sharkbait

I've heard plenty of bad things about Jedi-Robe, but I don't know much about returns... generic advice would be to stay on them and don't let them get away with anything; you'll likely eat the shipping, which sucks, but could be a lot worse. Good luck, regardless! Let us know what happens.

I also second trimming all return edges from the bottom of your thighs- it's not visibly noticeable when wearing it and it will also help prevent armor bites and digging in to the back of your knee (painful, to say the least, I speak from experience). Feel free to post in progress pictures if you'd like more guidance. The EIB and Centurion application threads are also a great resource for close up shots.

That helmet is definitely wonky, as others have said, the teeth really jump out at me. The chest looks a little "space boobs" of the AM 1.0 era (AM did a 2.0 and fixed that; that's what I wear), but then in other photos they look like they have soft details (possibly indicative of recasting, but I make no comment one way or the other; that's a can of worms I'm not even going to touch). The angles pointed out also worry me- cracking and just why is it angled? I personally see too much work and scrapping the helmet all together. I say stay away.

I agree the torso looks a little long. I'd try raising it up first, then cutting if more shortening is needed (top is easiest to trim, because you won't see it, and the cod remains proportional to the rest of the suit). Also a very common problem is that your sniper plate wants to go under your thigh piece- I've had it, I've know at least four other TKs with this issue, it's just a thing. We all used the same trick- fold up a cheap washcloth (like from the dollar store) or medium-to-high density craft foam (if you have any lying around), tape it up (white duct tape- a necessary standard for any TK bin), and then tape it in the front of the shin. It will punch out the sniper plate and keep it from going under the thigh. This can also happen if your thighs are a bit big- the more fitted they are, the less you have to punch out the sniper plate. How much extra room do you have in the forearms? They look like they could be taken in a little (not too much- you want to be able to get your hand through). Also, huzzah, another ESB!

Seconding all the cautions to be very careful when working with a heat gun- it's all true, and definitely practice on a scrap piece. I have a cheapie from Harbor Freight, it has high and low. I couldn't begin to tell you the actual temps, but both are pretty hot (ie don't stick your hand directly in front of it). The biggest trick is to KEEP MOVING. Don't let the gun sit steady and hover over any given spot of armor- yes, this is tempting because it makes the process go faster, but it also ruins things that much faster. Move it back and forth like a pendulum swing. Also don't get too close to the armor in question- same temptations and reasons as above. I'd recommend no less than six inches from your armor piece, preferably eight to ten inches. I use mine in combination with a clamp to get my forearms to a more circular shape when they want to go oval on me (so far a once a year thing for me). I tried the hot water trick, which works if you only need a little bend; I needed significantly more and the hot water trick just didn't hold. What armor piece are you trying to work with? That also makes a different. There are also heat irons, but I personally didn't have any luck with one and prefer the gun. It's all personal preference. Also, if inexperienced, the heat iron is used directly on the armor, while the gun is not. Food for thought there.

I got my decals from Trooperbay- I believe these were it: https://trooperbay.com/esb-helmet-decals. WTF helmets aren't specifically listed, so I would email them and ask if they'd fit. As to mike tips, I found these on Trooperbay as well- https://trooperbay.com/mike-tips. They appear to be "correct" at first glance. I did speaker versions from Ukswrath, but I ultimately found them too quiet. I don't know enough about WTF TK helmets to tell you if the tips that came with it (if they did come with it) are accurate or not. Good luck!

Ha, my two favorites are (currently) in the lead... Honestly I wouldn't be disappointed with any of these, though. Great work, designers!

Looking pretty good! Soon enough SVS should have another EIB in our ranks!

THANK YOU.

Yeah, every time I see that image I have to quiet my utter rage... I've done my best to update my own posts, but the build threads especially are just gutted, on ALL our forums, which is disastrous and frustrating. Also when you realize that whiteamor has spoiled you and other detachments don't have near the wealth of build threads to begin with. Curse Photobucket!

Have: 501st: TK - ESB TK DZ - Jawa TI - TIE Reserve IC - ROTJ Crewman ID - Staff Officer (Black) ID - Warrant Officer IG - Gunner TI - ANH TIE Pilot TX - Shadow Scout ID - Social Officer (Solo) ID - Line Officer (Olive) ID - Admiral Daala (Olive uniform) IC - ANH Crewman IC - ESB Crewman RL: Willrow Hood Jawa (dual membership) Jedi (generic) - Servina Crooow (guess that reference! Hint: they're two snarky robots from a cult TV series, now resurrected) In Progress: 501st: TK - Phasma Mando: My Mando - gotta get that trifecta of clubs! Plus our local Mandos are awesome and I'd love to troop with them as one of them not just as a sister club. Someday this would be cool (eventually, no timeline): 501st: BH - ESB Boba Fett BH - Boushh (might try for dual Rebel Legion membership, but I don't like that they have hair requirements, even if you don't take off your helmet) TD - Sandy (Desert Foxes and SWAT!) TS - Snowtrooper (maybe, if I ever move somewhere actually cold, or just when I run of out of other costumes I want to do) I've come to the conclusion I'm addicted to collecting Detachments (and patches). Non-SW: Artemis Engineer - Artemis isn't a Star Trek game, but it's the Star Trek game you've always wanted. It's a space ship bridge simulator game where you have a team and each member mans a different station (Captain, Engineer, Weapons, Helm, Communications and Science). Check it out here- it's super fun! (If you do a costume though you will spend the entire time explaining what it is. I still love how mine came out, though). Klingon - TNG (the best kind of Klingon, honestly) Sally from Nightmare Before Christmas (I was gonna make it, but then I found a dead-accurate awesome one on Etsy and it's not a ton more than I'd probably end up spending on fabric and supplies, so now I'm conflicted). Jessica Rabbit - I also need to upgrade this one to actual wearable without terrifying potential for wardrobe malfunctions status (it's mostly possible in the sense you have to modify it from the cartoon to fit a real human anyway). In progress (sort of): Ariel from The Little Mermaid - She has always been my favorite Disney Princess. I have the fabric and the pattern, have I done anything else with it? Nope.

Here's the links to my: EIB Thread - #574 Centurion Thread - #284

To be a part of something so amazing, so passionate, with unparalleled (and unquestioned) loyalty to the 501st, the Legion’s causes, and to each other. (Let's be honest- that picture says it all, but I felt like I needed to write something anyway!)

Whoo, another potential Centurion! I did Centurion from the start as well, with AM2 armor. I contacted RT-Mod for a replacement back plate. Interestingly, in researching, I discovered that the CRL for ESB TKs indicates AM 1.0 chest is to be replaced, and AM (not specified 1 or 2) back plate to be replaced; however, on ANH Hero and Stunt, it's listed as AM chest and back plates to be replaced, without specifying 1.0 or 2.0. (I did ESB). I'm inclined to say it's an oversight in the language, as the reference image on all three CRLs is exactly the same. But, full disclaimer: I have no actual authority on this, so this is just my humble opinion. (Anyone with knowledge and/or such authority, please chime in- I'm curious to know for future reference as well). I've also heard AM2 is now accurate for all levels, but I've not seen one in person or a photo to accurately judge for myself. I bought my kit about two years ago, and had to upgrade the back plate (if I can find a picture of both versions, I'll add them, the difference is pretty obvious side by side). My recommendation is do what I did- order the AM, check out your pieces and determine if replacement parts are necessary, if not, build to Centurion and done. If needed, get replacements on order, build to Centurion minus those requirements, join in the Legion and all the fun, then swap out once they arrive and apply for EIB/Centurion. Good luck!

Holster (and its attachment to belt), helmet details (decal only for ESB Centurion v. hand-painted only for ANH Centurion; black frown v. gray frown, color variation, different number of teeth cut out, maybe?), Snowie hand plates (and how they attach), no bubble lenses, and blaster (stripped down from ANH version; there are also two ESB versions, but I couldn't begin to tell you the difference). Maybe one other tiny detail, but yeah, like everyone else said, pretty dang close. I took the second and third bullet to mean the bridges free float in the back, but are held in place/connected by the white elastic band, and the elastic or webbing connector (elastic stretched out in two troops in my experience, got replaced with webbing), which are snapped to the chest and back plates. The free-float also, in my experience, makes it easier to get on and off, an puts less stress on the bridges themselves, so less potential for cracking. Here's my photos:

Two of us TKs in the Squad have a pair of those- they are so much fun! Not to be worn at canon-troops, but the vast majority of our troops aren't cannon, so not a big deal. It's also kind of hilarious how inept you can be trying to hold them up to open them and get them onto a potential prisoner because you can't see very well while wearing your helmet. Another Squad member painted a pair gray and carries them with his Naval Trooper.

Your hand-painting on your bucket is fantastic.

So are anything Rubies, but people still buy them...

Congratulations! Welcome to the Centurion club!

I have no intention of buying this (I plan do get Jimmi's when the time comes), but I was curious if anyone knew anything about it: https://www.amazon.com/Stormtrooper-Captain-Phasma-Armor-Costume/dp/B01MRV40BU Seller is "Thor's Costumes and Hobbies." Specifically states "Meets or exceeds all requirements for 501st club accuracy and detail." in the description. Maybe he's a legit dude; though with so few Phasma and TFA makers... I can't help but wonder. Edit: Yeah, I figured this was bunk. I reported inaccurate info to Amazon- does not meet, let alone exceed 501st requirements. Those knee plates just look wrong to me, among other things. Mentioned is unauthorized re-casting, but Amazon likely doesn't know what that means. *Link updated

Your helmet looks great! Good luck!

Rebecca Beiderwell TK-29118 Letter Andrew http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/29118-centurion.png

You can never use too many clamps. Also, when putting your velcro on the back of the shins, I recommend using E6000 or whatever glue you're using to adhere it, even if it's sticky-back already. Sticky back just isn't strong enough to hold up to opening and closing, and if you live anywhere where it will get hot, the glue will melt and it will come off and be a big mess. I learned about the heat = glue mess from another project. If you're not using sticky-back then it's kind of a moot point because you'll need to glue it anyway.

I did Eastbay originally, and just used a sharpie to black out the gray lines in case they showed. It needed to be touched up after every wash and/or a few troops, and I had a tenancy to get sharpie all over me in the process, but otherwise it was doable. Eventually I found a random brand without seams (here's the men's version, I think: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B017ULOWSM?m=A2IFB4OR508H7D&ref_=v_sp_widget_detail_page&th=1). I still use the Easbay tops and they're great. Just pick off the Eastbay logo at the bottom.

Nice job on the teeth- very clean. If the hot water bath isn't enough to round out the forearms (it wasn't for me), then you can c-clamp it and use a heat gun (very carefully). Keep up the good work!