Dark CMF

Putting the armor back together. You've pretty much seen this before, but I did the work (and this WAS the annoying part - let me tell you, Split Rivets are easier to install than they are to remove, that's saying something. ) so I'm going to share it with you here. That's what I do. LoL Three new Split Rivets installed in the left side of the Kidney Plate. Next, the elastic bands are placed on the split rivet posts/arms. Then, place the rivet retaining strip over the rivet, followed by the washer. I used a large screwdriver to spread the arms of the rivet and pry them to the sides for flattening. Repeat the process two more times, for the remaining rivets. Note the blue tape to hold the retaining strips in place while I worked on the rivets. Tape (or magnets) is your friend! Here you can see the pliers being used to flatten the rivet arms. This is very easy to do - on the first side that you assemble, and on that side only. Note that I have the elastic folded over twice to prevent damaging the rivet or the armor with the pliers. Completed assembly of the armor's left side hinge. To install the rivets on the other side, I used the same process until the pliers would have been involved. For the other side, I used a hammer and the large screwdriver to place those rivets. Left side of the armor, awaiting paint for the rivets. Right side of the armor with the notch. One last little bit of work to share tonight, and that's coming in my next post...

Moving on to the ABS paste experiment. I look back and realize that I've got some different sized pictures. This has never happened before. The difference: I was using my iPad to take a bunch of the pictures. Those ones are smaller than the normal pictures I take with our camera. Anyway: ABS paste... So, here we see a baby food jar with some ABS scraps cut up into relatively uniformly sized pieces to ensure even melting, and some more scrap ABS waiting to be sacrificed for the greater good. This is the jar with all of the ABS cut up into pieces and placed inside of it. I have the bottle of pure acetone standing to the right, and a pair of wooden chopsticks that will be used for stirring and applying the ABS paste to the armor. I made sure to use a material that would not be melted down by the Acetone, for stirring and applying. The color variation caused by that would completely ruin my ABS paste, as I couldn't use green paste on my armor. I initially used just enough Acetone to cover the scrap pieces. Ultimately, I would wind up adding about half as much again later, as it was just too thick to use. However, it is probably simpler to add a little bit of Acetone until you have a good blend as opposed to cutting up more ABS. Within minutes (literally) you can see the ABS is beginning to break down. After 30 minutes, the ABS is nearly completely dissolved in the Acetone, but there are some chunks in the bottom of the jar. One and a half hours later, the ABS is completely dissolved, but my paste has the consistency of marshmallow fluff. It is just too thick to use, so I put in the additional Acetone at this point. Rather than make my first attempts at this on my actual armor, I choose to use the two rivet retaining strips that I use in the left side of my armor. So, I filled the holes and very clearly in this picture, I filled one of them incorrectly. Thankfully I caught that about an hour or two later and was able to correct it with relative ease. If you've never worked with ABS paste before, it isn't that difficult. I'd never done so before this particular work had to be done - hence my use of the term "experiment." You can look it up on YouTube, and find several videos that show how to do it, but I've explained it pretty clearly here. Put the ABS in a non-plastic jar, pour the Acetone on it. Wait. That's pretty much all there is to it. You'll just have to find the right amount to add to it to get the consistency that you want. I used the blue painter's tape to cover one side of the hole and then used the end of the chopstick to fill the hole as needed. Back to the work du jour! So, as some of you might expect, and I did not, the blue painter's tape did a decent job, but the weight of the paste started to cause it to sag just a little bit which was causing the tops of the armor to have tiny divots in it as it was drying. To alleviate this, I took cotton balls, and taped them to the back of the armor, under the filled holes. This kept good consistent pressure on the blue painter's tape at the bottom of each of the repair areas. Fast forward about 30 hours, and I'm prepared to begin sanding and repairing the surface with the Novus 1,2,3 polish system. The Kidney Plate, with the tape and cotton balls removed, prior to sanding it. The Abdomen Plate, prior to sanding and polishing. Abdomen Plate, after sanding and polishing. There really isn't any need for the Novus 1 in this process. Depending on how heavily you sand the armor you're going to need a lot of Novus 3, and even more Novus 2 to get the fine scratches out, and get it to shine. When you sand the armor, sand in one direction only. Either go up/down, or left/right. This is because of how you apply the Novus 3, which is at right angles to the scratches. You'll be happy that you chose to go in one direction only when it comes time to use the Novus. That's the ABS paste work... I'll post this, and move up to reassembling the armor with the new Split Rivets momentarily.

So yeah... Centurion build upgrades. I said that I did them (except for that annoying paint stuff - I'll get to that soon enough), and you know that I took pictures. Here they are: The first order of business in upgrading my armor from EIB to Centurion was to remove the wrist's return edges completely. I originally had return edges in the "rails" of the forearms. I began with the razor knife, and trimmed it down a bit and then just held it level and made circular motions on a sheet of sandpaper until I was happy with them. Then I took some fine sandpaper and cleaned up the edges on the insides of the wrists. I've got to add that it is pretty amazing how much more easily my forearms are to put on, or take off after making that little change. It also makes putting my gloves on much easier, too. The single biggest reason for the delay in my upgrade to Centurion. Two words: The Notch. Here, you can see that I have cut the notch out of the left hand side of my armor for starters. When I did so, I lost the location of a split rivet. You can see the hole in the cut-out piece of the armor. Now, the notch is supposed to be 22MM x 22MM. I cut mine at 20 x 20 because I fully intended to add a return edge to the notches, for continuity in my armor. Left notch is cut out, but does not have a return edge on/in it - yet. To put the return edge into the notch, I took the heat-sealing iron (visible in the forearm return edge picture) and set it to medium-high heat. When it was warmed sufficiently, I began applying light pressure on the edge of the notch, until it folded in about 2MM. Then I moved to the other side of the notch and did the same thing. I made sure to get the corner lined up when I did this for a smooth edge throughout. Here, it is unsanded. The same return edge, after sanding. Right side notch, cut to 20MM x 20MM, no return edge applied. Return edge applied and cleaned up. While working on this one, I didn't realize that I'd accidentally turned up the heat on the iron. That resulted in the inconsistent edge if you look around the corner. A part heated a bit too much and simply fell away. I did what I could to shape it properly, but once the plastic is gone, it is gone. It still turned out alright. The Abdominal Plate, with all of the rivet holes drilled (old ones, and new ones). The Kidney Plate with the two new holes drilled, and the old center hole covered with blue painter's tape so it can be filled with ABS paste. That's all of the physical armor work. I'll begin the ABS paste experience in the next post.

Many people (myself included) use Novus 3 part polishing system. It can be found on Amazon: --------------

Michael, Simply do a member search here, and go to his member profile. There, you'll be able to send him a message.

I am currently a Master Sergeant in the United States Army. I began my career with dreams of being in radio (DJing/broadcasting, etc..) so I started in that field, working with Single Sideband Radios, Teletype Systems, and Satellite communications systems. (I had a touchscreen in 1991 - we're talking high tech here. ) I took a short break to go to school, and after nine months realized that I needed to be back in the Army, so I went back to the recruiter's offices and when I went to the processing station they told me that I could not have my old job back. That was fine with me, but I wanted a "nice" job this time, something that didn't crawl around the woods so much. They offered me five different jobs: Stinger Operator (which meant I'd be crawling in the woods); Bradley Fighting Vehicle Crewman (which meant I would drive out to the woods, where I could then crawl around a lot); Trombone Player (I was all for that. They didn't feel like teaching me to play however, so that didn't happen); Satellite Communications Systems Repairer - which I was all over, but after I said I'd take it, they told me I couldn't have that job, because of the required contract length; and finally Air Traffic Controller. My immediate thought process went like this: Well, they use radios, so they have to have air conditioning. I guess they make pretty good money in the "real" world. You can't land a plane in the woods. I'll take it!! The rest, is history. I was an Air Traffic Controller (by trade, if not position) from 1994 up until 2012 when I was promoted out of that job, and I became an Aviation Operations Specialist. My current position is a liaison position with the Federal Aviation Administration.

Tony... Here you go: They're about 3/8" across. As for moisture/water proof. They're slim plastic as you see, with a rubberized disc, so they appear to be moistureproofed to an extent. I've had no issues with them acting up after hours of wear and sweat in the bucket. I don't know if I'd feel confident enough to wear my bucket under water, but I expect that they'll hold up for trooping.

Warm fuzzies is a term that you used, not me. Those speakers came with the kit. Skyminer sells them with two optional sizes for both Microphones, and speakers. The green ones in my helmet are the "Slim-Line Speakers." For reference, I have the larger microphones, and the smaller speakers. People using the smaller microphones typically mount those in the frown from what I've seen.

OMG David!! So excited for you. I know that feeling all too well! Truth be told, I was in the Alabama Garrison forums within the last week or so, looking to see if you'd said anything about receiving your kit yet. I know that there were some delays for Rob in the past couple of months, but I wanted to see how you were doing. Very excited to see your post here today!! I'm not there locally anymore, but don't hesitate to reach out for help if you need it! I won't turn my back on a Cadet, and I won't forget where I came from. Looking forward to your build thread!!!

Thank you, Hans. Seriously, this might be my favorite post on FISD ever. It's been in my head since I read it after you posted it, and I just had to come back and say this: This post, this one right here, that I quoted... This is exactly why we are going to positively own 2015 here at FISD! I'm comfortable speaking for the Staff when I say that we are not going to let you down, and you will see an improved FISD.

There were no heat issues at all. What I wound up doing was picking up some batting gloves at a local sporting goods store, and I used black duct tape to get everything in place, and Velcro for the board and the battery box. The board and battery box are located in my bicep, and the wiring runs down to my hand. That glove is the issue. Because I used duct tape, it is very bulky and restricts my movement a little bit. I've used it for three troops, and I will say that it was effective and loud enough in the quieter environments, but in a Comic-Con setting where everything was loud, it wasn't quite enough to have major impact. I'm still trying to figure out a way to mount it better. Someone mentioned E6000, and that might be a decent idea actually. More to follow as I get back to working on it. Right now, I'm all about those Centurion modifications!

Welcome aboard, XO!! I'm one of those ones that share your earliest memories of the TK, so I feel exactly where you're coming from. Let's do this!!

I demand video!!

Technically, I made two of them. LoL I seriously thought I might vomit when preparing for those ones. EDIT: Additionally, the system takes up a surprisingly small amount of space. It can be reduced even more if you use the installation method used by ukswrath, and install the mics in the actual ears. Mine is installed as it is, so that it will be easily transferrable between my Hero and Stunt buckets when I get around to making my Stunt belt.

Congratulations on the win, boss!! Thank you for bringing me to the FISD Staff. We've got plenty of work to do to serve our Troopers and Cadets, and I'm already kicking around some ideas on how to get us there! Big, big year ahead for the FISD! Let's tackle it head on!!!

LoL... I trooped with a Vader that refused to allow any tall troopers to stand immediately next to him in for any of the photo ops. We were relegated to the flanks, even though he was probably about 6'6" or 6'7" in costume. Of course, we made it a point to direct short troopers away from the area on occasion. Just because.

Before I get to the Centurion upgrades, it dawned on me that I hadn't posted the installation of the Environmental Audio System (EAS) sold by Skyminer (http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/25695-environmental-audio-system-hear-outside-your-helmet/page-4#entry387782) in the helmet yet, so I'll do that first. Here, you see the components of the EAS laid out and ready for installation. L to R, the speakers, the EAS board, and the battery box. Above it are the instructions and the bag. Here is my first test fit for the system. I have placed the battery box in the left side of the crown of the helmet, and the EAS in the right side of the crown. The mic array wires are visible beneath the EAS board. I did not mock up or test the speaker placement until they were installed and functional so I could work to eliminate any feedback that I may have experienced. The components of the system are being installed using black industrial strength peel and stick Velcro. Here, I have both pieces on the back of the battery box, so that I can ensure that the two pieces line up for installation. Here, the main components have been installed. You can see the battery boxes for my Echo fans (previously installed above) are positioned to keep the back padding tightly in place. In this picture, I have pulled the microphones up so that they can be routed to the appropriate areas of the helmet. You can see the right-side speaker (green circle) is initially installed in between the lens and the fan battery box. Clearly here both speakers are installed in front of the batteries. At this point in time, I grabbed a hold of what equates to an "air-sickness bag" and prepared for the next step. That is, indeed, a 5/16" drill bit. I cannot even begin to tell you the dread/nausea associated with drilling the holes in the bucket for the mic installation. It was easily far worse than trying to make the first cut on the armor. So horrible. I said a quick prayer, and started to drill (slowly) the hole for the right side microphone. Mission complete, and I kept my dinner down. If you look at the padding just behind the lens on the right hand side, you'll see the wire for the microphone. It is the silver wire with a red end near the lens. The same wire is visible on the left, but not quite as much. Here's a look at the outside of the helmet, behind the brow trim. Microphone installed. Brow trim put back in place, concealing the microphone. Left side microphone in place. Upon testing the system at this point in time, I discovered that I was getting a pretty fair amount of feedback so I set about finding ways to reduce/mitigate it. First, I took an EVA foam floor mat that you'd put in your home gym or your garage, and cut the end off of one of the trim pieces. I then cut that piece in half, giving me two identical pieces, one for each microphone. I cut a channel for the wiring (cuts going "up") and a circular shape for the microphone into both pieces of the foam. So I was left with two of these. I placed one around each of the microphones and ran the wiring down that channel. As my lens covers the area of the installation, this foam isolated the microphones from the rest of the inside of the helmet enough to substantially reduce the feedback I was receiving, but I was still getting it intermittently. My next move to eliminate the feedback was to switch the batteries and the speakers location. This provided a little more distance between the speakers and the microphones, and placed a small, but very effective physical barrier in between the two, shielding the speaker noise from the microphones just enough to all but eliminate the feedback. Adjusting the volume until the tiniest amount of feedback is present before I put the helmet on removes it completely when I am wearing it. Left side speaker location. Right side speaker location. You can again see the microphone location, by looking at the red wire above the back of the lens. That's my EAS installation. I cannot begin to describe how highly I recommend this system. It really is a game changer when you're trooping. Thanks for checking it out! Centurion upgrades will be the next update to the thread. Coming very soon - notches!! (No, not nachos... I'm fresh out of those.)

I almost feel bad sometimes, trooping with anyone who is "the right height" because it seems like the public doesn't say a word to them about it until I show up playing "tower trooper." After I arrive, it's the first thing we hear.

Troopers helping Troopers!!! Bring it on!!

Looking good Walter, very happy to see your application!! Good luck!!

Great work, Carl!! It is quite beautiful, excellent, excellent, excellent! Don't be afraid of drilling holes in a Doopydoos kit. Don't ever be afraid. LoL.

I am truly excited about it, and greatly looking forward to meeting so many Legion members. Out of curiosity, is there a place set up for our family to spectate, so that they can get good pictures,,or do they have to fight for space up front?

Man, that's looking great!!!

That all depends... Happy wife, Happy life!

So, about that Centurion level work that I said I'd get to... Updates coming very soon. At the moment, my armor is in a few more pieces than usual, but my kidney plate has notches on both sides. There are no split rivets on the pieces of the left side, because I've still got to learn/apply/clean up the ABS paste, and re-assemble it but it is done otherwise. I'll also be attempting a slight alteration to my original strapping system which will hopefully bring my chest plate down a little bit lower over my abdominal plate. Then, of course, there's the painting. But... much work done tonight, many pictures taken, by the end of the weekend, there should be a story to tell here. Thanks for checking in. Again, more to follow!