justjoseph63

Thank you for your submission, Corey! One of us will be with you soon.

Hi Fernando, and thank you for your submission! One of us will be with you shortly.

Thank you for your submission, Luis! One of us will be with you shortly. While you are waiting, it may be the photo, but it looks as if the paint has been pretty severely scratched on your left cheek trap. Could you post up a new pic of this, as well as one of close-up, clear side view of the inside of your sniper knee plate connection? Thanks!!

Those may work for basic approval, Caleb, but the elastic opening on the side should have a U-shape, and those look to have a tear-drop shape. Your GML will be the one to make that call, but the U shape (as seen in the photo I posted earlier) would be required for higher levels. They correct ones are out there, it may just take some more searching. I would also look for ones that are a bit taller. The reason being is so that the tops won't slip out from underneath your calf armor bottoms quite so easily.

Excellent suggestion, Wibowo. Otherwise you would have problems with adhesion.

Sorry I missed those, brother. So many to keep up with, lol! Now back to our regularly scheduled program: I hope it isn't coming across that I want to make it more difficult ("elitist") for anyone to reach higher levels. Many (if not most) of the fine folks I troop with are happy as clams to stay at basic approval, and I am totally fine with that! As I mentioned before, it's all about having fun, camaraderie and doing some good at the same time! Every one of the items I suggested (as changed in the updated list) pertain only to level 3, and not unrealistic to achieve (with the exception of the "ideal" ears and shoulder bridges/bells in some cases). We have seen people do amazing things when they are suggested! They are not requirements, and of course not everyone will, but those that do set their sights for the higher levels will have a more defined picture of what to aim for. When John/Jane Futuretrooper are looking at the basic CRL requirements they may just see the L2 and 3 ones and think "Hmmmm... I can do that"! Even if they don't apply, they will have a better looking set of armor. In theory, we could spend the next 6 months discussing them, but imho at some point we will need to 'decide to make some decisions" and set some of these issues in stone, so to speak. My suggestions were only that... suggestions, and I am comfortable with any changes that may or not be made.

Here is a pic of a screen used (painted Chelsea) boot that may help, Caleb. It's a little beat-up, but you get the idea.

OK... Don't hate me, but since we are on the subject there are other dogs in this race. I know this is going to cause a clusterfudge, but what about these previous discussions? ROTJ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/45204-july-2018-request-for-crl-updates-thread/ 1) Shoulder cover pop rivets. L2 2) Thigh ammo belt secured with 3 pop rivets L2 3) Sniper knee secured with pop rivets? 4) Overlap construction L2 5) Forearm with return edge? 6) Removal of the need for elastic strap around rear of shoulder bridge? TKC https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/45523-tkc-request-for-crl-updates-thread/?page=3&tab=comments#comment-634403 From The thigh ammo belt shall be positioned on top of the lower ridge as seen in official references and is not rounded off like ANH. To The thigh ammo belt may be positioned on or above the lower ridge as seen in official references and is not rounded off like ANH. Lastly, I think it might be wise to do some updating on the CRL photos themselves. I realize that many may have been used just to have an example, but some need serious updating to reflect up to date changes, and some just look plain awful and are riddled with issues. There are a lot of incredible L3s now who's armor better reflects a more ideal look. Example: giskard8 (Arthur) from the HKG attains the very definition of a CRL model in all his builds. I know a while back that we changed the policy where weapons were no longer permitted to be shown with models (which I thought at first was strange but now I understand it completely) as they can cover up certain key areas, etc. (as in the present ANH-S pic) and are not a requirement for L1. These are the some that could use the updates, and if this is decided to be something we should pursue I am willing to spearhead the project. ANH-S, ANH-H, ESB, R-1, TKC, ROTJ. Thoughts?

One thing to keep in mind is take... your.... time...... As I often say, consider your build more of a marathon than a sprint. Also, as Jordan mentioned "measure twice, cut once". It's better to spend a bit of extra time taking off things in small increments rather than cutting off too much at once. When in doubt, ask us as many questions as you like and we will steer ya' in the right direction, and remember that photos help immensely when you have an issue. Also, as Matt mentioned, if you are (hopefully) aiming for Centurion level it's better to do it during your build rather than after. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35371-eib-and-centurion-what-do-these-terms-mean/

I edited/commented on a few. Thanks for the input!

I think this got a liiiiiittle off topic in a few areas, lol, but I was wondering the same thing. Any final decisions?

This is what I would suggest, Brendan:

This guy (MakerofThings) is a blatant recaster. He has recast Mark's (sskunky) ROTJ suit and JoeR ROTJ bucket, Jimmorquai's work and God knows who else. He claims in his ads that his items are cast from screen-used armor. This is not true. My advice- steer clear.

Welcome, Lawrence, and REALLY nice start to your build thread! If I could make a suggestion, it would be to remove a lot more (if not all) of the return edges on a few areas. Some like the fact that it makes you armor appear to be "thicker", but in reality it can really cut into you while trooping. (We call it "armor bite"). I am including some reference images of screen used pieces to give you examples. Important: If you decide to remove these areas, be sure to do another fitting/sizing before gluing anything. Otherwise, the piece will be too loose afterward. The scoop/top on the biceps should have none. Again, these can will cut into you. Also, they can not be seen and may cause your shoulder bells to flare out. Reference image The wrist area should have no return edge at all, which includes the "bump" area as seen at the bottom of the reference image below. You can leave some of the edge at the top, and trim as much as you feel comfortable with or remove it all. Reference image I realize you aren't at these points yet, but this suggestion also includes the tops of the thighs, especially in the groin area (trust me on this one). If you find that the shoulder bells are too far away from the chest/back, the bottoms can be removed on those as well and still be screen accurate. Reference images Keep up the great work, and continue to post lots of photos and ask any questions you may have.. we are here to help!

In case you didn't see it, this may help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44619-magnets-101/

To quote a famous pet detective , "B.E .A. utiful!

OK, folks, we need to note that these are only suggestions at this point, and would have to be approved before becoming official CRL policies. Also, with regard to many of them, they only apply to level 2 and above, NOT basic approval. We all joined the 501st to get out and troop, put smiles on people's faces and let's face it, live out the dream of being the most iconic (and imho coolest) SW characters ever! Expert Infantry and Centurion are not requirements, but those that (hopefully) pursue them should be aware that certain guidelines must be met. Will the average person on the street notice that we have gaps, misaligned armor, or ears that aren't angled correctly? Of course not! But, those of us who want to go the extra mile need to realize that certain criteria must be met to attain those levels. Will those who have already attained those levels be required to change their armor? In a word, no, as they will be "grandfathered" in. As I have explained before in this thread, the reasoning behind my suggestions is simply to help those on their way to levels 2 and 3, which would give them some guidelines to go by and avoid them being asked to change certain items to advance in rank. All that being said, I honestly encourage each and every one of you to apply for at least Expert Infantry level (or above). Even if you have issues, we are here to help you get that badge under your name!

The wrist looks as if it could be a bit more snug, but as you mentioned you need to get your hand through!. Since we expect at this point to see you eventually apply for levels 2 and 3 (), before gluing the cover strips I would remove all of the return edges on the wrist. This may give you a bit more wiggle room. Are these you cut lines? If so, (and they fit comfortably) you are in good shape. Since you are "heftier fellow than those 160lb, 5'10 British gentlemen in the movies" you can have more of the ridge showing if needed. It will take a bit of trial and error, but I would cut them down a bit at a time until you get a comfy fit. You can also remove all of the return edges at the top as well if you like. As many of you know, I am not a fan of return edges on forearms, (or biceps, or thigh tops, or shoulder bells). Some troopers like the "thicker armor" look, which is fine and dandy, but some (especially those who need the space) can remove them and still be 100% screen accurate. Plus, return edges can really cut into you while trooping, especially in the cod (groin) and top of the forearm, which is bent most of the time due to carrying an E-11. I personally like to glue the inside cover strips first and check the fit. This way, if there are any alterations that need to be done you don't have to worry about scratching your armor removing them. Inner cover strips can actually be made from ABS scraps, (or even cut from a heavy duty white plastic "For Sale" sign). They are not seen, and don't have to be pretty, just functional. Many don't bother with them,, but I always suggest using them on the inside of the calves if nowhere else because that connection gets a lot of use opening and closing them.

I don't know of anyone here who has their own molds (commonly called "bucks"). Crafting a set of bucks for a 501st approvable set of TK armor can take hundreds of hours as well as a small fortune. Here is an example, which will show you what I mean: There are 2 threads here which may help you: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19329-where-what-and-whom-to-avoid-when-buying/

Did you make your own molds, Thomas? Also, are you looking to get 501st approval?

I've seen it both ways, but I always refer back to the originals. It's easy to do, and I think it looks way better (like you have it now)! Keep the questions and photos coming!!

Incredible job so far, Brendan! Glad to see you asking questions... many don't and end up having to re-do certain areas. I know you are pretty much finished with the TD, but if I could make a couple of suggestions they would be to cut down the length of the clips and tighten up the bend a bit more. The bottom of the clips look as if they will show too much when attached to your cloth belt, and tightening up the bend will keep it more secure. You can also add some white Velcro (the fuzzy side) to the inside and out of the rear of the clip. This will also help keep it secure and prevent it from scratching your armor. Reference image I think you would have a better look if you reversed your S-trim... (the rounded part on the inside/flat on the outside). Appears to be a bit bulbous. Keep up the great work, future Centurion!