gazmosis

Thanks for pointing those things out, Dennis. Sometimes you need someone else to see something that maybe You just don't. The location of the counter on the blaster is just something that never really jumped out at me until you brought it up. As for the rear vents, I know you have doubts about them, but after having them on my other helmet, I just can't live without them. On hot, sunny troops, To me if you get air in that's great unless hot air inside becomes too much. A small fan at each vent gets rid of that hot air that would normally get trapped at the top of the lid with no other way to get out. That's just me. It always made me comfortable.

Thanks Dan!!! What did I miss? I didn't see a picture or description of you were asking about the strapping system and EIB/Centurion.

Final pics added! 187 total!!! Thanks to all who followed the build! I hope it helped in some way.

Wow!!!! Thank you so much. I really appreciate all the feedback! This is what it's about; helping troopers to be better troopers! I am happy with the changes and the suggestions were spot on! I hope I can sway others in out Garrison to follow! thanks again!!!

Gorgeous build, Brother! Should be an easy pass! Beautiful job on the tube stripe painting!!!!

I am submitting the new photos of the corrections I was asked to make. I am also submitting an additional photo of the "bucket off". I was called out by Dr. Senf (Sven) and rightfully so. This is for Centurion and it should be treated as so. Previously, I put the armor back on to take two pics I forgot; the white elastic on the shoulder straps and the bucket off shot. I NEVER wear my armor with my neckseal untucked. I threw my armor on to take the shot without looking in the mirror and the neckseal was clearly visible. Not the way a Centurion photo should be submitted.I also lowered the biceps and raised the forearms a bit. I seperate the two a bit by habit to avoid the armor bites that happen in this area. Anyway as Mathias requested, Here are the photos of the corrections:Blaster with lowered Counter Forearm return edges removed further Rear trap vents with slots painted to look more like the vent openings are painted. I took shots with and without flash to show all detail possible One additional helmet shot I hope that covers it! Thank you for your consideration and comments.

Pandas got the answer!!! Sometimes it takes a little wiggling and pressure, but the "s" trim will conform nicely to the dips and contours of the helmet. With the 3/8" additional overlap at the end, with pressure, slide the s trim to the left and right until the ends meet. This compresses the s trim holding it in place.

Can't wait to see your progress!!! Take your time and good luck!

Got another troop today but tonight I will adjust what is necessary and post those pics. Thanks for the feedback!!! I found a good ref. pic and indeed the bottom of the counter should sit even withthe top of the folding stock arm. Should be an easy fix........I hope!

Name: Steve Gaza (Gazmosis) Garrison: Midwest (Illinois) Armor: ATA Helmet: ATA Blaster: Gazmosis(resin cast butt cap, grip, muzzle, scope) Everything else from scratch Ht: 5' 10" Wt: 209 Boots: TK Boots Canvas Belt: Gazmosis Holster: Gazmosis Handplates: Karin Gloves: Rubber Chemical Full Body Bucket off Back plate above kidney Side showing holster, side rivets (there are two more under the belt) Right side showing single male snap on corner of AB plate Shoulder strap with small white elastic White strap connecting chest and back plates Double male snap on butt plate, single rivet on cod, closed drop box backs, white strap connecting drop boxes to belt Rubber handplates and the reveal removed from the forearms Rubber gloves Sniper plate glued not riveted Curved lower corner on thigh power pack attached with closed white rivet Thermal Detonator metal clips TK Boots lightly scuffed Helmet full shot (thanks to Keith for another AWESOME set of mic tips!!) Green lenses Left side hand painted details including tube stripes (Thanks to Trooperbay for the templates and the Humbrols) Right side details Rear trap details. Vents are actually cut out for fans to be intalled later "S" neck trim Blaster Counter side of Blaster Butt cap Action shot Action shot #2I never took a shot specifying the AB buttons, but several other shots show the proper color sequence.

Just FYI....Both were matte black

Breathing might be easier if you trimmed the teeth out. That's just me, though. Nice job so far!

I put a coating on the inside of my helmet that reinforces things pretty well. I just didn't want to see you grab a drill and put any REAL pressure on that area and punch a huge hole through it. I will be posting my Centurion request thread tonight.with my ATA I just finished. Sounds like you are having a butt ton of fun!!! I did! Jared!!!! Just re-read your post. Is the Jb weld type glue just an epoxy or a plasti-weld. If it's a plasti-weld, be REAL careful how much glue you put in this area. It's designed to melt the plastic and WILL warp thinner areas.

Sweet looking helmet, Bro!!!! Watch that mic tip area...REALLY THIN!

http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy354/gazmosis/ATA%20armor%202012/Final steps of the build!!! Helmet painting and a little pimping and that's it!!!!!!! More photos added. Almost 175!!!!!

OOOOOOOOOoooooooohhhhhh!!! I know I will be watching!!! Enjoy!!!!

The last time I looked, most of us live in free countries. It's your money and you can build the armor to your liking. Will your armor pass for 501st...yes. There are standards that are upheld for FISD regarding the armor represented for each film. Since you will NOT be representing a specific film with your armor, there just is no possiblity to obtaining EIB or Centurion in any category. I hate to sound this negative but it is what it is. Good on you for building your armor and participating in the 501st. Everyone in this wonderful group builds their armor to their own level.

Many pics added. Finally I am at the helmet build!!!

Way to go, Sven!!!! Nice armor!!!!!!

I use the Aker and PTT cable only...no VOX. If I want a static burst I can do that with my mouth. I find the PTT cable essential for two reasons: Battery life, and I can say certain things without the world around me hearing it. I burp sometimes and am glad the world around me doesn't hear that. I had a severe issue with sweat inside my rubber glove shorting out the PTT cable. I now need to wear an exam glove under the rubber glove to keep ALL moisture away from the PTT. Yes I tried the balloon and everything else. The exam glove is foolproof. That's my $.02

I am just finishing an ATA kit now...if someone wants to send me a TM, I would be happy to give a build comparison....tee hee

To everyone who said bad words about me for the 105 pictures out of order I am sorry. The problem is fixed and the build pics are now in order . MY BAD!!!!!

I look at your armor (I am building the same kit) and your butt plate seems to flare out as much as mine. I was thinking about heating and bending it a bit. But maybe not. Nice job building the lid,brother!!!!!

Link now over 100 photos!!! This won't be the build thread that just never got finished.

http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy354/gazmosis/ATA%20armor%202012/ I am near complete with my ATA kit. Although yu are doing a hero, most other things are comparable. Just additional info if you want it. Sorry the pics are not in order but they are numbered and have descriptions. Just for your info, in pic 65, it shows where I removed (for the most part) the thumbprint in the bicep. I tried the sealing iron. But a few gentle waves with the propane torch did it for me to soften up the whole print area at once. BE CAREFUL IF YOU TRY THIS!!! PLASTIC WILL HEAT TO ITS WARPING POINT WITHOUT WARNING!!!! YOU WANT TO GET THE PLASTIC TO THE POINT THAT IT'S SOFT BUT NOT WARPED!