justjoseph63

I thought so, but just wanted to check. Drumroll please................ https://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/31701-centurion.png

Congrats, Alex! Before I issue your certificate, I noticed that you asked the A4 size. I'm happy to oblige, but that format is normally requested by those outside the U.S. (you may have issues printing it) and for your E.I. cert you requested/received the Letter size. Please let me know your preference and I'll get that done for ya'. Thanks!

Hi Markus, and welcome to the FISD! To better help you identify the maker of this armor, can you post up a few close-up photos for us? I could also be an old set of AM with that 3 piece bucket 1. Ears 2. Face plate 3. Ab mid-section (including button plates) 4. Thermal detonator The helmet decals look to have a blue(ish) shade similar to ESB, but they could have faded. A close-up of those would help as well. We are here to answer any and all questions (no matter how many), so always feel free to ask about anything!

As Glen mentioned, as long as the posts are long enough to fit through all the layers this is an EXCELLENT idea, Tim! (I am SO going to steal it, lol).

I built my first set of armor using single snaps at each connection. On my very first troop, both shoulder bells and 2 torso snaps came apart (ending it after only 15 minutes). Did I just not pay attention to flexibility issues? Perhaps, but a fellow Garrison mate turned me on to the double snap method. I (painstakingly) removed all the single ones and replaced them with doubles and have used that on each set of armor I have built. Extra time, cost and effort? You bet, but even after countless troops since, there have been no "wardrobe malfunctions". As for keeping it in better alignment, absolutely. A single snap connection can slide left or right. Using two at each point will effectively eliminate that. "The reason for asking is that I’ve seen some troopers using single snaps and thinking this alternative would be less fiddly when kitting up". It takes less minute in total to secure the additional snaps, and is well worth that extra 60 seconds. Trust me.

"I've already figured out I need to add about 2" per side with shims (I thought I was thin!)". You will need to trim all the return edges off of the sides, Kyle. Make sure they are straight, so that they meet up, and the shims are only used to extend the kidney, not the ab. Here are some photos where Jose @TK 71627 used shims with his WTF armor. For EIB there is no need to repair (cover) the split as seen below... BUT, for Centurion (which I hope you are aiming for) the repaired shim seam must be not be seen. Jose did a really nice job effectively covering these up with ABS paste and some work. Note how in addition to the shim itself there is an additional piece of ABS inside for strength. Keep those photos and questions coming!

Looking GREAT!

Welcome to the FISD, Paolo! As you have probably realized, there is a LOT of research and many decisions to make. The differences between Stunt and Hero are pretty minimal, but even with your height either are fine (Mark Hamill was only 5' 9" but Harrison Ford was 6' 1"). The most important thing after choosing your costume is deciding which armorer to go with. I would avoid ebay or the like (see this link) and stick with one of our "vetted" (tried and true) vendors which you can find here. It Lastly, know that we are here to help every step of the way on your journey to become a white plastic spaceman, lol. Always feel free to ask as many questions as you like, and we look forward to answering them!

In looking back at this pic I'm glad to see that this was your index finger, lol.

As long as the 4 button plate color matches the 5 button plate I think you should be good to go, Tim. Fantastic job on trimming the large one, and EXCELLENT paint work! Before attaching the small plate that you will eventually be using I would suggest trimming it down (note how the raised area below it can be seen on all 4 sides in the reference pics). The corners should be fairly sharp just as you did on the large one. Reference images Keep up with this level of detail and I see a Centurion badge in your future!

Welcome to the FISD, Christian, and SUPER nice set of armor there! I'm sure you can't wait to get out there and show it off, and it looks like you should have an easy path to make it to Expert Infantry approval (and perhaps Centurion) level if you choose to do so (wink wink, nudge nudge) .

Can you post up a photo or two showing them side by side with your ab plate?

There are many options for interior strapping, and it all comes down to preference as it will not affect approval at any level. Some prefer the bracket system and have been happy with it, but as Glen mentioned there can be issues. The ABS used for a normal set of armor is pretty thin, and although ours doesn't normally go through the rigors of those used on screen (thus the word "stunt") the bracket mounts can pull through the over time. Note in the screen used example below where the screws pulled through the return edge (blue arrows) and had to be re-mounted by the prop crew on the rear using washers. Not pretty, but effective for filming purposes. Not so attractive up close. Some have trooped for years using this method for years with no issues. If you do decide to go this route I would suggest cutting some flat shims from your scrap ABS and gluing them in under the return edges in the areas where the brackets will go for added strength. An alternative would be to mount the screws only (for that classic strapping look) and use the nylon/elastic straps to actually hold the pieced in place. It's a little extra work, but you get the best of both worlds. Note in the above pics from Glen and Kyle that they used the double snap method. Some folks have had success with using one at each join, but a single snap is much more likely to come undone. Having two will help ensure you won't have any "wardrobe malfunctions" during a troop. It's extra work and cost, but for peace of mind it's well worth it IMO. Here is another example:

Are you doing the "classic" strapping system (screws/brackets) on the torso pieces or elastic/nylon/snaps?

You will be more than pleased with Imperial Boots but they tend to run a bit on the small side, so I would suggest ordering at least half a size larger than what you normally wear. This leaves room for cushioned insoles (also suggested) . Since they are leather, I keep adjustable wooden shoe stretchers inside mine when not in use. Side note: I would leave the lower leg (calf) pieces until you get your boots... that way you can wear them during the fitting/sizing to ensure you leave enough room.

For the Hero version only 6 cut-outs are allowed, so what you have now is perfect! I would suggest removing the rest of the edges on the insides (blue arrows) . As Glen mentioned, the paint should not go all the way to the gum line as seen in the reference pics below.

This... looks... GREAT, Mark! Super nice job the trimming, and it looks like you are getting quite proficient in working with ABS . Keep this up and your armor is gonna' turn out spectacular! I'm probably jumping the gun here as you have probably figured it out, but if I could make 2 quick suggestions they would be: 1. Not really a huge thing for the biceps, but if you have scrap ABS I would consider adding interior cover strips. This adds extra strength on the seams, and it doesn't need to look pretty, lol, as no one sees the inside. It doesn't need to be actual ABS... any thick (preferably white) plastic will do nicely. Even if you choose not to do it on the forearms, biceps or thigh pieces, I HIGHLY suggest doing it on the inside fronts of the calf pieces. The reason being is that those get a lot of wear and tear from being opened up over and over when putting them on, and any additional support will help. Trust me. 2. Again, I'm sure you have realized it but using some (200 grit or above) sandpaper on the edges (yellow arrow) will prevent them from snagging on or wearing a hole in your undersuit. Excellent start on this build, sir, and with this level of dedication I hope to see an application for Expert infantry in your future!

It's a little hard to tell how snug it fits on the sides, but overall it looks fine. I prefer mine to sit on the higher side (as yours does) since I normally don't wear a balaclava and it helps prevent showing any skin. Having a little extra room is nice as well.. if it's too tight it can get a little uncomfortable when you start to sweat. Helmet fans can help move some air into those gaps. Note how some sat higher (yellow arrows) and some sat lower (blue arrow).

AM lot of it will depend on how thick your arms are... on the front there should be at least a small amount of the raised ridge under the cover strips. The rear can also have as much as you need, but some troopers need to remove all the raised ridge in the back completely. Here are some pics from WTF builds showing the rear and forearm tops that may help. Note that it's fine to have some return edge on the tops (some people like the way it makes the armor look thicker) but in fact there was little to none on most troopers seen in ANH.

Looks great, Bryan! Since you are headed for Centurion () keep in mind when it comes time to paint the buttons that it should not extend all the way to the bottom of the raised part (note the gaps in the screen used reference).

Excellent job on trimming those forearm openings! Although not a requirement for Basic or even Expert Infantry approval, 100% of the return edges will need to be removed if you and the wife are (hopefully ) headed for Centurion. Looks like you are right where you need to be (or very close)! Remember when sizing that the forearms should have a taper toward the wrist. The opening should be large enough to accommodate your wrist (and glove of course), but not too wide. A good rule of thumb I use is that you should be able to fit 3 or 4 fingers between the forearm piece and glove***. *** It helps to wear the glove(s) when sizing.

Filling in those areas will be a bit of work, Alex, but it's not nearly as hard as you think. What I suggest is to sand down the areas (shown by Mario) and using Bondo Glazing /Spot putty. This is miracle stuff. Unlike regular Bondo which requires mixing, it is a paste that you can simply apply with your fingers or a craft stick. It fills fine to medium lines like magic, dries hard in less than 20-30 minutes or less and is SUPER easy to sand! Just don't go too heavy. I build a lot of resin/3D items and would not do one without it. A couple of coats of paint after final sanding and you will be golden!

A really nice start to your build thread, Mark! As I mention in the tutorial that Glen linked to, I suggest removing the area shown below. The reason being is that while "on patrol" at a troop we spend most of the time with our arms bent carrying our E-11. If the opening is too tight this can lead to that return edge cutting into your arm after a while ("armor bite"). Eliminating that edge and sanding it smooth will help... trust me. Note in the photo showing the screen used bicep that the top of the forearm has also been trimmed smooth (for the same reason as above). It's all about comfort.. You can also remove the return edge at the top as this area is covered by the shoulder bell. While some troopers have no issues with a small amount of return edge in this area, it's often difficult to tell until it's too late. If you decide to trim it it's best to do it before final fitting/gluing. If trimmed after the fact it can make the opening too large, which may result in having to take the pieces apart, trim and re-glue. Not a fun task. Keep the questions and photos rolling in, and when in doubt, always ask for advice before forging ahead. We are here to help every step of the way!

Suiting up can be a challenge until you get a routine down, but there is a fantastic tutorial here. Not sure what you mean by "tusk shells". The Hovi tips? The Hovi tips Dave normally supplies are cast aluminum, but if you had speakers installed inside he may have used plastic ones. Some close-up photos would help determine how to remedy this. Posting some pics of the belt placement would help as well.