justjoseph63

NICE work, Gerald!

Welcome to the boards, Mathew! Once you have decided on which TK costume you would like, then it's time to select an armorer. I'd advise steering clear of ebay and the like and go with one of our "vetted" sellers (link here). Many if not most of those found on online sites may seem like a good deal, but end up being poor quality and not 501st Legion approvable. When in doubt, ask us! Be aware that most of our vetted sellers do not make the kits for a living, but as a sideline. Wait times can range from a few weeks to a month or more, but that is actually a good thing! While waiting for BBB (Big Brown Box) day you can research the build threads here for your particular costume, ask LOTS of questions and get your build supplies in order. That way once your kit shows up you can get started right away. Never be shy about asking questions.. as many as you like. We have an entire Detachment here with lots of great folks who are ready to help at every step.

Welcome to the forums, Kira! You are in the right place for all things TK related, and you have been given some great advice by the previous posters. As mentioned, you first have to decide which one you want to be, as we have 20 to choose from (link here for details). Another thing to consider is who you purchase from. We have a list here of our "vetted" (tried and true) sellers, and a few of them do commission builds. Steer clear of sellers on ebay or the like, as the vast majority are inferior and not 501st approvable. When in doubt, ask us! Once you have chosen your character, we can assist with everything else. Always, always feel free to ask as many questions as you like. We are here to help every step of the way (it's what we do best)!

Welcome to the FISD, Erick! Lots to research to do while you "hurry up and wait" for your WTF kit, so feel free to dive right in. We have a LOT of info. available here and sometimes it can seem a bit confusing, but always feel free to ask as many questions as you like... we are here to help every step of the way. If I could offer some advice it would be: 1. Take.... your....time, and don't rush your build. Trust me. 2. The link to the list that Glen supplied will help immensely, but again, ask us if you need help. It's what we do best! 3. While you wait for your WTF kit, get your supplies in order. I have a thread here which will help. Having things at the ready will make life easier. 4. Once you get your kit, start a build thread and post LOTS of pics. Posting photos is really important, especially when you have an issue. This thread will help. 5. Know that we are here for you! Looking forward to seeing your white armor journey!

Yeah, didn't realize that until I got a text right after from Dave re: the rivets and such.

You read my mind, Tino. Like yourself, Glen, Sergiu and others I have studied countless screen caps and official references of E-11s. Those T-tracks are not original. Period. Close, but no cigar. The "metal" weathering and ends (as you mentioned) are custom made and do not bend into the holes in the shroud. Correct me if I'm wrong, but has anyone else seen the T-tracks on each side of the bayonet lug? I certainly haven't. Not sure how they can claim that the only replacement is the scope rail. They should realize how many of us S.W. weapons nerds will notice.

Yeah, I would definitely leave some of the return edges on the tops of the shins, Dale. One thing I would HIGHLY suggest is to add a cover strip inside each of the front seam of the shins. It doesn't have to be pretty (no one sees it) and you can use scraps from your build to do this. The reason for this is that that those seams get a lot of wear and tear from being opened/closed when suiting up. Looking great so far... keep up the nice work and keep those questions (and pics) rolling in!

How did I know that was coming, LOL.

My first kit was an ebay purchase from M.O.T. before I knew about the 501st/FISD. Horrible armor, and the bucket is HUGE. I ended up building it for the experience (while waiting on my AM kit) and ended up selling it on ebay for a small profit.

As mentioned, your armor pieces are held together via a strapping system and are not attached to the undersuit. The late great Daniel (TK 42911) has a fantastic video (link here) which shows the full process. As for the smelly factor, I keep a stash of sanitizing wipes in my armor bin, and I wipe down the inside of each piece before placing it back in. The undersuit can (and should) be washed after each use.

Overall a really nice job on this build, Steve! With a few tweaks here and there I can certainly see this armor at Centurion level for sure. If I may add to what Glen mentioned, it would be: As per the CRL, the paint on the teeth should be dialed back a bit. Yes, before anyone mentions it there were certain ESB buckets where the paint extends a bit farther, but for higher levels (which I hope you will be aiming for) it's better to stick to what is written in the CRL. Some non-acteone paint remover and a few toothpicks should clean them up nicely/ Your right shoulder bell connection is spot-on... touching the shoulder bridge. However, the left side should be the same. Shortening the strap will take care of this. Looks like you are missing a few rivets on the ab plate, and the existing ones will need a few coats of white paint. Although not a requirement for Basic, I would suggest bringing your drop boxes out a bit. The outside edge should line up the end of the ABS belt. I can tell that you put a lot of time and thought into this build, Steve, and it shows! An afternoon of refining a few details and you will be golden. Once you are approved, I expect to see your application for Expert Infantry and then Centurion!

I think it looks phenomenal, Tristan. No trace of the glue residue, and those lines are super sharp! Glen @gmrhodes13 has a post (link here) in my imgur tutorial which may help if you are using a smart phone. You may want to reach out to him for more help if needed.

Looks like you are getting the image into your imgur library ok, but are you using the Direct Link to post it? I have posted an edited version of it below, and that came out GREAT, Tristan! Nice thinking outside the box!

Nothing quite like opening up a big box of fresh plastic! Looking forward to your build, sir!

What you have there should be just fine and dandy, Tim. Just cut the corners as seen below and you are golden. When you get around to the screw covers, I highly suggest trimming off ALL the return edges. The sides should lay flat against the ABS belt with no raised edges.

Do you have a link to the site that you ordered it from? Seeing some photos would help determine whether it would pass at Centurion. I have seen a few different versions of the Airsoft, but you should compare them by vendor. One I looked at ($350.00, below) has a few discrepancies- most of which can be rectified, though. Bear in mind that I am a bit of a weapons accuracy snob, so take this for what it's worth. 1. Back half of the Hengstler is missing 2. Bottom of grip is more squared than rounded. Not the biggest of deals by far. 3. Screw attachment is rounded on the left side and recessed. Again, not a deal breaker IMO. 4. Spiral wire was used for promo blasters, not those seen onscreen. (Some folks like em' but I've never been a fan). T-tracks are too short and need to cover all the holes. A replica Hengstler counter and T-tracks can be purchased of course, but for that price I would look elsewhere, but that's just me. I can appreciate the fact that you don't want a 3D printed version, but I once trooped with a friend's full metal version and my arms were worn out after a few hours, and I can't even imagine trying to wear it in a holster.. too heavy. An alternate would be one from Questdesign. IMO the best manufactured replica available. Not the cheapest (about $200.) but certainly the most accurate. Made of cast resin, they have a bit of heft but not too much.

Have you glued down the straps (yellow arrows), Chris? If not, you may have to make new ones with holes a little closer. Even though you used nylon, it still has a bit of wiggle room unless it's glued down on both sides. I think this may be what is causing the larger gap (second pic). When you get to the point you can wear your canvas belt, you can use it to tighten up that gap, but sometimes it only eliminates it toward the bottom and opens the top up even more. If you are just going for Basic or even Expert Infantry approval, that larger gap is not the biggest of deals, but if you are (hopefully ) aiming for Centurion it will need to have no gap.

Good news/bad news, Sean. The ones I just looked at on Amazon should be fine for Basic 501st approval, but not for higher levels because of the seam on the front. Also, all the ones I looked at are made from faux leather. These would be fine for occasional trooping of course, but not being leather they don't "breathe" and can get mighty hot (especially here in FL.) One set I noticed on there runs about $83.00. For a little extra money you can get a pair of leather ones from Keeptrooping (link here) which are the ones most of us here use. High quality, built to last (mine have lasted 7 years and still going strong) and approvable at all levels. If you decide to go with them, be aware that they only make them in "waves", and the next one starts on Sept. 8th. Also, they tend to run a bit small, so order at size larger than you normally wear. Hope this helps!

A wise choice... trust me!

I'm thinking of building one for my HWT, Glen. I like the idea of the foam, but do you have any pics of your mannequin(s) without armor to show how you did this? Thanks!!

The ones that Mario provided the link for (KeepTrooping) are pretty much the "go-to" boots for most troopers here. They are well made and will pass at all levels of approval. BUT, they only make them in "waves", so you would have to wait until Sept. 8th to order them (well worth it, though). One other thing about them is that they tend to run a bit small, so be sure to order a half or even full size larger than you normally wear.

It's (sorry to say) more like 2:00 am., but I am more than happy to give you a wake-up call so that we can chat in real time. Just PM me your phone #.

OK all you awesome white armor types, I am officially back, and so DANGED happy to say that! As a few of you may know, I went through some health and personal issues over the last few months which has precluded me from being around, but thanks to lots of physical therapy and just plain refusing to give up I am back in the saddle and ready to take on the world! Although I won't be able to wear the HWT pack any longer I should be able to suit up in my regular armor within a few weeks. That being said, I signed up for a troop in Nov. so that gives me a goal to get my Stunt polished up so I can get back to putting some smiles on some faces and meet some of more of my new Squad members! My apologies for not getting back to you (yet) if you have PM'd me. I have a lot of catching up to do, so thanks for your patience! Also, a big THANKS to all those (especially Andrew, Paul, Mario, Chemi and Caleb) who went above and beyond. Now that things are back to normal I will be here 7 days a week as I have for 7 years until this setback. Please feel free to hit me up with any questions about armor or builds or just say hello. I love you guys and gals of the FISD... my second family. It's good to be back home here.

Thanks for submitting for Expert Infantry, Manvi! Before the D.O.s get here, just a couple of things that you might want to address: Helmet: 1. Your tube stripes are sitting pretty far away from the "cheek" and will probably need to be moved up. As per the CRL, Ideally, the tube stripes are positioned approximately a pencil width from the side of the cheek. You may want to make them a bit shorter as well... The screens on your Hovi tips are sticking out past the rims and need to be inside the rims with no edges of the screens showing. Your boots seem to be really well made, but unfortunately the soles appear to be textured/ribbed. As stated in the CRL they must have a flat sole as seen in the screen used photo reference.