Locitus

You can't access the threads because you're not an approved TK yet. The threads are in the detachment only section of the forum. The whole list is as follows: Side and crotch rivets must be split rivets. No brads. Head size: 8 mm. Must use movie correct assembly method, Cover strips for ANH & ESB, overlap for ROTJ. Ab plate button plates must be a 1-part pieces, no separate buttons. No FX armour. Thigh ammo belt must be attached to thigh with cap rivet or split rivet in the upper corner. Sniper knee plate must be correctly aligned with the ridges on the shin. Sniper knee plate must not have visible rivets. Boots must either be worn or not and match condition of armour. Do not mix battle worn boots with pristine armour or the reverse. Any battle wear must be light. No TD-style weathering. Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt without gap between belt and box. Drop boxes must have inner drop boxes. No flat covers. Thermal detonator belt clips must be positioned near the end caps (roughly 1/8" apart). No more than 1 black stripe on each ear (ANH). 2-3 stripes per ear (ESB & ROTJ). Require AM chest and back armour to be replaced with a screen accurate version. Require AM shoulder bells to be replaced with a screen accurate version. Remove the word ideally completely from existing wording. But each bullet has to be voted yes or no on separately so there is no way of knowing yet exactly what amendments will pass. Existing centurions are grandfathered as is tradition in the legion, but are of course encouraged and I would dare to say expected (at least by me as a person, not as staff) to update their armour to meet the new requirements. I hope that clears up any questions you may have.

Also keep in mind that not all centurions were approved by me. After all, I've only been DO for less than a year. Yes, there may even have been the occasional centurion approved by me with incorrect rivet placement since this was never required and the person in question was unwilling to change it. During recent months I've seen seen enough of incorrect attachment that I've become more stringent about it to sort of "teach" people to do it correctly, since Centurion is what people look at to learn instead of doing the right thing and look at screen shots or archive photos. It wasn't long ago that there were no LFL archive pictures in public circulation. There were only a handful of people that had them, and they had paid quite a lot of money for their copies and were not allowed to share them with others. Nor was it very long since there were no blue-ray HD screen shots to look at, and no RS to release close up pictures of their original armour. Yet people STILL managed to get it right. I did it. At least to the best of my abilities as a newbie, which turned out to be just 2 quick mods away from Centurion when that was released. So please excuse me if I feel frustrated when people to the same mistakes over and over despite the references become better and better, and easier and easier to find. I'm working hard, and the whole FISD is working hard to make it easier to do things right and accurate.

Yes, that looks better. I am however not agreeing that we must put measurements and fixed numbers on everything. Not all armour is alike and what works on some doesn't on other. How hard is it really to just put it in the top corner? If we were to put measurements that should strictly be followed and someone does, but because they have armour of brand X that somehow is different and the end result looks bad compared to if they had followed their guts and put the rivet where it looked good then we who wrote the instructions would be to blame. Measurements are good, but common sense should prevail.

If you're unsure you can always test on some scrap plastic first. Personally, I think it's a myth and have never had any problems with it.

The original suits used elastic for everything, and for good reason. As you move tension gets put on your strapping and instead of transferring that tension to your snaps or whatever, the elastic absorbs it. This minimizes the risk of snaps coming undone.

Looks like you can tighten the elastic between back->kidney and chest->ab to close the gaps and allow more overlap on the chest, as well as lower your left bicep an inch or so but other than that I think you're just fine. Approved!

I'd say that it's less than that, but given the size of the rivet head that might be a good position for the hole to be made. Once the rivet is in place the edges of the rivet will be closer than 10 mm to each belt edge. It's all relative to your armour and a millimetre here or there is no big deal as long as the rivet is clearly in the corner.

8 mm head size and cap rivet is the prefered. It is also adressed in the hopefully new crl additions that we're voting on. Sent from my GT-I9300

No, that's fine.

That's a good start.

Please keep everything in a single thread and do not use blurry pictures in your application. (Yes, I deleted your other thread)

Back when I was a beginner I didn't know that.

Two years of trooping and this is all I have to show for on the white rubber version. This is not even a fault with the hand guards themselves, this is caused by me gluing too close to the edge. Had I glued a millimetre further in like on the second glove it wouldn't have happened. ----------

Very nice! Approved!

Fixed it for you. Go into "edit post" and flick the switch in the far left corner of the post formating tools to change to "text only" mode to see what I did. Then post the rest of the images in the same way. Edit: there you go!

Now you're doing it right. Just add the rest of the pictures.

Excellent.

Yes. Once you have linked them into the thread. Photobucket has a menu that pops up once you hover over a picture. At the bottom of that menu are the pre-made -tags that you just need to paste into your post and they will be shown.

Cool!

If you want you could gently sand down the ear bump stripes and move them back. There's so far to my knowledge never been an ANH trooper with your bump-pattern. All I've ever seen is 1 bump painted on each ear and always on either the last or second last bump.

Not all too bad, but the paint job on the helmet could use some tidying up and the tube stripes are really low and should sit closer to the cheeks. The full body photos are all too small and grainy for me to make a proper review. Please post new ones.

Don't worry, I've just been messing with you. I will say though that you should replace the TD screws with flat head screws and put back the middle elastic on your ab->chest. The rivets holding your holster to the belt are also positioned a bit high. They should be closer to the bottom. That is all. Approved!

Nobody builds TM kits like TM himself. Very nice! I could say that this is approved already, but I'm not because I want you to learn how to use the -tags. It's a good thing to know around this forum.

Centurion applicants are not encouraged to copy other build threads. That's like the whisper-game in TK-form. It's fine to be inspired, but take it with some salt. How do you know that the other guy was right? The only valid reference to copy is screen used props. Maybe it's my matter-of-fact way of speaking, but I am never intentionally talking down to or trying to scape-goat someone. And if you are talking offence from being put right, then I'm sorry my friend but you are making a chicken out of a feather. We are using "science", but we have to vote because the legion and this detachment is a democracy and everyone who wants to has to have their chance to influence even if that means holding things back (which I hope they don't). The discussion thread and voting polls are both found in the detachment-only general discussion area as they always are found. Link: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showforum=35

Ah, yes. Wait until you're happy with the fitting and then paint. The RS butt plate is really flat. It's a "flaw" from the armour it was moulded from being stored the way it was for 35 years and the mould taken from it not getting adjusted to compensate for it. But yeah, warm water or other heat if done with care could help in turning it back to its intended shape.