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TK_LEPER

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Everything posted by TK_LEPER

  1. Did a qick Google, and found this link. ---------- First you will need to download the Templates needed for this project. ANH Blastech E-11 Templates File size: 2,377 KB Optional 1.5 Barrel Templates File size: 492 KB
  2. Drill press my friend... That and a good press clamp. Take your time, measure and mark your holes first. It will look great. "He will learn patience!" Jess
  3. I used Plumber's Putty. It's not as brittle as FIMO. Actually it turns rock hard, and you can drill it, sand it, paint it. Cool stuff. You can get it at Home Depot, Lowes, etc.
  4. That stuff sounds like plumbers putty. You can get it at any hardware store. Bondo is easiest to work with (sticks to high Hell), but it sands easy. I would use that, especially if you are going to paint it. Then the filler's color isn't an issue.
  5. Seemed smaller to me. I had the EFX though.
  6. Finished building my vacuum forming deal (last night). Now it's time to make my end cap models

  7. Purchased a metal bender for making clips. Hoping it will make the whole process a little bit quicker. Right now it takes at least an hour to produce one set, and often more.

  8. Just make sure you order white sheets (called White Styrene) and not the grey sheets instead (called ABS).
  9. Contemplating my own line of (movie accurate) TD end caps.

  10. TD Clips MKIII, now in production! :)

  11. Hey!

    Just wanted to thank everyone for their support. I'm so glad you liked the TD clips.

    Best Regards,

    Jess

  12. This process works very well! I used some on my AP ANH armor. I had to repair all the edges, after ironing them (to give some thickness to it). The edges looked pretty gnarly after, melted and cracked. So I applied the ABS paste on and around the edges, filled in all the cracks. Now I have more to work with when sanding it down. Be very careful using it on thinner parts of your armor though. As it will melt through the stuff, and warp the surface. I had that very situation happen with my AP ANH helmet. Now I have to fix that too! So be careful, and don't make it too thin. That means you used too much acetone. Jess
  13. Yes, It works great! I just did the same thing with my AP ANH armor, by repairing the edges, after ironing them (to give some thickness to it). The edges looked pretty gnarly after ironing them, melted and cracked. So I applied the ABS paste on and around the edges, filled in all the cracks. So I had more to work with, when sanding it down. But be careful using it on thinner parts of your armor, as it will melt through the stuff, and warp the surface. I had that very situation with my helmet. Now I have to fix that! Probably with some bondo, then sand, and repaint the thing. What a pain! Jess
  14. YES!! keep the gaps!. It looks great, don't change a thing. Here's mine: http://www.flickr.com/photos/jjmcclear/4357913357/in/set-72157619599348114/ Looking good though! Jess
  15. Found a source online. Thought I would share with you. Their sheets are small, but good for tabs, etc. I've heard that the Plastic Weld was good stuff too, so... ----- Jess
  16. No. I don't know if "they" would be cool with that. They would probably consider parts of your armor to be questionable. Sharp edges and things of that nature. But that's just my opinion. --------- nice case. but expensive. Jess
  17. Pelican makes real good waterproof cases, with the option of the pluck and pull foam interior. They costs a little more but worth every penny in my opinion. Some even have a built-in handles, with wheels. I use one for all my photo gear, when traveling.
  18. Do you run fans? No? Which Hovi do you use? Regular Hovi Mic Tips? Yes? Hovi with the mini speakers built in? No? Is your Brow and neck trim accurate? Yes?
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