gmrhodes13

Building up in layers is also a good idea, allows it to dry fully. If you are applying for higher levels you will need to add a screw to your picatinny rail On the ridged rail the third retaining button head closest to the elbow is an Allen key dome Hex bolt, approximately 5mm head width. Decals or paint are not permissible.

Not as yet, @NoVATie looks after this section, he should be along soon

That's your 501st forum profile, you need this one https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=35834

Nice work trooper, I agree with the glossy face of the radio, may not get through for higher level approval. Many miss that the top button box is actually longer, although that doesn't get picked up at higher levels, I would however trim a little of the sides of the switch plate as it is a little wide.

Well I do cheat a little, it has been ready since you first posted your application

Congratulations trooper and welcome to the Expert Infantry ranks and EI Honor Gallery

The faceplate looks a little too far forward/angled/doglegged, because of the angle of the faceplate it reduce the opening so mine is a lot harder to get on than my stunt. Note the brow trim just covers the top of the eyes and slightly higher than the step running around the back of the helmet. Another comparison, I think in this image the brow has been pushed down a touch as you can see on the side view. Also take note of the angle of the ears and screws to the top trap

Not sure if they still are or not as I've not seen recent images but they used to be the same, from memory I think I read when they went to cast the molds one shin was missing. "Both calves are the same, i.e. once finished they will be identical. both left sides match as do both right sides." "The problem with the RS shins is the original it was cast from had two identical shins made up from 2 outer left halves and 2 outer right halves. These two parts were never meant to match up because they were supposed to match up to inner halves (not present on their original). People go out of their way trying to make them into something they are not meant to be. That said, they can be reshaped using the hot water bath method."

Quite a lot of Hero helmet images here And here http://www.starwarshelmets.com/original-ANH-hero-Stormtrooper-armor-helmets.htm Hero frown Eyes and brow trim

Here's a couple of threads that may help, troopers with similar heights and modifications they have made to allow gaps and movement https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38416-crickets-rs-stunt-build-for-the-vertically-challenged/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38842-fragarocks-rs-stunt-build-not-to-scale/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42868-sha-shas-wtf-anh-stunt-build-complete/

One tip is to add some strips of ABS plastic to your brackets and screws, this gives a little more strength as the pressure on the bolts can split the armor. Some even have the brackets for accuracy but don't add elastic to them and have snaps and elastic behind.

A few other images of the display A write up on the costume https://www.orlandoattractions.com/this-is-the-way-to-planet-hollywood/

Appears to be the same one and it's from RS Props From a Facebook RS Props post The Prop Store auction late last night (UK time) was really interesting. Some items escaped our grasp, but not all. We did secure a new play thing, more about that to come. However, let’s talk about this Stormtrooper. Built by us a few years ago it found it’s way onto the set of the Mandalorian season one. If the price tag is making your eyes water check out our website, they are much more affordable direct from us and not pre owned. Seriously, congratulations to the buyer and the seller. We are proud to see one of our creations being sold by such a prestigious organisation.

You already have stormtrooper access

For fiberglass you can use automotovie filler "bondo", two part filler which dries quite quickly, start of sanding with coarse sandpaper then swap out to finer sandpaper.

There have been quite a few of the 501st members who appeared in some of the episodes of The Mandalorian who have auctioned off their armor, some sold for over $14,000. Here's just a few of them https://usm.propstoreauction.com/lot-details/index/catalog/267/lot/62859?url=%2Fauctions%2Fcatalog%2Fid%2F267%2F%3Fpage%3D30%26view%3Dlist https://usm.propstoreauction.com/lot-details/index/catalog/287/lot/73335?url=%2Fsearch%3Fkey%3DTHE%2BMANDALORIAN%2B%28T.V.%2BSERIES%2C%2B2019-PRESENT%29%2B-%2BStormtrooper%26xclosed%3Dno https://ukm.propstoreauction.com/lot-details/index/catalog/244/lot/67032

Looking good, just to go over a couple of details, not sure if they will be required for base approval If you compare your belt the notches aren't as defined, not sue if this will come up in base approval though, probably higher levels. Grey on ab buttons is a little dark may just be the photo, Humbrol No5 is best suited. Now a few tweaks you may need, not sure what it's like to walk around in but your shins appear very close if not overlapped, you may need to work on the spacing, perhaps shorten the shins from the bottom. Padding behind your sniperplate would help push it away from your thigh. Should bell elastic, if you could reduce this gap it would better. You have some bunching of your undershirt, also a black tab/elastic on the bicep. Different gaps biceps to forearms, I would try to even these gaps as well as perhaps bringing up your biceps, your forearm is touching your hand plate on the right arm. Opening on rear of left forearm, rotate when taking photos A little hard to tell but just make sure your drop boxes hang at the end of the belt boxes, hard to tell in your images. Drop box alignment Shoulder bell to shoulder strap gap Overlap of thigh over shin Belt angled on rear Something I picked up a few weeks ago is the position of the rear coverstrips on thighs and shins, this would be for higher levels. As I say just a few minor tweaks, always hard to get just the right position while others are taking the photos, I have a full length mirror on hand to check in between shots, as you may very well be the CRL model you want everything to looks just right

Costume Approval Information - Legion Elections 2023 With the Legion election period getting under way in a weeks time the legion membership database will be in lock down, during this time new member applications through your local garrison/outpost/squad can not be finalized, you may however still submit them but they won't be processed until the end of this cycle. This does not affect the addition of any new costumes to an active members roster/profile, however it does affect any membership status changes ie: active / reserve / retired and any personal information updates. The period of membership database lockdown for 2023 starts January 30th and ends Feb 20th

Some references here

Looking at the step I would probably look at trimming and butt join with a metal backing for more strength, having a step would definitely be a little hard to flatten. It's really down to how it is going to look once finished and if it will be ok for GML approval. This area can flex when putting on and off so stress cracks down the sides are very common. I've seen a couple add a hinge to this area like Phasma but you have to make it look seamless, Phasma's is covered with her cape.

Raised area is next to the coverstrip, can be a little gap there. Some makes of armor have the raised edges, some only on the front side and some don't have any raised areas, which make them very easy to have larger. References No it should not have rivets, just reference of coverstrip width/gap If ever in doubt you can also rely on our Gallery Sections https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/category/24-anh-tk-reference/

You do have 501st Stormtrooper access it was granted in January 2022. You do however need to check into the forums at least once per year to remain "Affiliated" to the forum, you can check detachment affiliation in the legion holocron https://www.501st.com/holocron/login?returnUrl=%2Fmember%2Flegacy , a thread on the subject:

Really depends on how much extra room you need, larger covers strips are acceptable, many try to add larger coverstrips to the rear of pieces as these are not mostly seen by the public, others split the widths between back and front. On some occasions some have had to add shims to pieces like thighs as they just can't achieve the right look. A thread on the subject

And don't panic about strapping, it's what ever works for you, there is no right or wrong way (as long as it's not seen from the outside) hence why it's not a requirement for any of the costume levels

Nice work, looks great