russellr2d2

BACK TO THE SHINS CLOSING: Ok, I have installed big industrial type Velcro inside the back of the shins to keep them from popping open. Here is how they look. I think they will stay closed nicely and will have a sleek look without Velcro or bra hooks showing from outside. I still need to troop them to be sure of this idea!!! Slightly opened with the Velcro flap still loose. How the shins look from the outside. The big back seam is shut tight! ( The way is shut... and the dead keep it shut) Remember they have a "double cover strip locking system" I found this in someone else's build thread !!! SORRY!! I can't find it to credit them with the idea of the two cover strips and the shin locking between them. I am just building on the idea with the Velcro tab inside. Both cover strips are glued onto the same side and the shell of the shin slides between them to lock it closed.

I decided to use snap plates in everything I can. I think this will allow later re-dos of the strap length if needed. I just make a new snap strap and snap it in. Thats the idea anyway. A snap plate going in on the forearm. I sanded rounded corners and smoothed off all the edges so the plat will not catch my undersuit. Usiong LOTS of e6000 under the snap plates because they do not lay flat. It works.

No apologies ! You are of great help here. I will strap it up aligned then and the two pieces very close together. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Correcion too! I have seen many Centurion applications where they lined up the covers strips. I guess it looks better to have them aligned but you are correct it does not allow the arm to be bent. I does seem I could align the cover strip but rotate the bicep and forearm together to allow the arm to bend normally. But then the arm does not align with the shoulder bell ridge. I tend to go along with you on how the arms should align because that is what we see in the movies. But, I have seen comment on some centurion applications that the alignment is preferred. Thank you! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I like to youse E6000 because you can pull it off and try again. Good idea here for getting a tight even pressure on the nylon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do over on the arm strapping with photos! OK try again. this time first with tape as a mock up. I lined up the cover strip on the top of the arm. Here is how the arm hangs by the strap (tape for now) On my arm... The elastic will bend like this...

DO OVER!!! Got some advice from Ukswrath about the elastics. So I went out an checked them and decided to try another elastic and position. So I pulled out the elastic before the E6000 dries and cleaned up the glue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

THANK YOU FOR THE COMPLIMENTS EVERYONE.... My head is getting too big for my bucket! Starting the strapping ! EDIT!!!: I took all the blk elastic off the forearms because ukswrath & I determined I had it on the wrong place. So right now I have this at the biceps. Maybe snaps in the forearm would be easier later on? Or just glue it to the forearm and have the arms connected forever? What do you guys recommend? Shoulder bells snap plates going in. The plates are long but thin. Used LOTS of E6000. Close up of a C clamp on the shoulder bells snap plat at the top of the bell. Another goes at the lower part to connect to the top of the forearm.

Ahhhhh geeeeeeee I do it so others can see what I do and laugh... errr, I mean learn! I am getting all kinds of advice here. I even had a great phone conversation with ukswrath and learned a thing or two! Like I have said before...this is too fun! Thanks, Russell

inside cover strip: The inside cover strip gives the piece extra strength and a place to rest the loose half of plastic while you glue the two halves together....something to press the loose edge against while you clamp and glue. -First glue in the inside cover strip on just one side. Let dry a couple days. -Then put the two loose halves together and glue and clamp, front side only for now. -Wait a couple days with E6000 and then glue on the outside cover strip. The outside strip gives the seam extra strength. Clamp for a couple days. -THEN close up the back with same steps. Gluing in one side of the inner cover strip. Inner strip in and glued both sides. Clamp for a couple days before taking them off. The outer strip lays ready to be attached. Add the outer strip before going on to try to close up the piece. In this photo I have not yet added the back inner strip. First do that before trying to close it up. PULL the two halves together. Use tape, clamps, magnets ....whatever you need to get the two halves together and the seam must be flat! You need to clamp the seam so the two halves meet flat or your outside cover strip will not lay correctly. You can sand the raised seam a bit to make it flat but only a bit. I did on all my seams to smooth out any glue mess. I used some CA glue in this seam it was so crabby about going together . (Don't stand next to me!!!!! ) CA glue in here. Sanded flat later before adding cover strip. A final outside front cover strip goes on last. This provides extra strength to the seam. Let all this dry a couple-three days.

See my build thread for my ATA armor. I used some pretty hefty C clamps to get one of the thighs together. Also the inside cover strip lets you have a piece to brace the shell of the arm or leg piece against while clamping and gluing the two halves together. It really helps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I will be there but... Dare I say here in the midst of the Empire?! .... I will be working with the R2Builders pretty much the whole show Thursday and Friday. But I'll drop by and meet my soon to be brothers. I have a build thread going on the boards. Ready to strap up my armor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks.... WOW! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just noticed you do not have INSIDE cover strips. You should use them. Makes life easier!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wrap it up in tape squeezed together so the ends overlap a bit and dunk in a bucket of steamy hot water. Try about 5sec. Then run cold water on it. See how that does. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Painted Ab buttons while I wait for some strap material to arrive. Thought I could do this while I watch TV but, it took all of about 10 minutes to do. The paints are from Trooperbay. Humbrol paints are really nice quality, super smooth and when they dry they lay flat without brush marks. All done! Just covering the tops of the buttons. Let them dry overnight ...mandatory for the paint to flow out.

I just received a pair of TK's "seconds". They are top quality with a little scuff a little wrinkles. The type of thing you will get wearing them for minutes of trooping. I say go ask if he has your size and go for it! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, might as well. The building is really the same as I see it. "Real" (rubber) hand guards will come later. For now I will get basic approval then re-apply with the rubber hand guards for ESB then Cent.. However, as I build I want to use the correct rivets, elastics, and doo-hickeys for Centurion approval.

Small parts building today. Hand gards The drop boxes will be 15MM thick. Thats all today!

Got me boots! Shiny !

I re shaped mine squeezing it into a more round shape and heating it up. I put it in my vice to squeeze it into a more round shape heated it up and left it overnight. The next morning it fit much better. Steamy hot water would do the same but you need to get it into a vice or squeeze it some how as I did in my bench vice until it cools. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wasent my idea either ! [emoji51] This whole thing is about closing the back of the shins as well as the thighs. At least give the illusion they are glued shut. Hope it works!! I need to get some white webbing to lay across the joint inside. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk EDIT: If anyone has seen another build where the person did this "double cover strip" locking thing it is probably where i got the idea. If YOU did this thread...chime in ! I cannot remember were I saw it here but I was looking at build threads and saw this idea. Now I am trying to expand on it and make it stay together with straps or other and keep that nice clean flat look outside, no visible hooks or Velcro.

Thanks Bone for the suggestions! I had a phone conversation with Ukswrath and we decided to keep them closed a webbing strap inside same as I show with the elastic inside at the top ought to do it. Just glue down one side and use industrial Velcro on the other. Drop dead simple. The reason i do not want to use bra hooks is that they will force the outer cover strip to lift off the surface of the shin and you will see a gap or at least holes where the hook goes through. The idea of the double cover strip is that the outer strip is held tight and flat as if it were glued down, giving a solid closed/clean look. I got the double cover strip idea from someone here but, I can't remember where. Somebodies build thread. I am just adding an idea to keep them closed up and that outer cover strip flat/closed. Thanks! Russell

Back to the shins closing feature... I want an elastic strap to keep the back closed but flex as the originals did. My double cover strip idea leaves nowhere to put in bra hooks to I need an alternative method to keep the backs closed. I first though of an elastic with snaps as the easiest method and quick. But, the snaps themselves proved to be too bulky and tall inside the shin. my leg would rub against them all day as I walk. Probably not too comfortable. The snap idea was also too tall and shows from the outside. My idea is now to use a wide elastic with Velcro on the inside cover strip. The right side of the elastic in this photo will be glued down flat. and the left side under my fingers will have a 1" wide Velcro (maybe wider???). The elastic will be placed so it is under just slight tension at all times and holds the back of the shins closed and pulls them together when they open as I walk. I need the backs not to pull open and come apart from the double cover strips because if they pop out too far they will not go back together. They just jam up against the the two cover strips and not close back up. Something has to prevent them from opening up too much.

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