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I decided to add a few more pictures so you can see the size difference between the 102% and 107%. 102% is about 5mm bigger than 100% would have been, so hardly noticeable. Please forgive the pictures. Its hard to do with the helmet in pieces and with only one functioning arm.

Hello fellow troopers! I'm joined the 501st in 2023 as an imperial Security Officer an go further with a spot on Imperial Staff Officer Costume. Secretly, however, I have always admired how cool a Stormtrooper armor looks and how much joy it brings to fans; so, I decided to follow this path as well. That was more than six months ago, and now I can say: I'm thrilled to share that I've just received my approval for an ANH Stunt build, featuring an MFX armor set and an RS Prop Masters helmet, a combination I'm genuinely proud of. May the Empire stand!

Hello fellow troopers! I'm thrilled to share that I've just received my approval for an ANH Stunt build, featuring an MFX armor set and an RS Prop Masters helmet, a combination I'm genuinely proud of. The armor itself came to me secondhand and in rather rough shape, so the entire build was essentially a full restoration from the ground up, including a complete re-strapping. It's been a rewarding challenge. The blaster is a 3D-printed replica, and the boots are dyed Chelsea boots that turned out surprisingly well. This is actually my third costume overall, but my first armor build -and I have to say, the experience of trooping as a Stormtrooper is something else entirely compared to my previous outings as an Imperial Staff Officer. There's a very different energy to it. Before the final approval, I took the armor out for a full test-wear to make sure I could realistically handle 5–6 hours in it. Let's just say - you all know exactly what I mean when I say it's demanding. But the moment you're in full kit and catch your reflection, every bit of discomfort becomes an afterthought. The joy of wearing it simply outweighs everything else.Looking forward to trooping with my Garrison members soon. May the Empire stand! That was the starting point and how it turned out 1/2 year later First time test fit all parts holding together with white duct tape the worst moment, I glued one coverstrip The wrong way around with super glue and tried to get it off again... Pre Approved "test troop" as non registered trooper... You can find pre approval pictures an details here:

Congratulations. Well done

File Name: Galaxy's Edge Control Panel V1 Designer: Retro Realistic Hobbies Last Update: 30/05/2026 File: https://www.printables.com/model/284636-star-wars-galaxys-edge-control-panel-v1 Description: Star Wars Galaxy's Edge Panel Version 1 This a basic "Free Version". The Full Multi-Part Version is linked here https://retrorhobbies.etsy.com/au/listing/4300471806/star-wars-galaxys-edge-control-panel-v1 Retro Realistic Hobbies YouTube Channel https://www.youtube.com/@retrorealistichobbies Images:

Congratulations trooper and welcome to the ranks

Congratulations once again trooper, great to see you out and about. Over time you will get used the donning on the armor and find more comfortable ways to stand and move around. We have an award system for trooping which you may wish to be part off, you get a nifty badge on your forum profile when you hit specific milestones. Start your troop log here You can also request a letters of commendation Looking forward to seeing you out and about soon

Thanks to some help from @Sayless I can now post pictures. As mentioned before, I started with 102% on @TKModder421's modified Niko files. After trying a few test cuts I thought that would work but I learned my mistake was not taking into account the flange where the dome and the back meet. With my head pressed up against that flange my glasses still rub the lenses and would have put holes in them. I looked into options to help me put the helmet on better because I couldn't even get it on without my glasses off. I'm blind as a bat without them so I needed to change things. I reprinted at 107% which may have been a little more than I needed but at only about 15 millimeters taller, wider, and longer than 102% it was hardly noticeable visually. And now I have room for padding in the back and my glasses clear when I put the helmet on and wear it. Below are some pictures I've taken of my progress so far. My printer is 256 by 256 and I'm new to it so in my first attempt at printing the helmet I cut the back right down the middle. This made the most sense to me but I learned that ABS warps when there's not a lot of structure so after 4 attempts I gave up and changed my plan. The first photo shows where I cut it the next time and how I used a piece of one of the failed prints as a backer for strength (picture 2). This worked pretty well because the majority of the seam would be hidden by the ear. Because I'm using ABS and I'm bonding things together with acetone I think the joint would have been pretty strong without the backer but I used it for Peace of Mind. That worked out well other than being too small. I resized the files and used the measuring tool in my slicer to figure out which percentage would work well with what I had learned and the 107% looked like it would so I did a test cut. That fit pretty well so I went ahead and printed the bulk of the helmet. I haven't printed the chin yet but I think I'll be able to get this one on even with my glasses on. But if I run in to the same issue I had with the 102% I'll go back to my original idea of using magnets to hold the chin on. Putting the face and back together I can set this on now and not have my head touching the back and still have room for my glasses. I think I'm happy with it. You can see the 102% and the 107% side by side in picture 3. Because the back wouldn't fit still I knew I needed to cut it. I rotated it and decided that cutting off multiple small pieces to bond back on would be better than trying to line up two larger pieces. I also ended up needing to cut a little bit off of the face. Pictures 4&5 show the small pieces I clipped off. By cliping small pieces the larger pieces kept their shape and didn't warp so the small ones fit up perfectly. The acetone bonding should be simple and the majority of these seams will be hidden behind the ears too. The last picture shows some damage to the vent on one side of the face. I had a layer shift that was in the worst possible spot. I'm going to try and fix it with the file but I might end up reprinting this piece. I have to do some maintenance on my printer first. As mentioned above, I'm new to 3D printing, this printer is new and has 400 hours on it now, and is due for some maintenance. So far I'm happy with the progress. I was afraid the 107% helmet would look clownishly large but side by side to the smaller one and looking at myself in the mirror I think it will be just fine. Once its all bonded together I will post a picture for your opinions.

Thank you! I signed up for Flickr and I will see how it goes. Thanks! I am glad you found my build thread. I am excited to use the kit I ordered from you. It should arrive tomorrow!

@Tall_Trooper this last one is for you

Moderation Action : This post has been moved to a more appropriate section for armor / repair discussion. Have fun and good luck.

Hi folks! I've had lots of people ask about various details regarding how I did my helmet interior. So, I thought it may be wise to just summarize it all so others may learn things or try to replicate some/all aspects of what I did. My goal was to have all my electronics systems embedded inside my helmet, with individually switchable systems, whilst all being very clean and hidden along with a blacked out look. No problem right? For reference, this is what the interior looks like. Note that inside there I have 3 battery banks, four fans, a powered condensed microphone, the iComm unit and an Aker amplifier, all attached to a switchbox: Ok so I quickly found out that it would take quite a wall of text to summarize how to do this build, so I decided to throw a video together to summarize it all instead! https://youtu.be/eYeUpAHOSHM The basic gist is this: 1) Black out your bucket as you desire, I used 1/4" thick neoprene to line it. 2) Create a junction box by leveraging your hovi bolts onto a custom backplate which your switch box also get screwed into. 3) Refine your project box so it has the right size and number of switches for your application (I have 3 subsystems, others may have more or less). 4) For every one of your systems make a custom harness where the electronics run through your switch to its power source, ensure that the switch is the only mechanism to turn it on (so if the electronics had their own switch keep it stuck in the on position and let the switch you use at the project box be the one that controls it). 5) Using high quality velcro, mount all your electronics up at the top, and/or your fans at the bottom. 6) Route all of your wires that need to run from your electronics down to the switchbox in a clean loop, and everything else tied down neatly at the top. Use tubing to wrap the wiring with the least amount of wire and tubing required. 7) Add velcro to the bottoms of your electronics at top and add black padding to hide it all and make a comfortable fit. 8) Use any extra helmet padding as necessary to ensure you have a solid and snug fit. 9) Optional step: You may want to do this at the start but have your eye lenses done up in a manner that will work well with the clean look of your interior (see my other howto to check out how I did mine). Here are some helpful detail shots that highlight some of what I was referring to within the video. One shows all the bare electronics before any lining or hiding was performed at the top. Another shows a detail of the swicthbox at the bottom to show how the hovi bolts and the project switch box mount into the backplate. Here are some links to the more unique or non common materials I used: Project box: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BBQNM Flip switches: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JT7D0G Neoprene lining: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00488DB10 Helmet padding: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A4TNQ8A 12V fans: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015S5XFJE 12V battery box: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VE7HBMS All right folks, enjoy and I hope this helps you with your own helmet builds. Post any questions or your own interiors!

I'm genuinely amazed you can fit all of that AND your head in there! That's a lot of stuff you've got in there. Very tidy.