your friend

I assisted my squadmate in converting his AM TK into a TKC. Handplates are ANH style, and those come with your kit. The CRL is a good guideline to follow - I use it as a checklist. Hang out in the TKC section of the forums and check out some build threads. Follow those that led the way before you. For EIB/Centurion edge trim is required. Mason recommended boat molding: http://www.whitearmo..._40#entry175302

Great job and congratulations! The only other thing I would comment on is the space between the ab buttons and bottom of chest. How are you shoulder straps attached? JB Weld/E6000? If you're able to, move the chest lower by gluing the straps higher up on the chest's top slats (for lack of a better term). It looks like there's maybe 1.5 inches to work with. I don't know if that would affect EIB, but it's something that might be mentioned when you submit.

I'm glad to hear you're thinking about going EIB/Centurion with your ROTJ. There currently aren't too many who have achieved that. It doesn't seem like length is an issue with EIB/Centurion based on the CRLs, and I agree with what Mathias said. I would say have the holster go at least the length of the thigh piece. This shows they have long straps http://www.whitearmo...re-51jpg/large/ This shows the holster being close to the length of the thigh. Well, I think they're holsters and not shadows... http://www.whitearmo...re-22jpg/large/

You could trim more return off the butt plate if you wanted. For the chest, I'd say remove the return from the neck and top of the shoulder (where the strap plate will go). Keep the return at the bottom of the chest. The return where your ams will be located you can remove, keep as is, or make it smaller. I do have returns around that arm area and have small cracks. They started about 2 years into wearing it.