dm101

I am working on making the directions right now. I also have a few more modifications to post. I usually do this at work, because that is where the PC software is. Sadly we are mega busy right now. So my job is getting in the way of completeing the instructions. Darn you job. It is really not that bad to build once you figure out what all the parts are. The tricky things are the two crecent shape peices (where to place them) and the rear sight. (rear sight has the little notches on the half round bits. The notches face towards the rear.

Robert- You are correct. I was lucky and found these Forstner bits. If I did not find them I was either going to use a modified spade bit or use my works bench grinder to grind a flat bottom on a twist drill bit.

I used 1/4-20 Socket Head Screws. See my build thread- http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19872

Looking GOOD. That stinks that one of your pieces was broken during shipping. Any of the CA type glues will fix this. Your rear sight should have little bumps on one half of the part. The little bumps face to the rear. Regarding the huge gap in the folding stock. I used automotive Bondo. I originally used the 2-part Bondo. But have switched to the 1-part UV cure Bondo. Only problem is you need a bright sunny day. Hence the UV cure. My build is here- http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19872&st=20 One of these days (soon) I will get back to work on the directions and mods.

OK- THANKS I think I PM'd the right guy. We shall see

OK thanks for all the input I am having a Monday morning brain fart...HELP. I can not find a link or website to Troopermaster Anyone can point me in the correct direction?

I was going to start a new thread for almost the same thing. but... I have a large head (hat size 7-1/2) and a small helemet (AP). So I am looking for a bigger ANH version hero style helmet. What is the most accurate ANH-Hero one available today?

Charles, I to got the exact same box and armor. (mine came back in June) (it's now done...YEAH!!!!) YES the S trim is a PITA. I used E6000 and tought i had enough on the inside. The first troop it pulled off. Luckily it stays in place if you do not touch it. Painting is not that bad. Take your time. I found out the hard way that if you use the Humbrol paints. It's like painting with water. Use thin coats. Lay your painted part horizontal nd not vertical. Because my paint ran. I painted in my garage when it was extra hot out and not to humid. It takes a good day of heat and a little fan action to make the paint set

For a TK ANH Hero build. What is the correct helmet tube stripe color? I want to hand paint the stripes. Humbrol #15 Midnight Blue OR Humbrol #14 French Blue OR some other color?

you mean....Teddy bears with "POINTED" sticks. Big difference

That's my plan EIB then Centurian. Need a few more things. Might be ready by September. If your going to go...go all the way !!!

MODIFICATIONS NOT INCLUDED IN RESIN KIT- SPRING The Doopy’s resin kit does not come with a bolt return spring. I have seen numerous methods to make this spring. Check out some of the other build threads. One of the more popular methods is the wire coat hanger and a drum stick. Cut the wire hanger and wrap around drum stick (or some other round object that is the proper diameter, like a dowel rod etc…) I was at my local ACE Hardware store looking for some screws in the bulk screw isle. In that isle they also sold springs. I bought the #62 Ace spring. The important thing is that the outside diameter of your spring is a bit smaller than the inside diameter of your breach or barrel. I stretched out the spring to give the wraps more open space. I then cut it to my required length.

TRUE - I forgot about the scope and counter when mentioning the weight. But still 100 times lighter then the real deal.

The Doopy's is light weight and pretty well balanced. The real sterling I have weighs 8+ pounds. I would hate to carry that arround all day.

HA HA....I thought my wife and I were the only ones that called wal-mart ... WallyWorld

I LIKE IT !!

Great news letter. I wanna go to lego land....I wanna go to lego land....I wanna go to lego land.... Craig dm101

WOW... that is amazing!!! So when are you ramping up mass production? Craig dm101

Thanks- my long term goal is to (A.) put all the modifcations into a PDF and post it (B.) create the missing assembly directions with drawings and dimensions, and post that as a PDF. May take me some time, but it will be done. Working on my armor now...so that is sucking up all my time. Craig dm101

Sorry- I have a lot more to share with my blaster build. My armor showed up so I am spending all my time on that. I will get back to posting more details when my armor is good to go. Here is my attempt to add the image of the counter. I can make the numbers anything you desire.

My AP armor arrived. I am working on the belt. As far as I can tell. I do not have the 3 white snap covers. Anyone selling these? Craig dm101

This might be the wrong place for this post. Who is making and selling a quality Square Button for the waist ammo belt? -------

Thanks guys- I spent a lot of time (at work) thinking about how to improve the Doopy’s Hengstler. I thought this was the less painful idea I came up with. (you DO NOT want to see my other ideas, very complicated and $$$$) Craig dm101

MODIFICATIONS TO RESIN PARTS- Item #4 HENGSTLER COUNTER Remove the bumps on the Doopy’s resin cast that represent the counter and the reset button. (sorry I deleted the photo of the Doopy’s resin HENGSTLER before I made this instruction) I used a belt sander with a coarse belt to do the big work, then switched to a fine belt for the finish work. The goal is to have a flat smooth surface. 1. Make a Clear Plastic Lens- I used a sheet of 1/16†thick clear plastic. ( I bought this at Lowes) Cut out a rectangle the size of the HENGSTLER face (approximately 1†x 2â€). 2. I had some scrap 1/8†thick white plastic. I used this to make a reset button. The approximate size was 7/8†x 1/4†x 1/8â€. 3. I used my computer and Adobe Illustrator to make the counter. I printed it out on a laser jet printer. I then cut it to size. 4. Take the printed paper counter. I used rubber cement. Glue printed counter to face of HENGSTLER. 5. I line up the clear plastic lens and carefully marked the area for the clear section with tape. In the photo is a picture of the lens with only the primer coat. 6. I used E6000 glue and glued the clear lens to the HENGSTLER face making sure my clear lens window lined up with my printed counter. I chose E6000 glue over AC or Super Glue because Super Glue can make some types of clear plastic fog up. Next glue on the reset button. 7. I went back with the belt sander and trimmed up the edges after the glue set.

The white wires are from my junk drawer of left over house hold stuff. I think they were the wires left over from my garage door openers sensors. They are 2 wires together, but a little cut and pull they separate easily. They remind me of cheap speaker wire. The black wires are too heavy. (of course) They are also left overs. They are Romex 14 gauge. This type of wire is found in your wall for lights, outlets etc… (if your going to cut wires out of your wall or your neighbors walls…make sure the power is off. It really hurts if it is on. Maybe the best is a solid thin wire, not multi-strand. Automotive wires might work good too. Lots of cars out there. Lots of auto part stores too. Oh yeah use your handy sharpie pen to wrap the wires into coils Craig dm101