pandatrooper

Thanks Bill! Ready for trooping!

Thanks guys! I just edited the torso / thigh progress section, added content on how I made the garters to keep the thigh armor up.

Here's how I did my garters for the thigh armor. Around my waist, I wear a simple 1.5" web belt with a fastex buckle up front. One each side is a V shaped garter. You could use a straight piece of elastic, but I found that with the V shape, the thigh armor stays perfectly positioned no matter how much you move. I tried it with one piece and there was just too much movement for my liking. One side of the V is permanently attached, the other is adjustable. When I made them, I didn't know exactly how long they needed to be, so I left one side adjustable. You can make both sides adjustable or permanently sew them, that's up to you. I'll probably make another garter for myself that fits me perfect.

For the Hasbro to meet EIB requirements, you need to make sure the T-rack is correctly placed. You don't need to grind them all off, but certain ones need to be in the right places. Per EIB guidelines: * Hasbro blasters: -- Total of 7 T-racks (if you cover all the original Hasbro rows of holes) -- or 6 T-racks (if you cover the original Hasbro "open row" of holes on the Hengstler side. Below this, you must grind off the original Hasbro lower T-rack and drill a new row of holes)

Thanks for the support guys! Glad you like the finished look, couldn't have done it without all the great support here. Dennis, I just use a modified Hasbro for now - intended for trooping use. I'm not going to freak out if it gets dinged or damaged or if I let a kid play with it, I won't be bummed if it gets dropped because it's sturdy. I've got an idea for another blaster that I might work on. You'll have to wait and see!

No problem Aaron, the head to toe pics don't show the separation clearly. I've added 2 pictures in the first post that show the separate kidney / butt plates. Let me know if that's OK. Thanks!

Thanks guys! Hey Christaan, thanks for the heads up. I got so excited making this post, I totally forgot to requests my status update!

TK-2886 from the Badlands Garrison / Outer Rim Squad reporting for duty! Requesting 501st status please. http://www.501st.com/members/displaymember...hp?userID=11300 Thanks in advance! Terry

Hi Andrew, looking good so far! Only a few suggestions (might just be the lighting) - I can't quite make out the neck seal, do you have a proper one (ribbed, etc.?) - I can't make out the AB button colors, are they all black? Are you going for the ANH look? There's a great guide here by Billhag http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=8117 - on your shins, have the back velcro face "inwards" so that if someone is looking at the outer side of your shin, they can't see the velcro. I can see it! Try and use white velcro too if you can. - you might want to glue the biceps together (looks like each half is held with Velcro?) you don't need to be able to take them apart - you might want to add some elastic loops at the base of the shoulder bells, and have them wrap around the biceps. This way, the bells won't swing around (and it's screen accurate) - I'd take Daniels advice too, and trim the chest plate (at the neck and or at the rib cage). FX kits always look long to me. Also, I'd trim the sides of the chest and back, where the gap between them is under your armpits. The gap angle of each piece looks a bit off. - I can't see your boots, but Caboots or TKboots.com will do the trick. They will only run you about $50-$65. - your thermal detonator (TD) doesn't need the silver tape, if you want to be more screen accurate - you'll need a holster and a proper E-11 blaster of course! Overall, great start and you're on your way. Great to see another Canadian TK!

Just got my TK number hot off the press (TK-2886), so now I'm ready to apply for EIB! I've been researching and planning EIB requirements for quite some time, so hopefully I'll pass! I was hoping to get everything completed in time so that I could be the 86th EIB TK, but maybe I'll end up as 88? I lost count! Anyways, here goes! Full head to toe images Side torso detail: - the 6 white rivets on the Ab / kidney - holster fastened with 4 rivets - the exposed male snap - separate kidney and butt Helmet details: - hero face / teeth - hero black bubble lenses - black hovi mic tips ANH E-11 modified Hasbro (trooping blaster) - T-rack installed per EIB guidelines (extra row of holes drilled, T-racks installed on each side) TK-2886 reporting for duty!

You should e-mail them anyways, to make sure they have your size in stock before you order. Also, because you're in Canada - the shipping will be slightly more. I just tested the Paypal thing, it works fine (if you're int he USA and they have your size in stock). It simply adds $12 for shipping in the USA.

Put me down for one too, signed please! Thank you!

Finished pics / weathering images added above, edited some of the descriptions. Should meet EIB requirements now. Enjoy!

Congratulations, looks great! Nice attention to the details, very clean build indeed.

Thanks Doug for the feedback. When I wear mine, it feels like the the cartoons "I'm a nekkid guy that's wearing the empty barrel with suspenders" feeling.

I'm done my build now, but I was curious what everyone does in terms of ab / kidney sizing. When I cut the excess of the kit down, I kind of left mine a bit bigger for safety, but I find that there's a ton of space inside, maybe even a little too much. Then again, I am a slimmer build (30.5" waist, 5'8" and about 145 lbs) I may consider thinning down the ab / kidney area, (maybe remove an inch from each side of the torso) and maybe slimming down the thighs too. I know this might not be an issue for those that need to shim, but more for the thinner guys / girls. The thing I notice in the original ANH pics is that the troopers look pretty thin. When I see the pictures taken of me, I look "bulky". That's the only way i can describe it. How much space do you leave in the "gut" area?

I'll try to snap a pic of mine tonight. I made "garters" as well.

Thanks guys, couldn't have done it without the help and support of everyone here! A big influence was seeing all the great tutorials and reference from Stukatrooper, TKdueno, Firebladejedi and others. Outstanding examples to follow. I made my submission for my 501st membership / TK number last week and sent in my pics already to my GML, just waiting for a response and checking my e-mail every half hour.

Personally, I'd avoid throat mics, at least ones of that caliber. I played with a few $100 ones at a paintball game and they were horrible. A standard boom mic headset is way better and much clearer. I have friends that were in the military, and unless you're willing to spend a few hundred on a throat mic, its not worth it. These lower cost ones tend to skip sounds, and if any contact is missed between your mic and neck, they don't work. There's also a hollow sound to them, which might be compounded by having your speaker under your armor. You also need to have them on fairly snug around your neck, which might be uncomfortable under all your gear anyways. It's up to you, but I'd suggest a regular headset mic or wireless set up instead.

Here's a picture from Stukatroopers tutorial. He attached the 2 halves via 3 elastic straps, with female snaps. The rivets you see are used to attach the male snap to the armor. ------------ You can also just have 6 "fake" rivets or snaps showing, and attach the armor halves with velcro.

Thanks Johnny, glad you like it. Overall, I'm happy with the way it turned out. I'd love to try and build another kit at some point, and not make some of the mistakes I did when assembling this one. Ever make one of those cuts with your knife / scissors and say "Oh man, I wish I could turn time back by 30 seconds..." Yeah, I had a few of those. I just added some finished images above. I have some KILLER pictures to add when I get the images a friend took on Friday.

Thanks Christaan! Here's the final stages Completed blaster. I did some gentle weathering for now, I'll do more later. I also made my own temporary T-track for now (until my actual T-track arrives). Made from some 2mm styrene, very simple. Painted the ejector port silver. I'll eventually grind this area out and add my own detailed piece inside and weather it. The d ring is a simple aluminum wire bend, fit into the cast piece. I only glued one side of the D-ring plate to the butt of the blaster (the Hengstler side). I simply drilled a 1/8†hole on the left side of the D-ring plate, and a matching hole on the end of the blaster butt pipe. Applied some E6000 to both sides, joined them, and for extra strength – popped a rivet through the D-ring plate and butt from the inside to secure them together. Again, this allows you to separate the blaster later if you want to. I added some additional holes under the Hengstler for better sound (not that the Hasbro sounds that great, but the whole point was to allow the blaster to be separated for when I want to install additional electronics.) That's it for now!

New updates, added new pics too. The build is now complete. Finished trooping pictures to come!

I just applied for my TK number. I'd love to be EIB 86!! I just need to paint my rivets white and install my black bubble lenses and I thin I'm good to go for EIB.

Prepping for paint (always washing parts in water with detergent, rinse thoroughly and hang to dry. Avoid using rags to dry as they can leave lint on the surface.) Primered Silver and gold base (gold for the scope, to keep it authentic) First of 3 coats of satin Krylon black Parts finished painting, drying before assembly I tapped holes for the magazine and Hengstler counter, so that they are extra secure (on top of E6000 glue). I didn't glue the Hengstler as I will upgrade it later I only glued the front muzzle on one side and secure it with a screw / hole drilled where the big allen bolt goes. Again, so that i can split the blaster if needed This is T bolt / chicago bolt, to hold the stock tight against the barrel. It can be easily unscrewed allowing removal of the stock, and the T nut is glued on the inside Assembled blaster (missing T track and weathering)