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TK_LEPER

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Everything posted by TK_LEPER

  1. Building this helmet for a friend out of State. Thought I would share the progress for both of you to enjoy. This is the ABS version, the 1st ATA that Ive worked with in this material. Overall a great looking kit, and you really can't beat the price. Nice work T! Kit showed up today at work. Parts included Surprised to find two sets of ears Fairly accurate brow trim Kinda funky lookin' S-Trim Face-shield like material for the lenses Hardware, etc. Tips are very nice, but seem a bit too large The infamous ATA cap n Back logo Marking areas for trimming Some plastic weird stuff going on here Test fit after a bit 'o' trimming
  2. can you just use some black electrical tape to hold it together until you can replace it?
  3. Here's a few tips for using spray paints. 1. Always sand the plastic, it gives the paint/primer something to hold onto. 2. Always use primer. Rustoleum makes a great plastic primer. Even when giving my paint jobs a second coat days later I use this stuff. It works! 3. Warm up your cans in hot water before use. Shaking alone is ok, but this little trick helps the paint flow a lot better. Giving you a more consistent paint job. 4. Shake the can for at least a minute before using. And keep shaking during breaks. 5. Avoid the old fashion spray tips. Rustoleum has a new design that doesn't clog or spatter like the old spray tips did. 6. Avoid painting on wet, hot or humid days. The moisture can get trapped in there and screw up your paint. Wait till it's a bit cooler and dryer outside. 7. Use a series of lighter coats, starting with the primer. You only need a light dusting of primer, give it 15 minutes to cure. Then light coats of spray paint 4-5 minutes apart. 8. keep the can about 10-12" from the surface. You will be less likely to get paint runs and drips it you stay back further. 9. Don't spray Paint when it's windy out. You'll waste your half you paint to the wind, and you'll only have a partially done paint job. 10. Don't mix your brands. If your using a Rustoleum Primer, stick to the same brand of paint. That's about it. I hope it helps. And remember, if you do get flaws... you can always let it dry, sand it, and re paint it. Wet sandpaper is your friend! Good luck! -----------
  4. Option 1 looks about right to me. --------
  5. Auto body filler works really well, or some J&B Weld. Ideally the auto body filler would be best. You want something equally or softer than the resin. So when you sand it you sand the filler down first.
  6. I would open the eyes up just a bit more, maybe 1/8" or so ... Teeth holes should be a bit more square.
  7. I found mine at Walmart ... they're spot on! Not sure what the brand name is though.
  8. It doesn't even look like a AP recast.
  9. I have lots of screen accurate snaps if interested? J
  10. why is the trigger not painted black? just curious. J
  11. Buy a new suit ... casting and mold material are very expensive. Plus you would need a large vacuum forming box. Be cheaper just to get a new suit. Sorry bud. Don't be afraid to ask us what you should get before you buy. Good luck! J
  12. I sent propass a message ... c'mon dude, really!? Dear jjmcclear248, Right, Thanks. The inside Nipple is painted white. Other than that, I don't see any difference. - propsplus From: jjmcclear248 To: propsplus Subject: jjmcclear248 has sent a question about item #251028546673, ending on Apr-01-12 13:46:40 PDT - Star Wars Stormtrooper Helmet HOVI-Mix Pa2 Mic Tips - *Complete* 1:1 Sent Date: Mar-27-12 18:11:37 PDT Dear propsplus, Those don't look like the originals, the inside in particular. There's a photo of an actual set on the EFX website. .
  13. I don't usually work with the dremmel until I get closer to the end. Just take a utility knife and run it lightly along you're cut lines... It should snap right off after scoring it. Leaves nice clean lines, and will only require a bit of sanding to finish it off. Also, put the brow trim on (during assembly) to make sure you get a good fit. I wouldn't trim anything else until you get the ears going. Once you have those lined up, you can just mark what needs further trimming. Good luck! P.S. If it helps any? Here are some of my images from my SiMan Helmet, and a VT Helmet build.
  14. Ordering thread is now up guys! Just click the Detonator link in my signature. J
  15. You can send it back and exchange it if you want bro? J
  16. In response to your subject title... Yeah, your'e never done. It just keeps going. Good luck with your build! J
  17. Thanks! I plan on doing a large run this weekend. Expect to see an order thread VERY soon! Jesse
  18. Well.... Even though the pipe is a lot cheaper, as were the PVC sheets... I'm actually spending a ton more on the shipping (coming from overseas) ... But I'm still offering these at a little bit cheaper than before. Anyhow, here's those price estimates. Opt 1: ABS pipe, Control panel, End caps - $45 Opt 2: ABS pipe, Control panel, End caps, 1" Clips, Hardware - $70 Opt 3: ABS pipe, Control panel, End caps, 1.25" Clips, Hardware - $75 Opt 4: Fully assembled kit (1" clips) - $100 Opt 5: Fully assembled kit (1.25" clips) - $105
  19. Thanks guys! I may have heated the plastic too much on that test pull, so it turned out really sharp. Would like to have seen it a little softer, more like the originals... PVC is a LOT harder to cut than ABS or HIPS, kind of crazy... pretty much have to belt sand all the parts or use a dremmell to cut the extra off. I would score it, and it was so tough... I couldn't get it to snap, even after scoring it. Eventually I would like to move on to glossy ABS sheets though... This stuff stinks the whole house up. PLus the original suits were ABS ... But I paid a ton for this stuff and would like to at least make my money back ... At least on what I have in stock (enough for 20 + kits). I expect to start making these in about a week or so (from now)... I have to crunch some numbers, figure out my cost per kit, plus time spent making the kits, etc. But I should have some numbers in the next day or so. Thanks for your patronage! J
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