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Neat ideas. Do you change into the entire armor in the tent, or just the undersuit? My "hack": I always wipe down the inside of my armor with isopropyl alcohol (60 % or more) after each troop. It is safe to use on ABS, kills smelly bacteria and funky fungi, and evaporates quickly. A cloth dampened in the alcohol works fine, but for the nooks and crannies of the backplate I use a spray bottle.

Mini -Febreeze Spray Bottle I know some troops can make us get a little ripe. I like having some Febreeze to put on the fabric before you suit up can help in addition to the shower and deodorant. But I don't want to carry the big bottle of Febreeze with me. So, I got a pack of mini misting bottles and filled them up with Febreeze. I took the Febreeze logo off of my refill bottles and then stuck that to the mini bottles too. That way I know or anyone else knows what that liquid is. Now the Febreeze is travel small and won't take up a lot of room. (Note: the lids on these are not super tight, so I use a rubber band to wrap around the top and bottom to keep the lid from popping off. There's probably other travel misting bottles out there that won't do this, but this brand does a nice just actually soft misting and not straight squirting. Amazon.com: TOSERSPBE Spray Water Bottle Hair Mister, Fine Mist Stylist Sprayers 360 Empty Small Misting Spritzer, Perfume Atomizer with Pump Clear Containers 2PCS/2oz : Beauty & Personal Care

Hi all, Love this detachment and forum. Amazing folks here. I'm pretty quiet and more of a reader than a poster. I'm a longtime trooper (since 2002). While, I've been working on my Centurion ESB TK application, I was getting out some of my little inventions I've been using for trooping and my costume to have aside. Over the years, I've got a few ideas with pics that I thought I'd share in case it helps others or they want to use it. My hacks include: -Changing outside/inside -Using a changing tent for changes in the parking lot - imperial cog stencil used on black tent along with bar and puck light to tilt and light the inside of the tent -Changing inside maximizing space with a tub lid shelf- I use 4 white wood panels as poles which are used to elevate the lid of the tub to act as a shelf to put parts on -Time keeping -Using a black mini finger watch turned backwards - super quick way to check time on a troop -Trooping accessory - For troops with no blaster allowed, using black Police metal ticket holder with 501st Legion tickets to issue for civilians that say dumb things to us or 'break rules'. Ticket holder also allows easy storage and lid to lift to give out stickers, coins, patches, etc. -Changing inside and being able to check how armor looks- I've added plastic mirrors from Amazon and velcroed them under the lid of the tub to use to help address costume details. - Changing accessory - Mini travel spray bottles of Febreeze to help keep from smelling in the costume - I even took the Febreeze logo sticker off of a refill jug and glued it to the spray bottle so it looks official but lets you know what liquid is in there. -Blaster wrap - Imperial cog golf towel and mini velvet jewelry bags (for the ammo mag) with velcro wraps. A themed way to wrap blaster to prevent scratching armor but not taking up any extra space in the tub. -Helmet sound effect - Mini soundboard in helmet to trigger compressed air "Tssshh" sound effect when taking off bucket. -Sound - Mp3 player on blaster handle and blue tooth Bose speaker (which is really loud) which fits perfect and hidden inside the holster. I'll show these in some separate posts. Not all these hacks or ideas are meant for official/canon troops but could be used for fun events. Hope this helps anyone looking for new trooping ideas. Feel free to add any of your own! I'd love to see others!

While i guess i am building Phasma. So yeah i am building TLJ Phasma, My Armor is from Jim Tripon and i am getting most of the soft parts from Geeky's Pink Phantastic Gaskets. I was originally going to go with a Incinerator trooper i posted i was going to attempt to build the CRL in the Remanent section of the Forum but was i ever wrong so i am building TLJ Phasma now because i truly like Phasma more as a character and the CRL is already built for her. At the moment while i wait to receive my Armor i am currently trying to Figure out the shoe situation for Phasma. I am trying to make myself height accurate for the Phasma build and am getting lifts for inside my shoe's i am six foot two and Phasma is six foot seven so it is obtainable. More updates to come on Phasma

A few months later than intended, but the order has been placed! Looking forward to joining the RS crowd. If I can time things right, I may be able to not only pick this up in person but also be able to troop once again with the UKG, marking its debut. I am concern with the shins though. Has anyone 6' or taller had any concerns? FX, RT-Mod, and TM fit me well, but ATA shins were simply too short. I asked Rob if he'd ever make a slightly taller shin for us cursed with long legs, but as you all know he's quite the busy person.

Great tips!! thanks for sharing.

The Tub Lid Mirror This is probably the most popular idea I've had at troops. So many times, we have to use car reflections or random things to try and see if our costumes look ok during events. There isn't always a mirror. Amazon carries plastic mirrors that I velcroed a couple to the bottom of my tub lid. When you lean your tub lid up against a wall, you can angle it to see how you look! I use this so much. And I'll find many of my fellow trooper's hover over my way to do a review of their kit as well. I also don't have to worry about heavier real mirrors that might crack, shatter, or add weight to your lid. Especially if you use your lid as a shelf like I do too! Amazon.com: JUNEBRUSHS 4 Pack Self Adhesive Acrylic Mirrors, 12x 16 Inch Mirrors Tiles,Flexible Plastic Sheets Wall Stickers,2MM Thick Mirror,Frameless Small Mirror : Home & Kitchen

The Travel Tub Shelf I first saw a version of this from one of my fellow troopers in the Midwest Garrison. My rolling tub has some little slots on the sides and on the tub lid. Using white side paneling from Home Depot, I cut four 3-foot lengths. Then added a small wood block at the top of each bar. These are screwed into the top of the bars as the base to rest the lid on. The lid then rests on the bars above your tub. This maximizes your space when you might be in a small changing room. It gives you a tub lid shelf.

Secret Time Keeper I have found as I've gotten older, I don't make it as long on troops especially in my TK kit. Often on troops, I'll be looking for the time to know how much time is left in the troop. I don't want to be seen reaching for a cell phone, look for a clock, or having to ask. I just want to quickly see a clock but not have it be so visible. My wife came across finger watches on Amazon. I got a black one and tried it out during Halloween. It was great. Very hard to see from anyone else, but I just look at my hand real quick as if I had a watch on. I just turn it on the inside on my non blaster handle hand.

Changing Tent Using a changing tent for changes in the parking lot or even indoors. I got a couple of weights to go with it. They slide in the little pouches at the bottom of most of these types of changing tents. I used an imperial cog stencil used on black tent. The tents will have little loops on the outside and inside of the tent to let you roll up the front door. I use the loops as a location to put a light. I cut a 1-inch-wide PVC pipe and got caps for it that I can take on and off. This pipe can slide through the loops. Then using velcro, I velcored a push-button battery-operated puck light to it. Because of the weight of the PVC, it doesn't spin with the puck light on it. You can literally tilt the light up, straight or aimed down. The photo below shows the light bar on the outside, but there's loops inside so you can light up the inside of the tent if needed. I like this to have a place to put a light and be able to easily take it on/off. I like this for the underwear changing portion of outside changing. It wraps up nice and I can throw it right back into the truck once the changing portion is done.

https://keeptrooping.com/product/new-era-undersuit/ Hands down the best one currently available.

For those budget-challenged builders like myself, I thought I would share the tools that I have been using. Lexan scissors, half round file, nail files, cheap dial caliper - all from Amazon. A lot of manual labor here, but totally controllable. After the rough cuts (slightly oversized)with the scissors, file/sand as needed for final sizing and smoothness. I also have a harbor freight belt sander that comes in handy for quick material removal that is not as dangerous/fast as a Dremel. I find it more controllable than a Dremel and it can do nice radii AND straight lengths- dremels can't do straight edges! Sent from my moto g 5G - 2024 using Tapatalk

File Name: Thermal Detonator with Electronics Designer: Oubliette Last Update:[/color][/b]05/05/2015 File: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:809004 Description: May 4th, 2015: I have made this thermal detonator prop file available to the public and do so in deepest thanks to all the great crafters and enthusiasts of the prop building and costuming communities who have supported me over the years, all the amazing artists at Lucas Arts who have inspired this design as well as made fantastic film that I have spent far too much time enjoying. Finally a big thanks to everyone out there making really cool things for others to enjoy. I firmly believe that open-source licenses on prop designs is the way to go. Everyone benefits and the community and artists can grow their skills in leaps and bounds. Images: Electronics: Name of project: Thermal Detonator Electronics Link to project if found online: https://github.com/PropTroniX/Thermal-Detonator-Electronics-V1.0 Software: Arduino Board: Seeeduino 32bit 48MHz Microchip USB Type-C Components: Parts Required 1 x Set of 3D STLFiles - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:809004 1 x [Thermal Detonator V1.0 PCB] - PCB for Components 1 x [Seeeduino XIAO] - 32bit 48MHz Microchip USB Type-C 1 x [DFPlayer Mini MP3] - Mini MP3 Sound Player 1 x[PAM8403 Class-D Amplifier] - 2-channel, 3W, class-D Audio Amplifier 1 x [Micro SD-Card] - Minimum 512K 1 x [Mini Limit Lever Switch] - Used on the Slide Switch to Turn On/Off 1 x [Ball Tilt Sensor SW-520D] - (Activation Switch for Thermal Explosion 1 x [28mm Low Profile Speaker] - (Thermal Detonator Speaker 1 x [5mm Red LED] - Top LED - Power Indicator & LED Functions 1 x [5mm Red Flat Top LED Lens] - Top LED Power Indicator Cover 3 x [3mm LED] - Front 3 LED's - Can be any Colour but I use White or Yellow 7 x [JST PH-2.0 Male Lead] - Used to Connect the Components to the PCB 7 x [JST PH-2.0 Female Sockets] - Used to Connect the JST PH-2.0 Leads to the PCB 1 x [Header Pin Set]( - Used to for Connecting the Seeeduino, DFPlayer & PAM8403 to the PCB 3 x [3mm Metal LED Holder/Bezel]- Used for the Front LED's (Optionall) 1 x [Slide Switch Screws] - Used to Secure the Top Slide Switch to the Top Dome Code: /* Thermal Detonator V1.0 Released on: 21st June 2019 Author: PropTroniX ([email protected]) Source : https://github.com/PropTroniX/Thermal-Detonator-V1.0 Description: Light and Sound for a 3D Printed Class-A Thermal Detonator Electronics Parts Available at www.proptronix.co.uk Thermal Detonator V1.0 STL Files are Included FREE in the GitHub. This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. To view a copy of this license, visit http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/. */ #include "SoftwareSerial.h" #include "DFRobotDFPlayerMini.h" SoftwareSerial mySoftwareSerial(7, 6); // RX, TX DFRobotDFPlayerMini myDFPlayer; void printDetail(uint8_t type, int value); enum {NORMAL, SPECIAL} currentState = NORMAL; //suffix N for Normal byte led1StateN [] = {1, 1, 1, 1, 0, 0, 0, 1, 0}; byte led2StateN [] = {1, 0, 1, 0, 1, 1, 0, 1, 0}; byte led3StateN [] = {1, 0, 0, 1, 1, 0, 1, 0, 0}; //suffix S for Special byte led1StateS [] = {1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 0}; byte led2StateS [] = {1, 0, 1, 0, 1, 0, 0, 1, 0}; byte led3StateS [] = {1, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 1, 0, 0}; byte ledPin1 = 3; byte ledPin2 = 4; byte ledPin3 = 5; int ledPinON = 2; int triggerPin = 8; int buttonState = 0; unsigned long currentMillis; unsigned long previousMillisPulse = 0; int pulseInterval = 500; bool pulseState = LOW; unsigned long previousMillisBlink = 0; int blinkInterval = 1000; byte arrayPos = 0; int passNumber = 1; byte specialButtonPin = 14; void setup() { pinMode(triggerPin, INPUT); pinMode(ledPinON, OUTPUT); pinMode(ledPin1, OUTPUT); pinMode(ledPin2, OUTPUT); pinMode(ledPin3, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(ledPin1, LOW); digitalWrite(ledPin2, LOW); digitalWrite(ledPin2, LOW); pinMode(specialButtonPin, INPUT_PULLUP); mySoftwareSerial.begin(9600); Serial.begin(115200); if (!myDFPlayer.begin(mySoftwareSerial)) { //Use softwareSerial to communicate with mp3. while(true){ } } myDFPlayer.volume(25); //Set volume value. From 0 to 30 myDFPlayer.play (3); delay (1500); myDFPlayer.play (2); delay (300); }//setup void loop() { digitalWrite(ledPinON, HIGH); buttonState = digitalRead(triggerPin); if (buttonState == HIGH) { bomb (); } else { lights (); } } void lights() { currentMillis = millis(); doPulse(); doStates(); }//lights void doPulse() { if (currentMillis - previousMillisPulse >= pulseInterval) { pulseState = !pulseState; digitalWrite(LED_BUILTIN, pulseState); previousMillisPulse = currentMillis; } } void doStates() { switch (currentState) { case NORMAL: if (currentMillis - previousMillisBlink >= blinkInterval) { passNumber++; digitalWrite(ledPin1, led1StateN [arrayPos]); digitalWrite(ledPin2, led2StateN [arrayPos]); digitalWrite(ledPin3, led3StateN [arrayPos]); arrayPos++; if (arrayPos > 8) { arrayPos = 0; } previousMillisBlink = currentMillis; } if (!digitalRead(specialButtonPin)) { currentState = SPECIAL; arrayPos = 0; previousMillisBlink = currentMillis; } break; case SPECIAL: if (currentMillis - previousMillisBlink >= blinkInterval) { passNumber++; digitalWrite(ledPin1, led1StateS [arrayPos]); digitalWrite(ledPin2, led2StateS [arrayPos]); digitalWrite(ledPin3, led3StateS [arrayPos]); arrayPos++; previousMillisBlink = currentMillis; } if (arrayPos > 8) { currentState = NORMAL; arrayPos = 0; // Serial.println(" ******* Going to NORMAL ********"); } break; }//switch }//doStates void bomb () { myDFPlayer.play (1); delay (300); for (int counter = 1; counter <= 40; counter = counter + 1) { digitalWrite(ledPin1, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin2, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin3, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPinON, LOW); delay(100); digitalWrite(ledPin1, LOW); digitalWrite(ledPin2, LOW); digitalWrite(ledPin3, LOW); digitalWrite(ledPinON, HIGH); delay(100); } } Image: Wiring: Video:[/color][/b]

File Name: Thermal Detonator with Data Port Display Designer: The Elemental Brick Last Update:[/color][/b]08/12/2025 File: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2089339-thermal-detonator-with-data-port-display?from=search#profileId-2258414 Description: Thermal Detonator! This fun little model comes with a data port display stand and prints without supports or AMS and assemble without the need for glue! The detonator is about the size of a baseball at 73mm in diameter. Two versions are available, one smooth and one cracked and weathered. These come in many in many colors so have fun with them. The filaments pictured are: Bambu basic bronze, sunlu black, sunlu red, sunlu silk grey, polymaker ash grey and transparent yellow Images: