gazmosis

Hey Tom. Thank you so much for your Centurion application. Making the Garrisons more accurate makes all of them better looking. Let's get to your armor. First I want to say thank you for all the effort you have put into your armor and the updates you have made. There are a few more points that I would like to see you address before I can pass you. Keep in mind, I have reviewed both your Centurion and EIB application photos in great detail to arrive at these conclusions. I would also like to state at this time that Centurion is something special. We put a lot of time and effort to bring our costumes to this level and a trooper's final Centurion application should contain the armor in its Centurion form. With this said, Tom,I am not going to have to take all new pictures because you have documented all your changes but for future applicants, let's display your Centurion armor in its Centurion form on your final application. Now let's get to it. Centurion photo requirements: There are a couple pictures on the Centurion list that are not here. We need to make sure the split rivet on the crotch of the ab is present. Also, could you please provide pictures of the attachment of your thigh pack and sniper plate (sniper from both sides)? Lastly, It is required that the drop boxes contain rear drop boxes and not just flat covers sitting on a filler. Could please provide a better shot of the rear of your drop boxes to confirm this? Centurion requirements: Helmet: The rank bar area on your ears should have at least one black rank bar present. This should be on the rear most bump. Second, there is no photo provided indicating the proper "S" trim needed for the neck opening. Forearms: There should be no return edge present on the wrist portion of the forearms. This includes into the ridge containing the square indents. Your right forearm hits the mark, however your left shows removable return edge still present. Chest: Although it is preferred to connect your back with the kidney and your chest with the ab, there is no "ONE WAY" to assemble your armor's connecting system. Some troopers, like you, prefer to have a lower strap that connects your chest with your back at your side. However, it is required that if you do decide to have this strap, it should not be visible against your armor. The picture you provided of the upper right male snap clearly shows this strap visible against your armor. Your "arms raised" side shot does not, however with your arms raised this raises everything. We need to be certain that this strap sits high enough with your arms at your side to not be visible. Kidney: Thank you for moving your back placement up a bit. The over lap on your right side still seems excessive. I looked at the picture of your shoulder bridges from the rear and you have plenty of space to move your back up to completely eliminate this overlap. Ab belt: Although not a particular CRL point, it is preferred that your waist belt be as close to the ab button plate as possible. In reviewing your inner armor shots, I didn't notice a snap installed that commonly serves the purpose of holding your ammo belt in place. I understand that you needed to custom fit your ab and remove some material that created a separation in your ab. If this separation line cannot be properly covered by moving your belt up, I will need to see this. I will contact you to discuss this further. Please do not hesitate to contact me or to discuss on this thread. I will contact you regarding your ab/cod adjustment and the belt height.

I know it is miniscule....RS uses dimes (English) and TM uses something smaller but not a coin. Pennies might be too large but they look GREAT!!!!! Can you send me one? I have an RS belt here if you want the dimentions

Mike: If you are going through the effort to make anew belt, I would redesign the rivet/button covers. I know RS just vacuforms over a dime to make his. Just may have to get one of these new ones to replace my ATA.

Germain has your solution really close. Just remember that what you trim from the front will affect the rear and vice versa. Go slow. You gap is on the outside of the cheek so you will need to trim the ear against the faceplate to close that gap.....like Germain and Glen pointed out

Those snap plates are small. You may need to make backers in order to glue them. You can't glue metal to plastic because of the possibility of heat buildup during the curing process. It may warp the gluing areas.

Jeez boss, have you ever heard of Fred Flintstone?

Paul is back making armor in force...he's fine. Was mearly a flesh wound. Love his armor, BTW. I am too fat to wear it, but I have built it

This build is a pleasure to watch. A question was asked earlier as to why to paint the inside of the helmet black. When we troop, the motto most heard is "it's for the kids". They are usually smaller than us and can look up into our helmets. When they see black, it gives an aspect of realism.

Good heads up on the charging handle!

MUCH better on those buttons I am sure you will agree. Did you get that D ring on your blaster?

Hey Phill. The wrist portion of your forearm should have no return edge. This includes the ridge that has the square indents. The elbow portion can have a little return edge or none at all. As for the bicep issue, I will look into updating the CRL. Butt joint your biceps.

On the ab buttons, make sure you don't paint them that big.

No Mike, !t's not. The NE is a 3 part build like the old FX. The cap makes a distinct line at the separation line under the rear traps from ear to ear. Also, the NE helmet has a much more defined ridge on the circular portion of the ear unlike the one in your pics. .

In my experience, my faults only came when I tried to paint over the primer too soon. Again...in my experience, whenever I followed the manufacturer's directions, my paintjob failed. By failed I mean wrinkling and had to start over. What ended up being the solution was to use a primer for plastics and make sure that I let it cure for no less than 10 days in a minimum 65-70 degree temp (not in my cooler basement) After 10 days, you can put as many coats as you want according to directions. each coat to be applied within 15 minutes of each other. I used 3-4 coats, then wet sanded 1000 grit sand paper, rubbing compound, polishing compound, then wax.

Alright Chris we are finally there. I will officially put your Centurion award through. Congratulations and thank you for doing all the work that you did and making the corrections. Your armor looks great! I will be a pain in the tookus just one more time and ask you to post an action shot or a full frontal shot with your newly re-painted ab buttons. We all just want to get a final look at your hard work. Congrats again!!

It is hard to give a full EIB comment because you posted no pics of your blaster. You look pretty complete for the exception of the fasteners on your sniper plate. There is no shame in just applying. Just review the necessary pictures and points to cover on the CRL.

Awesome work on the newsletter and to all the troopers!!!!

I think that is going to depend on how large your gap is. If it is any more than 1/2 inch, the kidney will need to be extended.

What Pete said!

This topic is in discussion. The discussion focusses around the u trim that goes around the armor parts. In a standard RotJ suit, the inside edge of the kidney and butt plates make a straight line vertically. with the u trim lining this path. If a shim was added here, would the trim need to be applied to the shim as well?

Novus works good, as does most conventional car rubbing and polishing compounds. either way, you will need a little elbow grease. As for the inside...I like my "pheromones".

Sexy as hell, bro!

There are no snap size requirements but a 5/16 post just gives you a little more breathing space.

Don't go as wide as one inch. Stay in the 3/4-7/8 range but the overall length us mist important. You should be at 7 1/4- 7 1/2 inches when done. As for the shins, it's up to you if you want the outsides a bit lower. It actually looks good as it covers the elastic on the boot.

Ok. In summary. In favor of the balance between the strips on your thighs and calves improving the final look of your armor, I will agree to the 1 1/2 inch strips on your thigh backs to match the strips on your calves. I am sure once you see the continuity between your thighs and calves, I am sure you will be pleased with the final look of your armor. I anxiously await the final pictures!