gmrhodes13

That's your 501st forum profile, not your 501st membership profile, this is the droid link you are looking for https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=43137

Chest armor, backplate, shoulders are larger and squarer on the bottom. Research is the key with this one, as the CRL is not finished it's up to you to match what references there are. Here is the current CRL thread

Some threads on fitting ears, add a step to the top portion so the rear can sit closer. It's all about fine tuning and sanding, going slow and rechecking.

Not first order armor. Maybe look at a 1/2 armor 1/2 soft costume if you need to sit, bikerscouts can do just about anything.

Thank you for sharing the info, it may help others

Looking good

No armor is really easy to sit down, with my original stormtrooper I can sit on the corner of a table or arm of a chair, if I sit fully down I can't get up on my own. First order armor has a posterior plate with little bend so you would find it difficult and although the cod can move it won't move all the way for a sitting position.

Please read the instructions in the first post of this thread, you need to add a link to your 501st membership profile. If you have any trouble please reach out by DM

File-Name: Oga's Cantina Coasters - Single Color Designer: Dell9423 Last Update: 14/03/2021 File-URL: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4793097 Description: Coasters and unfilled logos based on the coasters at Oga's Cantina at Star Wars Galaxy's Edge at Disneyland and Walt Disney World More Oga's Cantina Files here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4263933 Terms of Use: https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ Images:

Tighter strapping between the chest and abdomen, if your cod doesn't cut off circulation to your manhood, do you also have a large gap between your backplate and kidney? We use elastic normally in places so it has some give and will allow some extra stretch in some areas while using tighter strapping in places like the chest and abdomen, normally I double over elastic there as it needs to be tight.

Incorrect link, this is the droid link you are looking for https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=43137

Good call painting the yellow on the gums, not sure if you noticed but the CRL model has grey on the gums, that is incorrect and will need an update at some stage Also note the insides of the Hovi's (mic tips) should be black and no white rim, same as ROTK

Looking good. I ended up sewing mine to the elastic, but glue works just as well, as long as there is enough room for the shoulder strap to fit under the elastic. They actually sat just in front of the position of the snaps, but won't cause any issues with approval

File-Name: Star Wars Day – Coaster Designer: Drakul Last Update: 03/05/2025 File-URL: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1378445-star-wars-day-coaster-may-the-4th-edition#profileId-1426377 Description: Celebrate Star Wars Day with this bold and stylish coaster design. Featuring the iconic phrase “May the 4th Be With You” in a clean black-and-white layout with a dynamic hyperspace-inspired background, this coaster makes a perfect tribute to the galaxy far, far away. Designed for fans who appreciate clean design and timeless quotes, this piece is great for your home, workspace, or as a unique gift. Terms of Use: https://makerworld.com/en/user-agreement Images:

To find a garrison close to you search here https://www.501st.com/maps/imagemap-northamerica.php

These don't https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4793097

Looks like it needs to be a multispool Printing Tips: Most coasters share the same four colors: White, Black, Dark Red/Maroon, and Tan. The Cantina Code coaster uses Light and Dark Purple, as well as Tan. The Star Liner coaster uses Grey and White. Printing with an AMS is necessary for optimal results. (Automatic Material System) The print profiles automatically assign colors to the coasters. Before printing, ensure that you've placed your filament in the corresponding slots of the AMS according to the 3MF file. Ensure your print surface is impeccably clean before printing a coaster, especially for those with predominantly dark colors on the face. Otherwise, any dirt, residue, or filament wisps may become embedded in the print. Consequently, I do not recommend using glue. Due to the intricate details in the Bloody Rancor design, the colors and design elements do not load properly on the prepare screen when viewed from underneath. However, once the design is sliced, the colors become visible in the preview and will print without any issues. Please refer to the screenshots below for clarification.

Looks ok. You will find this position/gap may change once you have the chest/back joined to the kidney/abdomen, as it tries to pull down.

Hello and welcome to the forum, there is a lot of information on the First Order Stormtroopers in the here https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/218-first-order-battle-group/ This thread will also be of help

You could reach out to troopers in your garrison, no doubt some may have printers

Some great threads here for the skinnier shorter trooper Personally I had to add foam behind the abdomen as I am fairly skinny, this helps to keep the space filled, especially when tightening your belt, I also have foam in my arms and legs. If you are going to remove any material don't take too much, may make you look odd. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38416-crickets-rs-stunt-build-for-the-vertically-challenged/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38842-fragarocks-rs-stunt-build-not-to-scale/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42868-sha-shas-wtf-anh-stunt-build-complete/

Yes just a touch out of date, author last visited September 25, 2016 Personally I had to add foam behind the abdomen as I am fairly skinny, this helps to keep the space filled, especially when tightening your belt, I also have foam in my arms and legs. If you are going to remove any material don't take too much, may make you look odd. Some threads for he skinnier, shorter trooper https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38416-crickets-rs-stunt-build-for-the-vertically-challenged/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38842-fragarocks-rs-stunt-build-not-to-scale/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42868-sha-shas-wtf-anh-stunt-build-complete/

If you have a soldering iron handy (or something sharp you can heat on the stove) you can use one to add the holes to elastic, seals the sides of the holes and prevents snap from coming out For your shoulder bells if you add the snaps a little closer to the front it helps bring your shoulder bells inwards when you move your arms. I also use double snaps as I had one fail many years ago and having the two allowed me to still troop

Also have a look at the 3D sections, lots of FOTK weapons files available for printing https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/202-3d-file-depository/

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