pandatrooper

Yes, most likely. If you have bigger calves (your real calves, not the armor calves) then you'll need to shim the calves with some kind of white plastic overlap piece.

I think they said that the first batch was small, depending on response they would plan for another order / restocking, in half sizes too. I was going to get an 8.5 but the 8's I got fit awesome. Super happy that i found boots, you guys have no idea... been going for months with a good chunk of my TK sitting here, but no boots! "The circle is now complete"

Yeah, the mic on those has to be REALLY close to your mouth for it to pick up your voice. You can also take the box apart, and there's a plug inside that you can disassemble, and wire up a better mic from a headset instead. Just an option for you, it will improve it in terms of mic sensitivity.

Just got mine today, they are awesome! They're just a tiny bit "pointy" in my opinion, but there's good toe room. I ordered a pair of 8 and 9 since I'm actually an 8.5 I fit the size 8's well, the 9's a little bigger but that's OK, I will put padded insoles in them for long troops. **For those that have commented they fit snug on the sides, make sure to take out the thin layer of foam padding inside the boot, near the upper surface!** I think they put that there to help them keep their shape during shipping. I put on the 8's and said "Dang, these are so tight! Then I realized the foam came out.

Yes, there's Michaels in Canada, I get my E6000 there.

Do NOT use a hot glue gun. As stated by Joey, you can melt the plastic accidentally, and if you drip hot glue on the armor on a "good" surface, it might be hard to remove. Zap a gap is not nearly as flexible. If you decide to change your mind later and use a different glue, you're going to have a mess on your hands trying to remove the Zap a gap. Also, Zap a gap fumes can cause the plastic to etch / frost if you're not careful. I would really go out and just buy a tube of E6000. It's got great working time, is flexible but strong. Do it right, the first time. You won't regret it.

I glued the side that matches up first. After it set overnight, I pulled the other side until it matched up (under tension). Put some tape on to hold it in position while I glued the butt seam with plastic weld. Then I did the inner shims with E6000. Yes, the top / elbow area comes out uneven, but I fixed it with the iron. The AP might be designed with no return on the wrists, but personally, I chose to leave a very small return. I personally think the armor looks "thicker" and more substantial that way. Just opinion of course. Do it however you like.

No problem. You just need to "make it fit" Match the ends up, pull them gently into place, tape it all up and glue it.

Hey Andy, I thought I'd reply in more detail. Here's what i did: 1. Should I line up the pieces from the back or the front? When I do one of the edges stick out. Was this a problem with other troopers who have assembled AP Kits? Line up the forearms at the wrist, don't worry about the elbow. Since you have a heat sealing iron, you can re-shape it and cover the sides with strips. 2. When trimming out the wrist and elbow how far should I go to the edge? I used Stukatrooper build as a reference, but you need to assemble it based on what fits you. If you're going to glue the forearm permanently closed, you need to make sure you can still fit your hand through the opening. This is what i did: - Dremel the wrist opening to whatever return width you want to use - If your forearms are big, I would suggest trimming the butt seam edges bigger, before you need to trim more. What you want to do is make the forearm fit your arm, but still have the wrist hole be big enough to fit your hand / glove through. That's why you need to Dremel the wrist opening / return first. I would suggest trimming the forearms on both edges to about 20mm on each side (that would mean 40mm total) and tape them together and put your arms through. Mine ended up just like Stukas: 12mm on each side and then butt seaming. Some people use 7-8mm per side because that makes the finishing strip look good, but you might not be able to get your hand through - or you need to glue one edge and use a velcro closure on the back side. It's up to you if you want the forearm glued or glued and velcro in the back. 3. I have a Hobby modeling Iron. After trimming. Should I iron the pieces before or after gluing? Do it after gluing, so that you know how much the plastic needs to be manipulated. I'll post a picture up in my build thread (probably start posting it tomorrow) and you'll see. Many parts of mine were way out, and the back of one of my thighs was a perfect example. I glued it, then heat manipulated it, then Dremeled / sanded. Looks great afterwards! 4. Can I use a plastic sign ie, a "Beware of the dog" "For Sale" that you see in stores to cut up small strips to make the "Butseam"? The reason I want to save the trim strips for snaps and front trim. As people suggested, use styrene for snaps and save the trim for the outside. I used slightly thicker styrene (2.0mm). Personally, I used the kit trimmings for making shims that I glued onto the inside of all the legs / arms. My inner shims run the length of the pieces, not just the beginning and end 5. If so which glue would you recomend? E6000, Plastic Weld or abs weld that you find in home improvement stores? I used Plastic weld for the butt join, and E6000 for the inner shims and finishing strips. I used Plastic weld for the snap plates. See my tip in the Tips section on how to rivet snap plates for more surface contact. Works awesome!

As people have said, line it up at the wrist and use a heat sealing iron on the elbow ends, or if you don't want to do that - blend them as best you can with Dremel / sanding. The finishing strip covers most of it anyways.

Cool, thanks for clarifying.

Didn't I read somewhere that the FX helmet no longer meets 501st CRL requirements? Is that correct?

They go from the front of the Hengstler counter "tips" to the back of the power cylinders (the tubes that sit on the magazine well). I probably won't put them on mine, I figure there's enough stuff added to a blaster already.

Awesome, thanks Terrell! No super rush as it will be a week or so before I'm done my build. Just started thinking about cool photo opportunities so I thought I'd post up. Thanks!

Since gutting a Tauntaun in your kids room would be a big mess for your chilly youngling, why not get him / her a Tauntaun sleeping bag instead? http://theforce.net/latestnews/story/Kids_..._Bag_122144.asp *I love the fact that the inside of the sleeping bag liner has "intestines" screen printed on it. Is it just me, or am I the only one creeped out by that?!

Hey Steve, i think the AP kit uses the same bicep and same forearm for left and right, there's no "unique" left side and right side. You just get 2 of each (others on the board can correct me if I'm wrong) but I think they're the same. I think what you have is correct, so there's no reason to send the parts back.

You might be referring to polystyrene foam, that's what foam coffee cups and cheap ice coolers are made of. Styrene plastic (not foam) is used for model car / airplane kits and the like. It's softer than ABS and can be manipulated quite a bit.

I recall someone on here already did this exact same mod. Not sure if it was an issue or not for clearing 501st. He might have done it after getting approved?

I'm slowly coming close to getting the bulk of my build done, and I'm already thinking about photo ops! After I get some plain background photos of me in TK armor (for 501st and EIB submission), I'd like to do some photoshop ones of myself in various backgrounds (Tantive hallway, Death Star, etc..) Being a photoshop nerd, I'd like to do some nice ones, with the reflection on the floor, etc.. Does anyone know where I can find some still photo backgrounds of these locations in a good resolution? I tried searching the web, but most weren't that great in terms of quality and were too low res. These will only be for personal use and posting on FISD, etc.. Thanks in advance!

Looks pretty cool, I was thinking of doing something similar with my trooping Hasbro blaster. Did you just wire it up to the existing LED wires? or is it driven by a second switch / power source?

Hey Michael, there's a great new source for 501st approved boots here, and they're half the price of the Rockports. Check these out. --------

Mine has been crazy too: 1. Took friday off to spend time with wife. Printed pictures for her work. 2. Armor worK: Worked on my thigh armor (thank the maker and Stukatrooper for the heat iron trick!) 3. Helped my wife with her costume for halloween (she's going as a classic Hong Kong movie style Chinese vampire). I tried to talk her into a Leia costume (not even Slave Leia, just white robe Leia!) and it was a no go. Maybe next year. 4. Attended Windows 7 release party at friends house (didn't tell him that I love my Mac and have been an apple user for like 20+ years) 5. Armor work: Started working on my torso, cut the butt piece and did the snaps and snap plates. 6. Volunteered at a rabbit rescue festival (my wife and I have 2 house rabbits, we also volunteer for local rabbit shelters). 7. Attended brother in laws birthday (had cake and Beard papas cream puffs!) 8. Armor work: got the side rivets and "right side snap" done. Thanks Firebladejedi and TKdueno! 9. Tomorrow: finish the shoulder straps for the torso, attach the inner harness. Possibly do the thigh garters. 10: Monday: Armor work: more helmet work (finish filing teeth and fitting ears). It's Canadian Thanksgiving, so it will be turkey madness!

I love how Ned was so mad at his party guests for touching his collectibles and wearing his masks and helmets. That's EXACTLY how ticked off I would be!

Leave it weathered!! I say just take some similar colors, and gently touch up the Hengstler and T-rack as people have mentioned. It looks awesome!!

Hey Steve, not sure if you're in Richmond much. But there's a store in an Asian mall called Aberdeen mall in Richmond, there's a store in there called Daiso where everything is $2.00. I bought small flat, 90 degree and triangular files in there for $2.00 perfect for the teeth. I'm racing with you now, buddy for 501st and EIB! Got my torso done today. I'll post a build thread soon too!