mikedwelle94

Been thinking about building this one for a while, and finally got around to it. The costume is very nearly done, or at least we thought it was until we did our first test run. My partner is a little short and skinny for a Stormtrooper at about 5'8'' and 110 lbs. There is still much trimming and re-sizing to do on this Anovos kit (thank goodness for E-6000), but we can see the light at the end of the tunnel. This costume is basically a TK Commander but without the blue stripes. No one's done this one before (to my knowledge), so we'll need to make a new CRL. Most of it should be an easy copy+paste of the requirements from the Commander, and I'll provide the CRL pictures once we're ready to suit up for approval pics.

Didn't want to be THAT guy, but you should hold up a minute on all of this. You can't use any of these images as official reference. These are fan-made skin mods for Star Wars Battlefront. And a screengrab from Gerry's Mod? The only game the Stormtrooper Commander officially appeared in is Star Wars: The Force Unleashed. Therefore you should only be using assets from that game to make decisions on CRL changes.

Get your application pictures taken without a weapon, get approved, then troop with whatever you want (within reason + ask your garrison leadership). Only time you need to worry about weapons in CRLs is when you're applying for Level 2 EIB or above.

Hey peeps, figured I'd update this thread for anyone who hasn't seen my stuff on Instagram. My armor is basically there, save for a couple minor strapping issues and a couple dead LED strips. Once that's sorted out, I'm gonna send a new round of pictures to our LMOs and hopefully get this approved. I took this out for its first test drive this past Saturday at a local convention in Portland, Maine. Biggest issue I had was my powerbanks falling out and swinging around outside my kit, but I have a fix in mind for that. Also need to chop an inch or so off the tops of the thighs to improve mobility. Had a lot of fun though, and the armor was a hit. It was nice to be the very first TFU Shadow most people have ever seen! Hopefully more of us start popping up once we get that CRL green-lit!

Last I heard, Rocky has been having some issues with his Messenger app. You can PM Ericia or Matt - either of them can help you out!

The only time you see any trooper in TFU carrying a lightsaber is when you (Starkiller) are wearing the costume in game. There are no scenes or situations where you find these guys carrying sabers of their own. If I carried a saber with my TFU Shadow armor (which I totally plan to do), I would feel like I'm portraying Starkiller more than the trooper who would never use one as part of his arsenal.

My costume is getting close to done. Things to do: - Mask off and paint transparent armor. Followed by black acrylic wash, then clear coat - Give thigh armor and thermal detonator black acrylic wash, then clear coat - Implement solution to prevent eyes from being seen in helmet - Mount LED strips to armor. Velcro USB powerbanks inside armor - Drill hidden holes in thigh and kidney for LED wire connection to batteries inside the armor - Strap shoulder bells to shoulder bridges - Strap shoulders to biceps - Glue elastic straps under the handplates for use on rubber chemical gloves - Paint red stripe on boots - Submit application!

I want it. I would probably call it a TK rather than a CT, because these events take place after Order 66 and the rise of the Empire. These guys are Imperial Stormtroopers, just in a sort-of transitional stage between armors.

Hey FISD! This is Mike, from the New England Garrison. I am a bigger fan of the more infrequent Stormtrooper armors seen in Star Wars lore, so you'll probably never see me in the clean (however iconic) white armor. I've been lurking around on the forums since 2013, and finally got my zombie Death Trooper approved on January 2016. It's not the ideal primary trooping costume, so I have added a Spec Ops Magma Trooper which cleared in February 2017. I am currently finishing up a Shadow Stormtrooper from The Force Unleashed video game which should be done by this May 4th!

That doesn't seem right. Mine was only put in there for the sake of having something there temporarily. They said it would be replaced soon... back in August 2016 lol.

I think my old Shock Trooper kit is still the CRL model. Can we replace that with someone else's? Maybe@humperdingle? My armor was never even approved as a costume and his kit looks a lot better than mine did. Sent from my SCH-R530U using Tapatalk

We need your kit to be the CRL model. Mine is up last I checked and it was never even approved as a costume. Sent from my SCH-R530U using Tapatalk

Re-did the helmet paint job and lightly weathered with black acrylic wash. The same idea will be applied to the rest of the armor. I'm already done with the torso plates. And now everything's installed in the bucket except a chin strap and helmet fans. However, it only looks good when I'm not wearing it.....and I kind of knew it would be like that ahead of time. So I guess I'll need some mirrored blue lenses! Hopefully light will get through those. The lights are bright enough to look good indoors. Probably out in broad daylight too, but I haven't tested that yet.

It may be somewhat of an unpopular opinion, but I'm of the mind that if you want to build to Centurion, then you should save up and buy that kit that will get you there. It may lock a few ANH-based kits out of the running for Centurion, sure, and that does kinda suck. But I was led to believe that Centurion requirements are to be based on what you see on screen, not on availability (or lack of availability) of eligible armor kits. I agree in that it seems unfair, but you can get around that by saving up to get that ROTJ CFO or TM kit shipped from across the pond. To me the only parts on the suit that scream ANH to me are the helmet, belt, and handplates. It's just as hard to see evidence of cover strips as it is to see overlaps due to the limitations of those '08 game graphics. It makes a bit more sense to go with overlaps because you *can* make it out on at least a couple parts while there are a bunch of other ROTJ elements present on the armor at the same time. Either way, it certainly won't matter to the general public. They'll see that well-built ANH based Stormtrooper Commander or Incinerator and it will still produce the same "wow" factor. And unless I'm mistaken, butt-join and cover strips are still allowed for Expert Infantry which is good enough for most of us. Do a lot of people still buy ATA armor? From experience I can say that can be built with overlaps. Most of my Shock Trooper parts were ATA and they turned out fine. I don't know about WTF though, but I would think you probably could if it's at all similar to ATA. I guess I'll find out when my WTF parts arrive

I'll be picking up a shiny new Anovos OT TK kit soon from a local Wampa Clan merc, and I decided to build it as one of these Force Unleashed troopers. I have a pretty good handle on how TFU and ROTJ troopers are put together, so this one should be a walk in the park. Kashyyyk Trooper: Phase III Stormtrooper: Both armor sets are identical, so I will have two costumes from one armor kit and two helmets. A Hasbro Black Series helmet will be used for the KTK. For the $26 I spent on it (due to a non-working speaker which I was gonna tear out anyway), it will serve as a good base and a fun project. I filled in the tube stripes, battery compartment, and speaker holes with ABS slurry. I also started extending the bottom of the neck opening with some plastic "for sale" signs and more thick ABS slurry. It's kind of rough right now, but it'll look flawless and seamless once sanded down. The vocoder is also pretty tiny on this helmet, so I chopped off the bottom part of it and replaced the void with... you guessed it -- ABS slurry. Going to put down a few more coats of that before I sand it smooth. The frown is also gone. Filled in with slurry almost to the point where you can't even tell it was there. It's completely different on this helmet so I'm going to carve out a new one. Just a couple progress shots to show what general direction this helmet is headed in. I will need to carve out the sunk-in details on the back of the helmet and work material back in to get that 3D look - there, and on the faceplate where some holes are already carved out. The black marking under the lens will also have to be sunk in a little bit and painted 1138 grey. Once assembled back together, the seam between the cap and the back will be filled in and the whole helmet will be sprayed a khaki color and masked off for paint chips.

Combing through a set of hi-res images, the only place where overlaps are kinda obvious are on the back of the thighs. Really hard to tell everywhere else

Is it safe to say we could build to Centurion with either cover strips *OR* overlaps, since it's hard to tell either way? I'm going to be starting a Phase III + KTK build soon using an Anovos kit and I want to be sure I'm doing it the right way from the start.

Looked like fun. Love seeing the lightsaber in action! Well done NEG

That's what I was thinking. It's a costume a ton of people have already built but just painted differently. Aside from the KTK helmet being a totally different sculpt. One person could easily add two new costumes to the legion with one armor kit and two helmets. I'll get a KTK/Phase III TK build thread posted up as soon as I pick up my Anovos kit within the next couple weeks.

Thanks, Brien. I appreciate that a lot!

Necro bump. If anyone out there can update this thread with working pictures, that would be very helpful. I'm picking up an Anovos kit secondhand and decided to build this costume.

Description: Stormtrooper: The Force Unleashed Prefix: TK Detachment: First Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment Context: The Force Unleashed For 501st membership only the requirements in black need to be met. FISD Defines additional, optional levels of costuming excellence. In the page below, requirements for Level 2 "Expert Infantry" are listed in blue. Requirements for Level 3 "Centurion" are listed in red. Please visit the FISD web site for a full description of these standards. Special Notes: Visit the Frequently asked questions page for information on the Rubies Supreme Stormtrooper costume. Blasters are not required for legion membership per our weapons policy. The armor parts shall be made from one of these types of materials or like materials: White fiberglass, ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene), HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene), or Polyvinyl chloride (PVC). FX armor may not be used for Level 3 approval. FX helmet is no longer permitted for new approvals. Helmet Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are grey. Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines. Lenses are flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. The “ear” bars have three or four bumps and are grey or painted grey, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (highlighted) in black is optional. Ears shall have a black horizontal anchor-like detail on each side of the ear bar. Frown is painted grey and does not leave the teeth area. Eight total teeth on the frown are cut out. Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black. Aerators/Hovi-MIX tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black or painted black. Tears, traps, and tube stripes may be hand painted, decals, or decals that replicate hand painted. Mesh may be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer. Note: The helmet is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. - Many commercially available helmets or those considered disproportionate in size or shape are ineligible. Helmet and paint/details is lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet. Ear bars have four bumps only.Not three. Traps/tears and tube stripes shall have the correct ANH TK details Correct Aerators/Hovi MX tips. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Ear bars shall have only one or two bumps painted in black (rank stripes). Neck trim shall be of an s-type profile rather than a u-type profile. Tears/traps shall be hand painted or use decals that emulate hand painted (with correct ANH TK details). Ear screws shall be slotted, flat topped, countersunk and painted white. The vocoder must be integrated into the helmet, and not a separate piece. Neck Seal Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck. Undersuit Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs. Shoulder Straps These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. Shoulder straps are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): No visible rivets are allowed. Shoulder straps shall not have a large flat tabs at the ends of them, they shall be ribbed 100%. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Shoulder Armor One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders. Shoulder bells are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Shoulder bells have a slight outward curve with square corners not rounded. No shoulder bell straps across the biceps. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Upper Arm Armor Biceps are fully closed. Biceps are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): No shoulder bell straps across the biceps. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Forearm Armor Forearms are fully closed. Forearms are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed. Gloves Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Gloves shall be rubber or rubber like chemical gloves in black. Hand Plates Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material. Hand plates are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Hand guards shall be latex or latex-like, painted white, affixed to rubber gloves. Chest Armor Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate. A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges. Chest armor is lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Fabric or elastic strip connecting chest to back shall be either black or not present. Back Armor Back plate contains a "O II" design. A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges. The back plate is lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate. Inner recessed plate corners have black detail/weathering. There is a mall silver screw or paint/decal in the middle bottom of the inner recessed plate. Abdomen Armor Ab plate buttons shall be all black. Ab plate button detail shall be inverted compared to ANH/ESB. A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges. Ab plate is lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): There shall be no split rivet or brad visible on the crotch tab of the ab plate. The left vertical row of ab plate buttons contain five buttons (fifth button must align one button higher than the top button of the larger button plate). All buttons on the ab plate are the same size and color and are visible (not covered by the belt). There are 2 rivets on either side of the ab, approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter which are lined up with the ones on the kidney. The top rivet is 25mm from the top edge and the bottom is 25mm above the top of the belt and 20mm from the side seam, painted white (measurements are approximate). Kidney & Posterior Armor A separate kidney/butt plate is not allowed - the kidney and butt plate shall be combined/fused to a single plate/one piece. A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges. The crotch tab of the butt plate area may or may not have visible snaps. Kidney/Posterior Armor is lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The kidney and posterior shall both be either ANH (straight corners) or ROTJ (rounded corners). OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): There shall be no visible snaps, rivets or brads on the crotch tab of the butt plate tab. There are 2 rivets on either side of the kidney, these are lined up with the ones on the ab, the top rivet is roughly 25mm from the top edge and the bottom is 25mm above the top of the belt and 20mm from the side seam, painted white. Belt Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt). The soft belt proper is tightly woven nylon/cordura like/style material or material with a tightly woven nylon/cordura like/style covering. Size is 2.25" (57mm) to 2.5" (64mm) wide. The color is white to off-white. The drop boxes are white and dangle from the sides of the plastic front belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned with the end of the ammo belt. The belt may be longer than standard ANH/ROTJ with square buttons positioned close to the end of the belt. The belt material is lightly aged (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). Belt face(TK ammo belt)and drop boxes are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Leather and vinyl are not accurate. There are two square buttons, one on each end of the plastic ammo belt. There should be no center square button or rivet, it is not accurate. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle. Square buttons are positioned @10mm from the end of the belt Drop boxes are closed in the back. The belt proper shall have (eight total) white rivets. Two rivets close to each side of the thermal detonator, and two rivets approximately an inch away from the edge of the ammo belt (The rivets form a rectangular pattern) and are painted white. Game ROTJ Thermal Detonator (A.K.A. O2 canister) attaches to the center back of the belt. Detonator consists of an all grey cylinder, without silver stickers or silver paint. The cylinder is between 2” (50mm) and 2.68"(68mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end. The white control panel pad faces upwards, with the controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap. The total length is approximately 7.50" (190.5mm). The thermal detonator is attached via metal or metallic-appearing clips, approximately 1" (25mm) wide. The thermal detonator is lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). The thermal detonator may be either ROTJ or the "game style" version. The ANH/ESB style is not allowed. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Only "game style" thermal detonator can be used. Thigh Armor Thigh armor shall be closed in the back. The ammo belt shall be installed on the bottom of the right thigh. Thighs are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The thigh ammo belt shall be positioned on top of the lower ridge as seen in official references and is not rounded off like ANH. The thigh ammo is glued and has no rivets. Lower Leg Armor Greaves close in the back. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the left greave and may have two visible brads or rivets securing it to the greave. The AM greaves (shins) shall be on the proper legs, with a new cover strip. The cover strip edge shall be facing the inside of the leg. - Note: There is a manufacturer defect with the AM greaves (shins) that may cause you to wear the them improperly. Please see the Tutorial titled :"AM armor shins: the proper way to assemble and wear", on whitearmor.net Greaves are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The sniper knee plate is glued and has no rivets. Boots Boots are above ankle height and made of white leather or leather-like material. Small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle. Flat sole with a short heel. No buckles or laces. Jodhpur/ Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed. Boots are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is no seam present on the front of the boot. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Optional Accessories E-11 Blaster (ESB) Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Folding stock is placed in the closed position. No ammo counter shall be present. D-ring mounted on the rear. Sterling based blasters have the correct M-38 or M-19 style scope. The M-19 scope is preferred. No power cylinders on the magazine housing. Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered). If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side. This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Hasbro blasters are not allowed, even conversions. The blaster may have minor weathering or base metal exposure however, T-tracks and grips shall have the appearance of black plastic. E-11 Blaster (ROTJ) Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Folding stock is placed in the closed position. No ammo counter shall be present. D-ring mounted on the rear. Correct style scope. No power cylinders on the magazine housing. Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 7 U shaped channels on blaster (all holes on barrel shall be covered). If using the popular commercially available Stormtrooper blasters, you shall grind off the T-tracks and replace them with U shaped channels and cover the open rows of holes (total of 7 U shaped channels in all). Correct greeblies on the left rear area shall be present (door catch and two "hammers"). OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Folding stock shall be in the extended position. Hasbro blasters are not allowed, even conversions. The blaster may have minor weathering or base metal exposure however, T-tracks and grips shall have the appearance of black plastic. SE-14R Blaster The SE-14R blaster may be carried. It shall have a correct scope if carried in lieu of the E-11 for informal events. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Lightsaber (The Force Unleashed) The hilt is Graflex style or has the characteristics of the Graflex, (reference Luke Skywalker's lightsaber from ANH and ESB). If the lightsaber has a blade, it may be one of the color blades used in the video game, The Force Unleashed. The choice of blade colors are: Black, Blue, Green, Gold, Purple, Red and Yellow. Note: Double blades, small Yoda style lightsaber, or inexpensive non-FX Hasbro Lightsaber toys are not allowed. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The hilt shall be made to reference Starkiller's lightsaber (as seen in The Force Unleashed). If the lightsaber has a blade, it may be one of the color blades used in the video game, The Force Unleashed. The choice of blade colors are: Black, Blue, Green, Gold, Purple, Red and Yellow. UPDATED 24/9/2020 gmrhodes13 UPDATED 28/9/2020 gmrhodes13

Not trying to knock you down or anything, but I would just take a loss on those fiberglass parts. If you need replacement parts in ABS, look up Walt's Trooper Factory on Facebook and ask for Rocky. He'll get you sorted quick, and it won't break the bank.

I got a set of Rubies armor for next to nothing from a garrison member, which is great because I won't have to worry about sourcing and attaching edge trim to the plastic. I've always wanted one of these kits to tinker with. After I got done with it, it looks like what a Stormtrooper should look like. Please excuse the crappy cell phone pics for now - Drilled out all rivets - Filled in holes with ABS paste - Removed velcro from biceps and thighs - Glued both halves of biceps and thighs after trimming - Trimmed down length of plastic shoulder straps - Flipped center ab button panel and added a fifth button to the row of buttons on the right side of the abdomen armor - Removed sniper knee plate from shin. Will attach to WTF shin later - Removed existing strapping system and replaced with snaps and elastic - Removed and re-installed thigh ammo strip in correct position (Rubies installs this upside-down) - Shoulder bells, forearms, and shins will be replaced with WTF parts formed in transparent plastic. - Thermal detonator to be replaced with ATA parts and clear pipe Also got an RS Props helmet. Before: And after. I just wadded a coil of LEDs under the bucket to get an idea of what it would look like. The paintjob isn't final either. Lots of work yet to go! And Ukwrath's Hovi mic tip audio system to be installed later on.

That is an incredible result. Good luck with approval! I'm going to see if I can make a good argument over on the Spec Ops forum for this lightsaber. I really want one with a blue blade!