TK bondservnt

AP was cast from a suit made for promoting the film. TM was sculpted by the maker himself after studying the design for several years. if you plan on getting into the armor making business, you should consider how many other people are actually making armor that was produced from suits seen on screen in the film. if you purchase a kit, and then make a design based upon that. then that is also not allowed by the legion. that's called "recasting" if you make armor molds you have to show your work, or the Legion won't approve you. making armor is not cheaper than buying a kit already formed.

if you want to be accurate you should not consider sculpting your own armor. AP has probably the shortest wait time. it's best to purchase a kit in ABS plastic and then assemble that according to your body size. casting and mold making and making a vac table won't work with the simple types... most people spend at least 3k usd for making armor, then they have to be legion approved, and that process takes much longer than you might expect. it's not like you're going to pop out good looking armor with a shop vac and simple table. The Legion is about screen accuracy, not about saving money by "making it yourself" and the rub is my friend, that it costs much more than you might be factoring in!~ http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/

I can say for sure it's AP. and the ears are not painted? looks to be an ESB setup, not too bad!

the details on the feed tray, and the charging handle alone are worth the price... not to mention the clean makers marks... can't get enough of the BFG!

6/32" brass flathead 1"

that is the goal of this thread, to give the FISD a place to make suggestions on the content of the DATABANK. does anyone have more photos of the ROTJ or ESB blasters, as we do need more data on those types.

it's good to chat with both of you!

Sterlings can come from many different places. The L2A3 was produced in england.

where is that shelf? I'd like to see a 10 round patchet clip. links?

I am trying to find out why ron had to fill the holes on his? if the tracks are accurate, there must be some kind of difference. when I compare POL and marv and gino track, there are ton's of differences in every aspect. Length, width height of T on Track, shape of track top, and shape of track bottom. as far as GINo's method of scale, he would have to answer for that. I firgure that GINO took measurements from screen used lightsabres. since it was his job to replicate them.

The wiselite sterling is a Semi-Auto, with a larger front inner barrel, longer and thicker. the muzzle is modified, and the trigger group has been modified. the company takes parts kits and welds them together to create the single shot sterling. some states don't allow the larger magazine, so that can also be cut down.

7/16 is the standard size...

how wide are the T Tracks? thanks for the info ron!~

This post will have detailed photos. "wait for it!"

perhaps NE might be a little large then! with derek's post. but anyone who is contacting a maker should supply measurements and ask the advice of the maker themself!

with all due respect david... brett is asking about NE armor. NE armor is not AM armor, so it's really not that much larger. you have to ask the armor maker about measurements. don't take advice from casual observers. ask detailed measurement questions from the armor maker themself. TM armor is fine for your size, as well ATA AP and TE styles... NE armor is also fine for your size. AM or FX armor would be too large.

I think GINO's reasons for not showing the data, is because he's not been vetted by LFL or the private collectors to show photos and data on the project. so in a way I believe he's saying "it's out of my hands" and If I read correctly eventually GINO might be able to share his sources, and expertise on this unknown part of STAR WARS. In the prop community there is such a thing as privacy! I've watched time and time again how attacks against makers are mounted by the "fanboys" in the prop community. you can clearly read on the RPF how GINO has to defend himself against attackers who don't know the facts. sometimes I think GINO has a target painted on him by reckless un-informed fans. it's like shark week! Gino's reputation seems to always be under attack by some in the community who don't really listen when he tries to explain, or listen when he is forced to defend himself. he is asked to constantly prove himself time and time again... it must be really a situation where people are blinded by jealousy and mis-understandings of the facts. Having the original parts from STAR WARS is the holy grail of prop collectors. sometimes parts will never be located.

I consider having all of them very fun! I've been following the differences in T Track so much that I want to buy some of CFO (mark's) T Track just to look at the differences!

I've been reading here since 2008 and some of the details of the attacks on GINO are legend from the armor wars between TE AP and TM those were the days! I don't personally understand why GINO is misunderstood by so many? is it because he tried to defend himself against those who seek to put down his work? we all have data, and we form opinions from our own dataset. as we learn and our dataset grows, as well our opinion should grow. I use Tapered Rake Track from leaf rakes, then I sand them and work them into stuff that "works" for me. yet I also have GINO track, and I"m trying to find a gunsmith/machinist to help me finish my uber e-11 build. we all have different ways of looking at the same things... and I find it hard to see why reputation and misunderstandings get in the way. can you GINO describe more about the poster above and his statements? and on a side note I'd sure like to see an ARMOR FAMILY TREE?

Start from the center. Use a hole punch and anvil from a snap set to punch holes in the canvas belt that match your mounting locations drilled for the hardware you are going to use to mount the plastic belt to the canvas. Then punch holes for the snap locations in the canvas belt. Mount jeans style silver snaps to the belt. Make sure they align with your snap locations on the abdomen. Mount snaps to abdomen and test connection. Mount plastic belt to canvas and check alignment. Glue button covers over your hardware. (Chicago screw posts 1/4" strongly suggested) If using E-6000 put a small dot of duck tape over the head, and then apply glue. this prevents the button cover from being distorted by the heat generated during e-6000 cure. Put armor on, and set belt as tight as possible. Mark and cut belt at both ends leaving a 1/2" extra on each end. Make sure you have 4" of overlap fold extra over where you cut and left extra, and glue or sew in place the end seams. Glue extra velcro on the inside of the belt to adjust the position of the velcro overlap so that you have 4" of overlap (e-6000 again to the rescue!) Position holster in place and hole punch the locations for mounting and add your holster. Again Chicago screw posts 1/4" strongly suggested, some like to use snaps on the inside of rivets. it's more complex, which is why using screw posts is so simple. Special thanks to Billy for the photos! ---------

I'm glad that marv's track worked. the track I've seen is on the wiselite sterling that ron used. perhaps the wiselite used the incorrect hole size? and Gino worked for Master Replicas, and can speak for himself regarding the timeframe of the extrusion. so it's master replica's then EFx so I believe that he gained the experience of being in the presence of screen used Track. it least I now have reason to admire marv track as well as gino track. I'm setting up to take photos of my sterling parts kit with GINO MARV and SABREFREAK Track all compared. the photo above of marv track is interesting! photos soon.

indeed! 48"

drop boxes should be mounted so that the box is right up against the belt. in the film they were looped over the canvas and riveted to the backing dropbox.

Marv track is too thin. I've never seen sskunky's track so I don't know. GINO track is patterned after actual T Track,. GINO has access to original lucasfilm parts see GINO is one of those lucky people who actually has been working for company's that actually have the REAL THING. so this is why I have T tracks from malay (sabrefreak- on the RPF who is sold out by the way) and I have MARV track, and can prove that it's too thin. (allows holes to be seen along the barrel, which is not correct) and lastly I have GINO track... and I know for a fact that it's perfect

the e-11 or the DLT 19?