Dday

Exactly, the internal part of the drilled out rivet would still be in there

If only he would update to a 2pc helmet.

Great job, love it! You really knocked it out of the park. I watched the whole video this morning over cereal

My guess is if it's from TM, they are just held on with pressure. They will be super hard to remove anyways as they should be very very tight.

Exactly the reaction we were going for

Perfect, no need to change it

Here is something interesting to check out. Some test prints. Are the grid squares REALLY BIG, or REALLY SMALL?

Hi Krista, The helmet will be slush cast. I will be making them lighter vs your normal Fiberglass helmet, so it should be a noticeable difference between the ANOVOS fiberglass helmet. If you are looking for ultra lightweight, I know at least one armor maker who is going to be doing an ABS vacuformed one. Not sure on the timeline for these... but they will come.

It depends, I think the MR1506 Aker branded has some trouble but the MR1505 works.. but don't quote me. I know that Jim has tried to phase out the Aker brand with Voicebooster, inside they are basically the same but when the creation of the voicebooster, they have tweaked the voltage and made the IComm require the specific voltage. So it's no guarantee if you have an Aker that it will work. Best to get a VB amp.

The bucket is oddly warped and disproportioned quite dramatically. I don't think you could get 501st approval with this helmet if that is your goal. For around $200-$250 you can get a fully finished ATA ($150 for the kit, $50 build fee) or AP bucket, around $350 for the top end TM or RS bucket. Lots in between these ranges. I would suggest trying to sell that thing and getting one of the above helmets, if you compare them side by side you'll understand.

Not required based on the wording of the CRL. You could glue the clips on if you wish

Thanks Steve! Roy has really worked on this chin, and the chin shown is actually changing a little bit. Based on the film helmets the current model is a little fat and not quite as defined as we'd like it to be. The next iteration before prototyping will have this cleaned up a little.

Why not buy one of the cheaper voicebooster amps? the MR1506 is pretty inexpensive and Jim will have it out to you in a hurry.

I agree that it is the newness and untrained eye Since they are both a TFA trooper, they will be very similar. Plus both ANOVOS and our helmet is based off of original source material, they will be very close. There are some very obvious queues between the 2 when you train your eyes to them. The biggest is the size of the temple area. On the ANOVOS helmet, they stick out quite a bit. Our helmet has them flat like the screen prop suits. The cheek chicklet is very smooth edged on the ANOVOS where ours has crisper lines. Positioning of the mictip is the same as the C7 display suits and ANOVOS is turned a little different. There are some other differences, but I'll leave those to help you train your eye

Hyperfirm charges $250, but you can get his B grades around $150

Looks good! The zipper on the back going that low will need help unless you add a long tab to grab it with. Maybe if you only have the zipper going down a few inches past the bib neckline. You just need it to open a little bit to get your head through it.

What Andrew touched on briefly with the AM chest is the way the shoulder straps attach to the chest plate. The angle of the chest plate on top has a very high ridge, so when you try to attach the shouldstrap it will not properly lay flat. One edge sticks up quite a bit. You have to heatshape it a little to get it ti sit right but it still looks off. Besides what I said before being the chest is just too large, like the FX almost.

With your skills as a custom part creator from your blaster build. I would make a key from a piece of aluminium. Use some WD40 or some sort of super penetration spray to get in there a day beforehand.

It looks like the the part was trimmed wrong unfortunately. All of the return edges are gone. the cut marks looks to be right on the edge of the part. It should be basic approvable, but I'm sure you won't get beyond this.

For the price, and what comes with it, the kit is decent. You can quickly make a TK or a TD and it's great for those with some extra girth because of the extra edge on all the parts. The ABS isn't as thick as some, but it feels a lot like PVC to me. The Helmet isn't ultra awesome because it's a 3 part design, but once assembled if you do it right, it comes together nicely. The chest is a bit long and the bewbs on it are longer than they should be as well. What I don't see in this pile is the TK sniper plate, I only see the TD sniper plates. Again, for the price range, it's a very nice suit, and it really nice and shiney white.

I'm not convinced the screw is a metric thread. These come from a US WW2 Tank, which doesn't lead me to automatically think metric.. but hey, who knows where they were manufactured.

Yes, they are good

Keep in mind, you're posting in a Episode 7 Trooper thread. Did you buy the Episode 7 trooper, or a ANH trooper setup? The boots are different between them. No matter what you do, those funtasma boots are garbage and you'll regret it within the first hour. Your boots are the only thing between yourself and the ground so by all means, get some quality boots.

Hi! It looks like you can drop the return edge on the thighs some, this will let them slide up higher as well, so there isn't much of a gap between the lower ab section and the top of the thighs.