Locitus

With the exception of painted boots, I agree on all points. I think TKboots (or the like) are fair game. CAboots, on the other hand..........

I'm too skinny to need shims so I'm not the expert. Just added my thoughts on how I would have done it.

I would think, butting the shim, and having a good strapping to keep it together despite the cut in the shim would make you able to put the the rivets/brads in the shims on either side of the cut. If you do this, I'd personally think it would be a good idea to maybe try to level out (maybe with some putty?) the hight difference that occurs when the shim is put in from the back, to make the shim more invisible from the outside.

Yes, nice!

I knew that!

Yeah, glued in the front, floating in the back. You know what I mean.

Maybe we could add something like "the ribbed shoulder straps should sit flush to the chest armour, ie glued, and free floating in the back"? As stated, the program is concerned about the outside look of the armour, and this is imho a detail that greatly enhances the outside look.

Nice!

I kinda like it! The one without scope and the one with the m38 are really nice

They funny thing with using the above picture as reference (the one with handguards on the wrong side) is that the trooper behind him him has them correctly, yet nobody that does this mistake, notice that.

Sweet!

A little off topic... A new member of my garrison did his first troop this weekend in an SDS armour and already got a rather large (about 2 cm/1 inch) tear in the plastic on his right thightop. I patched him up with some white gaffer tape. Some quality.... It's not like he was doing any hard trooping either, just walking around indoors. Not like me who throw around my TM like a rag doll - but I know mine can take it.

Yeah the originals had white elastic, so go with that.

Okey, I understand. Good luck!

V-shaped cover strips? Are you talking about cover strips or shims?

20 mm on the thighs and front of the calves. 25 mm on the back of the calves and 15 mm on the arms and biceps.

Neither of the cod or butt piece "returns" (marked with circles in your pic) are supposed to be there. They are supposed to be connected with an elastic strap instead.

Sonnenschein/Karin sells some good ones. Or you can buy my spare one for 50SEK (which is what I paid) in gbg.

Yeah you need to add the D-ring to the back of the blaster. But that's the only fix you need.

Yeah it's not screen accurate, but quite sturdy (no resin parts) after you glue down the loose parts ( )and lightweight. Minus the sound it's a hasbro+++

I'll be there both saturday and sunday so it shouldn't be too hard to get over there

No can do mate. I'd get kicked out if i did that. I will however donate what's left in my tube of E6000 for ya once you get inside. Entrance should only be like 100 SEK so it's not too expensive.

Yeah some pieces on the SDS are a bit poorly glued down it seams. I have one too, and my scope rail came undone shortly after my first troop. Now this rail is under more stress than the bayonet-bracket so it makes sense. I glued the scope rail back on with a little dab of E-6000 and it has been secure and steady ever since.

Isn't two part epoxy a little overkill? E-6000 holds your armour together during intensive trooping, so it would surely hold for something like the bayonet-bracket that receives little to no stress at all. Not saying J-B Weld is bad, though

No rivet cover on the sides of the belt? That would be a nice fix.