Dday

Aaron, I can cast you individual parts as needed as well, you don't need to get the full kit.

You look great, and very natural leading a squad of TK's!

Hi Roy, glad you made it to the FISD! Next up is the SLD for saber clips and tracks! I've seen a couple guys from there over to your store already. We love new vendors with a quality product who are into the community. I would take your data and photos to the trash compactor in the on-going threads and post up for people who are looking for these parts. Good luck!

Oh god, these molds are not the molds you are looking for... move along

I'm pretty sure he will be doing this. From our conversations he will be offering a 20m set for us E11 people, which will help drive the cost down a little.

You can make sharp edges with carbon fiber... well sharpish. You just need to have a form to lay them in, or on... but I am pretty sure it will end up being very very very.. very expensive to do this. I've seen car hoods with some pretty sharp, tight edges.

They are likely adding more time based on averages to your country. It's always possible you will get it faster... this is my guess.

I have been in contact with Roy on the RPF and am helping him to arrive here and on other 501st forums, since he has stuff applicable for us and the SLD as well. As to the cost going down over time, it might happen, but I really doubt it. The investment wasn't in him making his own equipment.... that would be ultimately more expensive. I'am sure the actual equipment is not within reach of normal mortals. He has engaged a factory-fabrication shop that has already paid the costs for this equipment, but the molds and such needed to still be made by the shop. He is paying a lot per set, and I'm sure isn't making a ton above his cost even at the prices you see. He has to make some, to even make it worth his time but trust me, he isn't getting rich here. If the costs go down over time, I think that will be up to the manufacturing shop and if it does, then my guess is he will pass this saving onto us. I have discussed the dimensions we need for the E11s as well as quantities and once he lands here he will setup his on-going thread with a link to his webshop. After talking to him about the lengths, he said he will be able to shave some off the cost of his set of 6 at 20cm, which is more them long enough for the E11s, which need 5x17cm and 1x19cm. Maybe as we go he can get them a little shorter for cheaper, but this leaves less chance for errors on the makers part, you get one bend No mistakes.

Imagine a CF e11 with resin parts, you might not even know it's in your hands, and you'll be checking your holster every 10 seconds thinking someone stole it. The majority of the weight in a real parts build comes from the base gun. My estimate is that a CF tube with real parts will probably work out to be the same weight as a full resin with aluminum tube. So real parts, resin and alu weight = win!

I just hope he stops being this moody, whiner. In ROTJ he tried to act tough but he was still a bit broody teen angsty. He has grown up a lot since then, so I am sure it will not be a problem. I' am thinking they will explore that a bit in the new film... I hope. You can't just skip 30 years and not talk about them.

It is a great setup... I can just see my tired fingers already! I would also suggest on top of using elastic.. that it is white. We can discuss back and forth regarding the black hiding against the black undersuit and so on, but they used white in the films, so I would go white.

It is an easy mistake to make when looking, but you are looking at it wrong. His is tied with a black strap and the white you see is actually the top of the bicep.

I think you need to go full real parts! If you go, go big. You will definitely have to change bits a few times while drilling it out so that you do not make any chips along the way. Looks like fun and I am watching this one!

This is in the photo references...

I had to read the start a few times before I understood you said that I was correct The whole 2 negatives cancelling to make a positive thing got me.

Ah, I understand now! Don't worry about the size of the back side of the snap, you won't use it, if you use the method I described. A snap has 4 parts, you will only use 3. The female side on the holster strap will be used as normal. but on the male side of the snap that attaches to the belt, you will only use 1 part of the snap. The male part that snaps in will go on the back of the belt and you insert a rivet through the hole on the belt and into the male end of the snap. Rivet it down and now the snap is held on tightly and you have the right look on the outside of the rivet, but the ease of using a snap on the inside.

I thought about making it this way for my kits but the cuts to the aluminum pipe could be trouble. I'm planning on doing this in a future update though, once I do some practice on the pipes. The PVC pipe might be a little easier though.

Looking very good! Excellent attention to detail. Some of those final holes can still be sanded out as they are a result of the new ABS poured in vs the first layer. You just have to feel it out though, excellent job, this could even be a tutorial with a little more work and details.

For the holster, you should use a rivet through the holster as normal, but on the other side instead of being the strap. it is the male end of the snap, the rivet goes through the snap piece to fasten it and now you can snap on your holste, and noone can tell the difference. Since the inside is not seen, you can use any size snap you want. For the belt, nothing should be seen for snaps, so it shouldn't matter. The snaps are hidden under the snap plate you glue over the cap on the 3 locations of the belt. If you're going for accurate in and out, it isn't snaps holding the ABS belt to the cloth belt. The 3 pieces that hold them together are cap rivets. Stud on one side, cap on the other. The style is like this: ----------- For the snaps that hold the whole thing onto the armor, are snaps but are hidden, so no need for white ones. Or did I completely misunderstand the meaning of white cap?

Kaleb, I would suggest you look into the Troopermaster armors. The RT is great if you have extra large parts like thighs, waist and so on and works better then the standard sizing for taller people. The TM gear is slightly larger then the standard armors, made for real people. The most important part however is that he makes a set of XL shins. They are 2 inches longer and proportionally wider than the standard shins and it really makes a huge difference. I had an RT and a TM set and based on the accuracy of the pieces and fit I sold my RT and kept the TM. The TM is more expensive but more accurate and doesn't have the waiting time of the RT (8+ months?). The biggest thing is to check your waist. I'm 6'6 (198cm) a 34W jeans with no belly bulge and the TM fit me great considering my height. My hips were the limiting factor here and if you have bigger hips, the torso will not fully close for you. You can always leave a gap on the sides or just add shims. Check me signature for the link that shows my previous builds to find my first one, that's my TM and me in it. Trust me, the XL shins are the shint!

Pretty good job. There are a few differences, but not enough to scream about.

I have been wanting to make a EP7 helmet to sell, 3D printed, mastered molded and cast... but I"m waiting for the accurate shots to surface so that it's as accurate from the start vs requiring massive changes once we have the full 360.

It's showing up for me in the new content. Do you have the options on the left of the new content to show unread, 24 hours and so on?

am2.0 is redesigned quite a bit so it is more accurate while still fitting to larger troopers on a budget. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I will say... that if you have hand painted your helmet details to the same quality/level they did in the films and you see on most builds here, the bystander can't tell the difference from 1 foot away. Same goes for the handguards, if done up right I personally like the nomex gloves though. I hate sweaty hands and with hands as big as I have, wearing a liner is not an option as I barely fit into the XL rubber gloves... however, I don't worry about this as I wear Vader and he has smart leather gloves