ukswrath

WHAT! I want a ATA swag pin

well I'm glad it inspired someone, mission accomplished! You're very welcome BTW Seems like you have everything under control but if there's anything I can do to assist please let me know.

My kids are too old but this is soooooo cool. Great job Bill

Here I was browsing the build threads minding my own business and what do I see, the word REBUILD. I immediately broke out in hives . Andi your rebuild thread makes mine look like a cake walk, and mine was not. I've gotta hand it to you sister, some the inventive ways you've overcome serious obstacles should give others inspiration. I will be following the build with a vengeance. Keep up the good work

Looking great Victor

Oooooooh the brown box. Party Time!

Congrats Marc!

Whatever we decide, I would like to see it be as correct and completed as possible so that the rest of us following the alpha group are building it correctly the first time, not to say they didn't. If anyone has built any armor to the higher levels without researching or through endless CRL changes knows do-overs are a pain. I'd personally like to build it correctly and accurately from the start. I'll wait.

It was from one of the first live simulcast interviews with the two owners at C7, from the ANOVOS booth. I though it was interesting when he said something about the collector had the armor for about 25 years in his basement and somehow the guys at ANOVOS found out about it and contacted him.

Looking good Kyle

It's my understanding from the ANOVOS CEO interview they found a collector who actually had armor from the movie, confirmed the linage and was given permission to copy it. Someone correct me if I'm wrong here.

The Alsa stretch chrome vinyl seems to be the most cost effective and like you said, you damage it, peel it off and install a new layer. I like It. Question, I know they make colored ABS, is it possible to get it in silver? With the natural reflective properties of ABS it would almost appear chrome you think.

Seriously, very nice

Flippin awesome Derrek

Nice job

Great job Marc. Love the positive attitude also

Hum, good question, never really though about it. I figured it was one of those GREY areas edit: sorry just being silly, pretty much used the same as Mathias

Hey Dan, I completely agree with you, my ATA was the same way, and as Scott stated this is all voluntary. It's your armor, your build. Again, I'm with you on this, I fought the notch requirement tooth and nail, especially because it was being mandated at the centurion level as I was almost finished with my build. I was not a happy camper until something dawned on me, I was the only one who would ever know or care that there is a notch in a area where it wasn't designed to be. Hey, we'll respect you for your decision no matter what it is. You've built a great set of armor so far, A+ in my book. If you change your mind Centurion is just a 22mm notch away

Looking excellent! Thighs, I have 1" x 2" blocks of foam on the inside, outer areas near the knees on both legs. This pulls the armor outward in alignment with the shins. I personally put velcro on my boots and shins to keep them front and center since my tend to twist off center like in the movie. Back plate, nylon webbing will hold it together better IMO. Shoulder bells, I found the ball (top center) of my shoulder and placed the snap there. Remember you've attached your forearms to your bells, this will want to pull the bells forward naturally. Easy test is to temporary clamp the bell strap to the shoulder strap and walk around stopping in front of a mirror to see where the bell naturally sits. Once you find the sweet spot mark it and install your snap. edit: Optimally you want no more than 1/4" between your bell and shoulder strap. As you test walk be mindful of your bell downward position and how much it tugs on your shoulder straps. Again, once you find the sweet spot mark it and install snap.

Well of course that was my best guess at something I've never seen, and it backfired Eh we'll figure it out soon enough.

Well I have yet to see this buckle but if it's like any other buckle that got in my way, Velcro was there to replace it.

Well in between all the laughing you think you might get don't be surprised if you get oohs and aahs Seriously, you need to give yourself more credit. Most build parties you'll find 501st L1 basic builds, yours is L3 Centurion. Be prepared to teach others the mastery craft you've developed. The force will be with you

You need 4 snaps on the chest plate to be CRL accurate Russell, no wait 3, or was it 2, shoot! could be 5, gosh can't remember. Oh and one of your mounts appears to be off by 1mm compared to the others Snap mount cure time 3 days? I know ambient temp makes a difference but yikes. I accelerated mine by throwing a little heat on it then letting it sit, but that's me. Looking good sir

Line 24 nickel is the most common

Well I'm assuming your TD came with your kit, the tube should dimensions should be correct as it. It should be painted the same color grey as the helmet traps, ab buttons or close. From the CRL: Thermal Detonator For 501st approval: (A.K.A. O2 canister) attaches to the center back of the belt. Detonator consists of an all grey cylinder, without silver stickers or silver paint.The cylinder is between 2†(50mm) and 2.68"(68mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end. The white control panel pad faces upwards, with the controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap. The total length is approximately 7.50" (190.5mm). The thermal detonator is attached via metal or metallic-appearing clips, approximately 1" (25mm) wide. For level two certification (if applicable): Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps. As for the snaps - Tandy or Fasnap Tandy - https://www.tandyleather.com/en-usd/home/snaps.aspx?pg=all Fasnap (my choice) - http://fasteners.fasnap.com/category/snap-fasteners---screw-studs