kev011

I heard about the deal this morning for the $350 kit. Though I have a clone trooper set of armor started, I think I'd really enjoy owning this classic set of white armor. Now I just have to figure out where to make $350 materialize before May 4th.

Thank you! I'd typed avonos in the search engine and this was the only thread that popped up, thanks for the specific direction

I just heard about the "classic" kit price today online with the $350 price tag. I thought I'd check in here to see if anyone else was talking about this?! ------------- Will this pass the strict 501st guidelines from your guys point of view? I hadn't thought about entering into a TK suit until I saw this price tag. Knowing there is still going to be all the work of assembly and such, if this would pass for 501st events in the end without severe mods, I could be in! Let me know what you all think. I sure could use a nearly complete suit of white armor to go along with my E-11 Cheers, Keven

Since I'd finished my E-11 Blaster build, I had some left over pieces parts that I've been thinking about how to utilize. I had two scopes that I made into one. I took all the guts and glass parts from an M77C and put it into my M38 to have a scope that would appear as an authentic E-11 Blaster from A New Hope. I saw some threads on what scopes were used vs not used and recall seeing a graphic that mentioned taking out the center section of those unused scopes and thought about how to perhaps make a decent attempt at creating an M19 from one of those scopes. I came up with this: I realize that this would be some work to get it there and that you could probably take this several steps further to create a very accurate representation (and possibly functional) M19 look-a-like. The question is, has anyone attempted this yet? I'm curious how close of an end result this idea could yield.

Thank you, Jkno! Did I see somewhere you did a MerrSonn Power5 Blaster? I've been debating on either doing one of those or perhaps a esb Han Solo DL-44 next. I'd prefer to stick to bad guys and I'm currently on the hunt for pieces parts for a Mauser build up

Thanks so much, gazmosis! Much appreciated.

Thanks Art! You're very lucky to have a complete Sterling, your build should be a snap!

Aaron really nailed it. Pretty much the same process I used doing the carb dip and airplane stripper but I did use a wire wheel on my angle grinder on some parts of it to help things along. I also recommend putting down card board boxes below you chemical dipped parts and this will soak up the black gunk and the chemicals of the airplane stripper as well and can go to the trash when done. Chemical dip will evaporate quickly if you leave it uncapped, one thing you could do is get some old socks and soak them in the chem dip, then put them on either end of the gun so they are sitting on the metal, then place the soaked socks on the gun in a heavy plastic bag (or double bag it) and leave over night. You may need to repeat this process over a few days but it will soften that coating up and make your chem dip go further. Just finished up mine if anything can help you out here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?/topic/29486-Chopped-up-Sterling-project-%3D-E-11-Blaster

Thanks for the compliments! The stand is completely temporary. I made it specifically so I could take some photos today. It's pretty stabile for what it is. The footprint is 2" wide by 10" long. The biggest issue is some of the weight of the counter and the magazine offsets the balance. If I didn't rush it I could have cut the square mount pretty close to the folding stock so it wouldn't turn at all. I have plans for building a nice base for this but came up with this quickie solution for today.

Thank you, Sandtrooper!

If anyone is still following along, here's the update: And… DONE! I finished a few days ago (thursday) on the painting and assembly on Saturday. The massive snow storm that hit kept me from posting as I was digging my family out to civilization and also had to stay home with my son due to school closings. But, it's complete. I'd mentioned that I was using DuraCoat (which I don't recommend) I thought it was magic in a can but I don't have positive things to say about the experience, so I'll just keep it at that. If you'd like more details about it or if you are considering it, please feel free to PM here and I'll give you some details. Today I bent up a quick piece of plexiglass that I had scraps of to make a quickie stand to shoot this E-11. I've very pleased with how it came out. The only thing remaining is to build a proper stand which I have already in the works (at least in my head). Hope you enjoyed and I've helped out someone out there as much as many of you have helped me in this build. Troopers helping Troopers, right?

Sorry for the lack of posting on this. Sometimes life gets in the way of fun. I wanted to do a quick update to the thread so it's not completely dead, although it's not seeming to be very popular in the known universe of white armor. I've spent some time sanding all the parts pretty smooth and shot a quick coat of black SEM primer over all the parts to be painted to check my sanding skills. I'm glad I did the practice run of the primer as it let me know I missed a few spots in the folding stock. That area will require some thinking on how to shoot all the areas and not have any bare metal spots. I'm pretty pleased to see things look good! I ordered a Duracoat spraybomb kit with the can in a can tech of hardener plus pigment. I'm currently waiting on Mr Post Man to deliver one of these beauties to me! I decided to go with the best and Andy really pulled through on the power cylinders! I had them come naked so I could have a consistent color over the whole blaster. So as soon as they clear customs in Chicago and arrive here, I'll be building a paint jig coming up to harness all my parts, screws and nuts and widgets to easily be able to be painted. Getting close now! I also have some ideas of a blaster stand I may start on soon to really give this build a classy look. Until next time.

Having done this just recently, I feel like the trimming may be a better option. I worked with Roy's T-Track which heated up so fast. I reheated a few areas and it's easy to deform them too easily out of the total shape. If you reheat, take your time and watch your pressure!

I have two counters. One has a reset and the other is more of a lifetime counter with no reset. These were attached to each other. On whatever machine these were on together I think that one allowed for a daily,weekly, monthly total and the other was purely a lifetime. I wanted to experiment with the no reset button version so I didn't mess up. I suppose the whole scope could be mounted too far forward. I was attempting to align based first on the where the mag receiver was and then to the scope. I tried to align the face of the scope to the edge of the mag receiver and then the plastic tip (not the metal leads) to the edge of the outer ring of that scope. I've seen a few examples of the end of the counter hanging well over the mag release button, but that just makes it a pain in the butt to use. For the rear of the counter, I wanted to align the edge with the rear scope mounting point. This also makes it sit pretty nicely front-to-back with the scope. Maybe I'm way off, but I *feels* right to me. For top to bottom, I tried to match the height to the apex of the front of the scope to the apex of the receiver tube. Like I said, I feel like it's pretty balanced, but that's me.

Thanks guys! Okay, now that I had the plan, I just needed to make it happen. I bought myself a new tool set to do knurled threaded inserts after discovering them recently. Such a cool item to be able to rivet and have a threaded hole ready to go, all in one! Though these really didn't need to be added to the square tube, I was a little antsy to try it out so this was a perfect opportunity The tool allows you to mash/mushroom down, like a rivet and what you are left with is a pre tapped hole ready to go. This did give me a little more bite than what I would have had if I just tapped the 16 gauge tubing. Because there is nothing in that lower area, this just worked out great. If I decide I still wanted everything to work, it still could and nothing is interfered with as far as the mechanics of the counter. Here's the end cap going back on. Basically you just need to line up your holes to the new threaded areas. You're now digging through the inner casing and the outer casing and the counter bracket. With a little help of a dremel, all the holes lined up. The screws sandwich all the plastic components of the counter and go through the bracket and hold very securely. With the scope mounted, the screws fall in a great place that are difficult to detect. I'm going out of my way to shove my phone camera lens down in the nooks to take these pics. The screws are almost invisible from the rear end as it hugs nicely to the receiver tube. If I'm not mistaken, the counter is sitting in the agreed upon correct spot? right?!!?