Sly11

Looks very much Gold in this screen cap. Also adjusting the brightness and contrast, it stays the same colour as the end cap on his blaster.

A great behind the scenes image of the R1 Space trooper.

Wow, phenomenal photos, dead set amazing and looking like you just stepped off the production set.

Welcome to FISD and a new adventure in becoming an Imperial Stormtrooper. We are here to help.

For those without Some social media apps.

Perfect, thanks Glen. I'll look to update on those over the next day or so.

Welcome aboard trooper!

Impressive, most impressive!

Updated.

Internal view of a TFA Helmet. No edge trim, but this one had a webbing set up and a chin strap to keep it on and in-place

I would also like to add, once we have covered off all these parts and some feedback on wording etc, I would like to add a separate section for the Officer version with the additional red detail and blaster variant. I think because they are so close, we could have both covered in this one CRL with a few caveats indicating what is worn with what, but effectively 2 costumes. If we have enough feedback to show a separate CRL should be created specifically for the officer version, then that is also a viable option and an easy enough CRL build, providing we have someone willing to make those additional pieces and build an officer.

Welcome to FISD Neil. Ask as many questions as possible so e can offer the right advice and get you on your new journey to becoming a Stormtrooper.

100%. CRL's do evolve as new info comes to light.

The old moulds from the first film had started to collapse, hence the wonky helmet. I believe other parts were re moulded off existing kits as opposed to the old moulds, hence integrated ab buttons and those smaller details. The back and kidney plates were separate in ANH and ESB, yet a single piece on RotJ which points towards those parts moulded together. Additional edge trim was also added, not sure on the factual why, but it certainly could have covered cracking edges on re-used parts. They also sped up the assembly of the limbs by overlapping the edges for construction, where the ANH/ESB were done using a butt joint method. We have an armour maker that visits the forums @sskunky, he is very well versed in RotJ and can probably offer far more accurate information than I have provided.

3D files are available for the correct clips to make the DN helmet more accurate. I personally haven't had my hands on a DN, X Anovos TLJ helmet, to see how they are attached, but we certainly have members here that have and also replaced them with said printed clips. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/52039-mrpoopietherascalkings-tfa-tlj-first-order-stormtrooper-greeblie-pack/

First post updated.

Welcome again Vic, generally I recommend going with the costume that means the most to you. Your throwback photos tell me you are in the right places for sure, now it's a matter of your first love of a costume. With the humble original trilogy Stormtrooper, you do have a few choices. ANH-Stunt, ANH-Hero version, then ESB, which is an ANH stunt with a few small differences, then RotJ which has even more differences. Nair mentioned the R1 Stormtrooper, a slightly modernised version which has extra details, sharper lines, but is more limited in availability with 2 main makers currently available. Which ever way you go, you will have a far more accurate Stormtrooper than the old FX kit. Looking forward to seeing which way you go and watching you progress on a new build.

100% that is leather or pleather to get those textures

Hi Jeff, welcome to FISD. As you are fast realising, there are plenty of members here more than happy to answer all your questions. Do ask as many as you need, advice will continue to come. I hope you enjoy your new journey to becoming a Stormtrooper.

The top of the thighs, if you check movie references, had all the return edge removed, but many do leave some to give the armour the appearance of thickness. If you can get away with leaving some, generally 4 or 5 mm is enough, but you can remove it all, At the top of the Greaves you do want to leave the return edge, this area should be thicker, so I'd leave at least 10 mm. The bottom of the Greaves don't require any, and you will find it more comfortable to remove it all and less damaging to your boots.

Francois, you have gone all out on this built, this is seriously good stuff. To say I'm impressed would be an understatement. Fantastic work and great details in this build thread, I'm sure this is going to make it easier for other potential builders.

Welcome to FISD Laura!

Good observation Chris, still hoping we get some real info on the Kama. I'll be sure to share if it comes through.

This is of tremendous help so far Francois. I'll start to add text into the first post but we can continue to look at and discuss references to bring this up to where it needs to be so we can present it to the LMO team in the near future. Glen has a good point with the reference images , they certainly are our guide to written text and description. Keep up the stellar work on this.