trooper96

So, I got a brown box Friday with goodies inside!

Nicely done!

I ordered 2m of US52 and 4m of SWR149. It was a little more than was needed to do 5 helmets.

OK, I have decided to go in a completely different direction. Today I ordered this... http://www.apexgunparts.com/submachine-guns/sterling-l2a3-mkvi/sterling-l2a3-smg-parts-set-9x19-nato-4833.html I'll put my blaster back together and start a new thread when my kit arrives. Thanks again for the great advice!

http://sealsdirect.co.uk/shopping.asp?intDepartmentId=4 ANH TK: Brow US52 Neck SWR149

The trooper on the left gets that look a lot, even out of costume.

One of our many fans... Gotta get that chest plate locked down... Trooper on the left is having a wardrobe malfunction... LOL!

Dancing trooper, anyone?

Our troops have invaded a youth camp at the White Oak Conference Center near Winnsboro, SC.

Our Vader is fading fast at this point... yeah, a little hot in the suit. Troopers are still going strong!

Here's another picture. There was a constant swarm of kids and adults wanting their picture made with us. Here, this little guy is ready, but his sister is not quite sure about standing so close to Vader...

Funny story... One of the guys was on his way to the staging area before the parade, and got a call from his wife. She said, "Honey, you left your thermal detonator at the house." We wondered if somewhere in the Star Wars universe, troopers commuting to their jobs on the Death Star or some other post might often get a similar call from their wives...

Parade and town festival.

I know metal pipe is not the easiest material to work with, but this appears to be very close to the correct dimensions: 1.51" [38,35mm] OD 1.38" [35,05mm] ID Has anyone ever tried this? http://www.homedepot.com/p/Allied-Tube-Conduit-1-1-4-in-EMT-Conduit-101576/100400410#specifications Maybe too heavy? 18-1/2" of this would weigh 1.5 pounds before drilling.

Walt, I use photobucket as well, and I can't get the insert image icon in this forum to paste links I to my messages. I have to do it manually. I copy the link from photobucket and paste it into my message with "open bracket"img"close bracket" before and "open bracket"/img"close bracket" after.

Did you tell them the Emperor was displeased with their apparent lack of progress? That should have motivated them to double their efforts!

Here's the kidney plate assembled with the torso armor. Wow, I didn't realize how round my midsection was until I saw this. I should really consider losing weight! As you can see, this was the test piece. There is still some uneven textured places. I will use this for our 4th of July parade and fix it later.

Looks really good!

According to the CRL, the highest level of accuracy in building a suit of armor requires that, ideally, there should be no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor. For me, that would mean shimming the kidney plate. That seemed like a lot of work, especially to make it look seamless. If the kidney plate had just a few more inches of wrap, it would make it easier on people like me, who are not the ideal size to fit the armor. I started a project to make a kidney plate with at least 6" more wrap. That would close up my gap nicely with a little to spare. Here are a couple of pictures of a pull we made this weekend from a rough sculpt. Still some uneven places that need to be smoothed out, as well as some texturing from the mold that will need to be sanded away. I did a trial fit with an ab plate, and it appears to function nicely.

Unfortunately, I am still in the process of working toward approval and do not have a legion ID. Thanks for the suggestion. I will be sure to access it in the near future.

A friend of mine recently acquired a green screen and the accompanying software for editing pictures and videos. I am looking for high resolution Star Wars background pictures that we can edit ourselves into. Any ideas where such a thing might be available online? I thought it might also be cool to have one like this below, maybe without the action figure and the clear plastic part on the card.

Thanks for the advice, everyone!

Which is a good shore hardness to use?

On an impulse (and maybe a fit of bad judgment), I broke apart my beautiful scratch built E-11 blaster (pictured above) with the bright idea that I would make molds from the parts to make resin copies to share with some friends. Here is a picture of the carnage below: The blaster was constructed with plastic sheet, wood, hardware, and whatever else I could find, from templates found on the Blaster Builders Club forum and from this site. It’s not a perfect clone of a screen used blaster like some of the commercially available resin kits, but I tried to pay close attention to all the details, and I am rather proud of the result. Here are a few progress pics of my build: OK, this is where your expertise will really help me: 1. Making the molds... This is what I can get locally http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/high-strength-3-mold-making-rubber-181719/ for about $20 a pound with a coupon. Is there a less expensive option for molding rubber? 2. Prepping the parts... I know I will have some spaces to fill. I don’t want to permanently fill them, as I would like to reassemble the blaster when this project is done. What would you recommend?

Brow trim is Seals Direct US52 1,5mm thick at top 6mm thick at bottom 15mm wide http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/shopping.asp?intDepartmentId=3