ukswrath

DONE!

Here ya go http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/33467-team-armor-build-ne-esb-in-northern-california/

I would suggest adding more until the joint disappears

Have you tried filling the gap with ABS paste?

PM sent

Thank you

Hey Christina, thank you for your patience and EIB application. Let's get started CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required photos have been submitted. Sly and myself would like to congratulate and welcome you to Expert Infantry. Great Job! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section Sly, myself or your fellow troopers would discuss observations to improve the overall final look of your armor and we have absolutely nothing to add here. This is one stellar set of armor Christina. From the build to the fitment, this armor fits you perfect. Excellent job! I also like how you added the T-track wires on your DLT, nice touch Centurion Suggestions: None, except to see you Centurion application in the near future

Yep it's looking that way. Excellent news Jim. Glad we could be of assistance. If I had any other suggestions it would be to maybe place some foam in the thigh to keep it behind the sniper plate or you might find it digging into your knee cap. Also, may I suggest bringing in the shoulder bells to the point they almost touch the shoulder covers. This is #1 recommended repair Sly and myself make during EIB and Centurion approvals. Great job

Sounds good and effecting Centurion status, no you'll be fine.

Ok so there's a couple things we can do here. Start by raising your thighs 1/2-1". If you need to, remove more, if not all the upper return edge do so. Then I would start removing material from the bottom of the shins a little at a time, maybe 1/2". Afterwards, with the sniper knee temporarily installed, the top of the sniper knee should sit close to the lower edge of the thigh. It doesn't have to be perfect. In the movie they're all over the place. The shin halves look correct however, for the sake of argument switch legs and post another pic so I can see what it looks like.

Pre and post painting work took me longer than assembling the armor itself. Major pain but well worth it.

It also depends on what type of paint you'll be using afterwards. Something that is pliable is a high priority IMO. Every panel on your armor flexes more than you think. The chest flexes also when installing, removing, bringing your arms together, etc. Just something to keep into consideration.

However, as stated in another thread, if you were in the assembly process during the decision process we will not hold this against you, which ever way you made your notch.

I've repaired a few surfboards and water craft toys in my time. Fiberglass resin products are best suited in this case. I would contact a boat repair facility or Tap Plastics and see what they recommend. You need something that is strong yet flexible.

Glad to be of assistance. See you on the other side

ok, his boots run long (rectangular) at the top and obviously the armor isn't designed (shaped) that way. You can make the armor a bit wider in the area to accommodate the boots but to be honest it's the nature of the boot. I just cram mine up in the shin and use Velcro to secure the two.

Are you using TK (totally killer) boots?

I began with plastic welder because it's what I used to secure my chest box itself and it's tough but can be shaped when dry. Afterwards I used body putty to fill in any tiny holes. 98% of any areas known to be high flex, prone to cracking or highly visible I treated the same way.

Hey Chris, during the preliminary fitment and build I almost always add 1/2" clearance between the body and the armor. This technique seems to help when fitting items like the undersuit, gloves, boots, etc. Hope this helps

Awe much better thank you

Thanks Stephen . If you can do us another favor, there's to be no paint on the cod and butt plate rivets. If you can remove it and post another picture that would be awesome. Thank you

Hey Oscar can we get pictures of the following areas please Shoulder bridge connection, interior and exterior front and back Wrist side of forearms Thank you

Hey Oscar, sorry for the delay, Sly or myself will be with your shortly

Hey Christina, Sly or myself will be with your shortly

Hey Stephen Sly or myself will be with your shortly. In the meantime can you post the following images please thank you. Thermal Detonator back Blaster D-ring Hovi tip close up Cod and butt plate connections