TK bondservnt

done.

+1 :smiley-sw013:

T Tracks should be tapered into a V shape before bending. and if you have upwards curl you need to TEAR IT OFF and start again. ( yeah, I know. it sounds like I'm ranting.. ) someboobie should do a how to do T Track Tootorial! hehehee! LOL! the upward curl is seen at the end of your T Tracks. This is a very common issue with setting T Track. The key is to sand the ends into a V before bending.. V before B sounds kinda funny right? the key is to taper the end into a V shape before bending. and if you look closely at the real sterlings in the film they are cut in a V shape and bent into the blaster. yes. This is only a rant showing how hard it is to get T Tracks level. I feel your pain! every single blaster I've ever made has caused me to tear off T Tracks!!!

and you will follow a different path than mine.

I hate how true the article is! LOL!

The fun part about real life is being able to be a part of this forum. I had 5 PM's to answer, new projects to start, Tutorials to work on and products to pick up at the post, as well as prepare to send. in some way the FISD is actually a major part of my life. really! I'm sure glad that we have a good backup! perhaps we should consider a monthly backup schedule? a cron job perhaps!>?

This pretty much sums up my evaluation of the castings.

Because of the history of the firing weapons used in star wars, it's my personal opinion that the solid extractor was most likely a Ministry change of some kind. There were modifications from the Patchet Sterling, and the Fazkerley Sterling in the folding stock, trigger shape, extractor, and magazine wells, and Mag release catches. Sterling and Fazkerley had a dispute between them, and there was a legal resolution. The ministry of defense asked for modifications to parts, and to paint finish. So there can be marked differences between sterlings classified as L2A3 I personally go with a solid extractor on star wars blasters. Here's some interesting info on blasters and gun dates and shapes. http://bondservnt.wix.com/the-e-11-blaster#!sterling/c14cx here's the website address for computers. we have a mobile version. http://bondservnt.wix.com/the-e-11-blaster sections to update: ANH-ROTJ blaster sections. blaster builds blaster parts. please post in this thread, links, photos, and whatever you feel would help the project. we're off to a good start! with your help we'll be perfect@! PM ME all blaster fans! let's update this thing! lot's of little formatting updates, links and photos to add. make sure you have permission to post before adding stuff! (if the data is not yours, put confirmation in the post showing permission) thanks!

uh... swap the chest and back out for more accurate parts along with shoulder bells and forearms? heck man,,, just make a zombie trooper out of it and buy another TK!

I supplied the original scope and counter parts for the original DVH kit, and when I received them I was very sad.

please drill out the center hole on the pin interface cap and study the front of the counter as well.

You made plans that followed my suggestions and have been a light in a dark place for me, and many others. you should be proud of that! I do have to say that the extractor on the bolt might have some differences between a semi-auto bolt and a full auto bolt. or it might be due to manufacturing upgrades. All my 3 old full auto bolts all look much different than the mods being done: See the difference? and the blue snaggletooth hengstler counters are real counters with the front cut off. The texture and color of the bolt is modified by the cosmolene still wonderfully present on my photo parts DO NOT HAVE A TEXTURE OR A BROWN/GREEN BOLT on your blaster... nope!

I have been building blasters for a long time, and Aaron has basically taken up where I left off! but I sure am Chuffed quite a bit that my photos crop up just at the right time! that makes me happy!

I personally would swap the bucket, and fix the abdomen button color.

the frown is the hero design. the helmet is a HERO design, but it is close.. and yet still fails. close but no cigar.

As Steve has correctly pointed out some of the errors in construction, I'd also like to add to his list of errors on the assembly of this helmet. Tube Stripe Decals mounted in non accurate position. Chin / Vocoder paint job is not painted correctly. Brow trim is cut incorrectly at the temples. Hovie Tip tusks are not the correct design or color. As has been suggested before there are better ABS kits out there. you also might want to contact WALT on here his helmets are slightly more expensive than an ATA, but in my opinion are just slightly more accurate than an ATA.

my holsters are 30.00 plus shipping. my PM's were full, but now they are open!

I've been looking at custom cases shops all over the place. the size of an E-11 can be challenging to find a case that's not too large.

it's a numbers game

I have a PDF showing in detail how to assemble one. https://www.dropbox.com/s/jxg5723bhg9mhkz/Helmet%20tutorial.pdf?dl=0 andy did it.

I have a link to a PDF

I have an extra cap. PM me.

I'm in nor cal and have built 3 ata and over 47 AP armors. contact me via PM fpr more details

some time in late january. for the logo plates