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jkno

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Everything posted by jkno

  1. The Sterling has been upgraded with Eagle Hengstler counter. Bracket made by Rob - thanks buddy!! The next step is to try upgrading the cylinders with the new found capacitors. Any advice on what to use for wires please? Mobile phone charger wires? Something else? Would the wires attach to the Hengstlers on the 2 protruding rods? Thanks
  2. Thanks again buddy for all your help!! The MR varion is the cleanest and the most bare of them all. Too bad MR didn't release it with more greeblies, to look like the proto...
  3. My own Sterling upgraded with cylinders, accurate t-tracks and real Eagle Hengstler (special thanks to Rob!! ) - comparing it with the MR which stays on a shelf above I can see how bare and simple looking is the licensed replica alas...
  4. Below is the prototype MR Stormtrooper blaster owned by a Rebelscum member:
  5. I own both a deactivated Sterling SMG converted as E-11 and a complete MR Stormtrooper blaster. The MR version is cool and almost the same weight as the real deal. The MR blaster scope has that red computer targeting grid, which is very cool on its own. The cocking mechanism (handle) and the spring on the right side of the real SMG is completely missing on the MR, that part is just a bit dented as a shape to what it should have been there, but no real hole. I know there were 501st customizing it and cutting that out, but is a hell of a job to do it since MR is metal too. The MR blaster is cleaned up looking very pristine, also having all the specific numbers and codes removed (maybe because of the gun laws). Trigger on MR is not working, neither is the selector switch. The folding stock is one of the cool things MR could have done to make it work - I've seen people upgrading MR E-11 to have folding stock and seems it was not very difficult (I also had an extra MR folding stock next to some other loose parts and indeed could be made to unfold with a bit of work). Too bad it didn't come with a Hengstler and cylinders but seems MR intended to make one with all these greeblies but it was never released - a Rebelscum member owns that proto MR E-11 (if you are interested I might look for the picture). On top there is the MR and on middle shelf there is the converted Sterling:
  6. Thanks Rob. you mean in the plastic part of the Hengstler? I painted the Hengstler and now I need to make a bracket, but with my garage full of my aunt's stuff not sure if I can reach my tools and materials in the back. Darn...
  7. Thanks guys. I also thought of foam tape but that has the tendency to age in time and Hengstler being heavy it might fall. What about screws? Where would you add them in the Hengstler itself to cause as less damage as possible please?
  8. What would be the best and maybe less invasive way to attach a Hengstler to the scope rail? There can be made a mounting bracket to attach to the rail, but how do you attach the Hengstler to it? With screws? Any other method, in the idea not to punch holes in the Hengstler? Thanks
  9. Th funny thing is that I worked with some of my friend's professional tools but I also used a simple toothpick (he uses one too when restoring various museum pieces)
  10. Thanks my friend!! Thanks. As I said above: "I know the real scope is bronze (or brass), but I didn't want to use two different paints for weathering" I also didn't want to use my real Eagle Hengstler and the scope on this one.
  11. Not long ago I was talking to a former high school colleague and friend who works now at the local museum at a restauration sector. He is a big sci-fi fan and likes SW too. He visited my house and showed him my collection, then I discussed with him about weathering my SDS Stormtrooper blaster which was too pristine for my taste. I have the MR Stormtrooper blaster which is clean, shiny and idealized, then I have the real demilled Sterling which has some cool wear and tear spots like a real gun has, and then the SDS blaster which was very clean. I decided to weather the SDS version quite a lot, to make it look like it was used in battles all over the galaxy. The small Sideshow blasters that came with their 1:6 figures inspired me to do this too, they have nice weathering as well. Thus together with my friend we used silver paint which gave a lot of depth to the Hengstler counter and to the other protruding parts, which would get scratched in real life too. It also separated the folding stock part from the body of the gun really well. When I visited the museum he showed me a few WWII weapons and we decided to go with heavy weathering and scratches on the SDS Stormie blaster exactly like it was on some of those real "war used" WWII rifles. I know the real scope is bronze, but I didn't want to use two different paints for weathering. Some could say the blaster is a bit over-weathered, but this is exactly as I wanted it since as I said I already have a pristine looking blaster (MR) and a lightly weathered one (the Sterling is lightly weathered like any real weapon would be). The funny thing is that even if I totally hate painting I did most of the job myself, under my friend's supervision, he only corrected a few things he considered needing his pro hand. Some bad quality pics:
  12. Totally agree. I never liked painting in my life, so I would also prefer some good decals instead of trying to screw the whole thing myself. LOL
  13. Thanks Jens. On my Sterling the lever works but doesn't cover all 3 positions, just 2 of them. It was like this when I got it with the deactivation certificate. Talking about living on the edge
  14. Thanks. I was thinking of looking at my own deact. Sterling since the lever moves, but not that much.
  15. Awesome thread!! I love what you did with your Sterling. How did you make the cnage lever working please?
  16. Indeed, Rob and I encountered the length differences between the deac. Sterlings/MR Blaster and various fan made blasters - the MR/Sterling being a bit longer than some fan made ones - this being because of the end part of the blaster. The MR blaster has a steel rail, my Sterling has a bronze rail and have seen people using aluminum or plastic too. The best way would be to go to a hardware shop and get some metal after you measure up your own blaster, or at least ask someone to make it for your exact blaster dimensions.
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