bjsavage7

^ This.

The most accurate looking ones that I have came accross are rubber military chemical gloves. They are sturdy, smooth, and do not have that weird gripping texture on the palms. I'm sure military surplus stores would have them for pretty cheap.

very nice work!

Yep. Its just a pipe.

Yeah, I was thinking of cutting the sides so it becomes a inner-box shape, then adding a bit of bondo to seal the seams, making it a true box. We'll see if that either works out or turns into a mess. lol... A gift box would be great if you could find one.

I don't believe anyone currently does. I was considering making some out of the ''for sale" signs that come in handy when working on just about anything.

Looking forward to seeing your build. I also agree, its better to shoot for Centurion from the start, that way you don't have to change a bunch of stuff later down the road.

I wouldn't get those. As mentioned, that weird stitching throws the look off.

Congrats!

What appears to be part of your neck seal that hangs down in front looks like it is sticking out the sides of your chest plate. I only see that in the first couple photos though, so probably no real issue.

Not sure if that's allowed, but you're right. You could see that on Luke's holster, when he drew his weapon in the detention block. Looks like the front of your bib is sticking out from under your chest a bit. Very nice looking suit.

We have those.

I actually sat down for the first time at a troop last night. It was tricky & somebody had to help me up, but I did it! I kept my legs spread out and was careful how I put my weight on my butt plate.

http://www.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_commander

I had that same problem. I added an extra thin, elastic strap across the front of the shoulder bells, running under the chest armor. They stay put nicely now.

You don't have to find a specific maker in Canada, although there are makers there. Armor comes in set sizes from different makers, usually including the helmet, and prices can vary. Please read this. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/ thoroughly before you buy anything.

Mark's contact info is in this thread, along with other armor makers. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/

You could check out some build threads of trooper's who've made them.

I just ordered a couple of pairs. My Under Armor is OK, but with trooping so much in Florida, I figured its good to have extras.

Wow! Thank for the info!

You don't really need one, but they are nice to have. You should be able to use one hand for the snap (popper), or do like Mark said & get a spotter to help.

I know the strapping under the shoulder bridges is white for ANH & ESB, but what color is used for ROTJ armor? I have seen either black, or nothing (since the bridges actually connect the armor), so what is the ruling on this? Or does it matter? Thanks!

Scott, I think they might have been common in the UK in the 70s, but not really ever here in the US. I've been trying to find suitable look-alikes here for a while.

Great. Thanks for the quick answer, Locitus!

After reading through this, I admit being a little confused still on the hyperfirm's allen bolts being at the 3 & 6 o'clock position. Do they have to be in the 4 & 10 o'clock position, or has this since changed for the requirements for Centurion? I'm only asking because I plan on getting one and am researching what all needs to be modded. I know it will still need the forward d-ring. Is there anything else that would prevent a hyperfirm from being Centurion? Thanks!