Locitus

Very good considering that you are a little bit larger than what it's intended for. Try to adjust your strapping to tighten the chest/ab overlap so that the chest can't move up on top of the ab. You always want those to overlap, even if only by 1 cm. And don't forget to paint all screws and rivets white (except the crotch rivet and butt plate snaps).

Whaa? What are you doing to them to rip? I've had mine through extensive trooping for almost 2 years without problem.

There is no hard rules on how many millimetres this way, or that way. Fact is that I don't even care. That is not the important part. The important part is that the rivet sits in the top corner relative to your own build, and that it looks clean and neat. The screen used suits used cap rivets that become flat when hammered down, but we will also allow the domed split rivets. See our reference photos we keep on the site for this matter: http://www.whitearmo...eferenceGallery Like this picture which is pretty good hints that the rivet is really in the corner, very few mm from each edge.

There's a vote going on to change the requirement to reflect a more accurate position. Make sure you vote too Stephen. Yes, those approved earlier would be grandfathered, but are encouraged to change any missing retirements.

Ears could be made slimmer, and the knee belt rivet is in the wrong position. Should be more towards the top corner. But otherwise you're just fine.

Sounds like you're about my height. Any of the more accurate kits should fit you well. Don't be afraid of trimming a bit. With a set of lexan scissors you'll have a breeze.

Hi Eric, and thanks for listening to our advice. While it may seem like a good idea to buy it only for practice, it really isn't that hard to trim and assemble a real kit. So buying this one even if only for practise ends up as a waste of time and money. Even worse is that you'd contribute to making those ebay sellers make more money and help keep them around for fooling more people. So please don't bother with this kit at all.

Solid job on the painting!

Very nice!

I'm not at home now to set up all the settings, but you're approved as soon as you show me that blaster D-ring<br />

Don't worry about it. Each to their own.

Here's some more pictures of the MGC for your viewing pleasure: -----------

If they aren't on, they should be. They are curved on the Sterling L2A3 used in ANH/&ESB, and straight on the Canadian C-1 which the model company MCG made copies of, which were used in ROTJ. In short, it depends on which movie version you make.

Both of those are really wide. You're better off with one of the more accurate ones like RS,TM,ATA,AP,T/MC.

Not all hero helmets had a low brow. This is a common misconception. I would however recommend a repaint of the tube stripes with the lighter blue, humbrol #14 (french blue). If that is what you want to do.

While I think that the UKG and their higher than average requirements is a good thing, and mostly agree with their practice fact is still that garrison preference does not precede legion requirements. IE you cannot be disqualified from membership for fulfilling basic requirements no matter what the garrison "average" is.

No, centurion requires a finished blaster.

I would say no and that the position requirement should be ignored. The nozzle clearly rotates and can be in any position.

It's a nice hero you've build, but there are some issue with the helmet. Specifically the mic tips needs replacement for more accurate ones, the ears should only have 2 screws, one in the top and one in the bottom, and the ears needs to be replaced with a 3-bump version. Other than that you should be fine.

Yeah, I call BS on that. There's nothing in the CRL saying where the ear screws are positioned other than top and bottom of the grey bumps on the stunt. The UKG guys should know that, and given the amount of UKG guys that wear RS themselves there should be no problem on the ear part.

What we build on this site and very much so in anything related to 501st is that we build movie-quality or better costumes. They are simply miles ahead of what most think of for an halloween costume. Just the plastic alone for a stormtrooper cost probably more than $200. And on top of that you need to add labour and other expenses such as costs of the moulds used, shipping, tools to build with and accessories. And the stormtrooper isn't even that expensive compared to Boba/Jango Fett or Darth Vader who all three can cost some $5000 or more.

Yeah, those work just fine.

Upload the pictures to an image hosting service and link them to the post with -tags. That's the best way to do it.

Upload higher resolution images. With this size it's really hard for me to pick out details and offer improvements.

Very well then! Approved!