TK bondservnt

common sense requires fat and small to be accepted.

the existance of sidegap shims proves that I"M NOT THE ONLY ONE! there are many people who just don't have the body type for small armor. do people who need to shim consider themselves to be rejected at the EIB or Centurion level?

so we blame the armor I wear? see... that's not the point of armor. the point of armor is not about body size. it matters if it looks good enough to pass standards established by the crl. shims and extended parts allow for armor even in the centurion status. you should not judge based upon size. I don't want to wear RT mod armor. I have AP armor with shims on my sidegaps. that's it. there are tons of centurion or EIB troopers who have 14" arms 18" biceps 23" thighs 19" shins with a 38" waist and a 40" chest. those are my measurements. just because I don't have: 10" arms 12" biceps 21" thighs and 17" shins with a 34" waist and a 36" chest does not mean that I should be rejected for EIB or Centurion. the main point of a costuming club is not to ever forget that fat people want to be EIB and Centurion and they want to stuff themselves into costumes that are too small for them. I can list on and on the EIB and Centurion builds that are not small people.

the whole point is to allow common sense variables in wearing armor.

I just wish the leather was real.

it just stands for NO VISIBLE GAP.

Forearms For 501st approval: Forearms are fully closed. Thighs For 501st approval: Thigh armor shall be closed in the back. The small ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh. Lower Legs For 501st approval: Greaves close in the back. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the left greave and may have two visible brads or rivets securing it to the greave. Here is the language from the CRL I personally think that mandating glue on the thighs and forearms is as wrong as mandating that shins be also glued. the language just does not support glue in every case. MY personal forearms are 13" in diameter when relaxed. when fully flexed my forearms are 14" this means that the armor at the widest point needs to be at LEAST 14.5" photos incoming to show my point. forearm shown without cover strip. forearm without cover strip and my arm stuffed in as tight as possible. my hands are too large to fit inside armor and look slim without using the velcro method. my hand without a glove is 9. 1/4" if I have a glove on it's 9 3/4" I personally believe that if you take away the option of having open forearms then you're putting people with large hands and arms into a situation where we would have to wear barrel popeye forearms. should we paint anchors on them and eat green leafy veggies from a can? screen used forearms most likely are 9-10" with a hand about 7-8" wrist. let's not get into biceps! some people are much larger than screen used sizes. We NEED to allow shims, and variables for the INSIDE of how armor goes together for different body types!! are we going to BAN large people from EIB or Centurion? are we going to BAN short people? the goal of clamshell parts is to allow them to be more tailored and slimmer in these situations. (unlike having to have them larger) thighs, forearms and shins all benefit from being allowed to clamshell with a fully closed velcro seam and a coverstrip.

trooperbay good stuff!

I use PC fans. 5V.

very nice work! I'd have to say that using angelus leather paint did not even require deglazing. and the paint works on elastic as well. all you need now is a shiny sealer clear coat. but since you went TD you used fuller's earth? and then sealed it?

if you look closely at photos of Han in the garbage compactor it looks like his forearms are assembled larger. I use a clamshell on the forearms, one side is glued and the other is 'fully closed' with velcro attached. i hve to take a forearm off to remove my helmet. this allows me to do that without having to struggle with a glove, then a forearm. how it looks is more important than How it's made! there's no seam and the velcro covers the entire join, so there's no gap.

usually just trimming the shins and thighs and upper chest works for 5'5"

looks great!

e-6000 no webbing. elastic only. jb weld and araldite will WARP plastic during the HEAT cure. abs weld or ZAP A GAP can be used with reduced longevity. I use white duct tape for my screen frown mesh. I edge it, then I tape that down. overlap joins are only used in ROTJ builds. you can join velcro with e-6000 it works like a charm.

I'm considering hiring out a run of smaller width belts. there is a loom company here locally.

ah... I just didn't know your terms for those vendors!~ and I thought you had a new source! you should look at the DVH kits in the sale section. there is a europe vendor. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/23404-dvh-e-11-blaster-kit-european-delivery/

do you have links for the blasters you mention?

does anyone know where to find the material? it's great to have an accurate CRL and now the hard work begins?

just start with novus 2. sandpaper! no way!

I can confirm that it's a doopy scope, and counter. the tube and T Tracks might not be the doopy MK2 kit. from looking at the photos in detail I can see in the power cells, that it's a doopy style kit.

or use cleaners to remove the paint. and shine em back up with clear coats!

good work!

if you're going ROTJ then you want CFO armor. not RS props!

I use tin snips and a power belt sander and hand sanding for strips I use a board clamps a metal flat bar of aluminum and a razor knife

I made a mistake by purchasing the EWOK! don't do it. they keep throwing rocks. and they bite.