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Nobody asked for more Marvel memes, so here's another few! I feel like this meme format has a lot of potential for us TKs Bet it doesn't fit right whilst trooping

We are FISD

Stormtrooper Name Plate File-Name: Star Wars Imperial Soldier - Your Name Designer: davinchi20 Last Update: 03/16/2025 File-URL: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1210330-star-wars-imperial-soldier-your-name#profileId-1225031 Description: Feel free to personalize the name Inversion printing is recommended for enhanced quality You can put the name you want Print upside down for better quality Terms of Use: EXAMPLE ONLY yours may differ. This user content is licensed under a Standard Digital File License. You shall not share, sub-license, sell, rent, host, transfer, or distribute in any way the digital or 3D printed versions of this object, nor any other derivative work of this object in its digital or physical format (including - but not limited to - remixes of this object, and hosting on other digital platforms). The objects may not be used without permission in any way whatsoever in which you charge money, or collect fees. Image:

Hello everyone, This will be a build thread for a Night Trooper (NT). The plan is to provide a more detailed look into the build process of an NT than is currently available and maybe support the creation of the accompanying CRL. Despite this thread only covering the build of my armor, we are in general three troopers from the German Garrison's South Eastern Squad who plan to build Night Troopers: TK-30087 (Jochen), TK-55550 (Danny, who some of you might know :P), and myself, ST-30401 (Max, no TK yet). We are being supported by TK-22504 (Alex), who should be well known to people who were involved in or followed the development of the Ennoch CRL. As of now, we plan to print (most of) the hard parts ourselves based on the ROTK files from Akira-Yuming on CGTrader.com, which were also used by BigJasoni (TK-51923) for his ROTK. His build process of the RTK was also covered in a build thread in this forum. Below will be a list documenting the sources of files, and potentially other hard parts and soft parts used in the build. As of now, it is rough, rudimentary, and highly work in progress. It will be updated throughout the build process to serve as a collection of sources for the future. Helmet: to be determined (We are currently considering the helmet files created by PPCDIGITAL available on Etsy. However, we have not yet had the chance to verify their validity.) Armor Parts: Akira-Yuming's 3D files. Other Hardparts: to be determined Soft Parts: Neck Seal: to be determined (Keep Trooping New Era Neck Seal being considered) Undersuite: to be determined (Keep Trooping New Era Undersuit being considered) Gloves: to be determined (Endor Finders Rogue One Trooper Gloves being considered) Boots: to be determined (Keep Trooping Trooper WHITE Boots being considered) At the moment, I am planning to print the armor in ABS, as it is a material that allows for effective post-processing due to its high melting point. I am primarily using a Bambulab X1-Carbon for the printing. For larger armor elements, I will seek assistance since its printing space is somewhat limited.

Hello everyone! Just wanted to introduce myself, I’ve been a huge Star Wars fan since I was very young. It has been a dream of mine to have my own Star Wars Costume and join the 501st legion. I am based in Kentucky and have been looking at a garrison to join to start the process of joining the 501st. This has been a bit overwhelming haha. Lots to learn but I’m getting there. After nearly 10 years of dreaming of purchasing my own armor. I just wanted to say a special thanks to @IceStormTK for his wonderful YouTube videos on the RS PropMaster TK Armor. After many countless viewings and dreaming. I have placed my very own commission with RS Prop Masters and ordered The Empire Strikes Back Stormtrooper.

Have some marvelous memes! ... okay, that was bad

I am glad to have met Terrell on a sunny afternoon in Orlando. It was a gathering of FISD staff and attaches for lunch during Celebration in 2017. He will remain a very highly respected contributor to the detachment and our hobby, and forever remain in our thoughts and hearts. Buckets off in remembrance.

Hello everybody! It’s been a dream of mine to have my own set of stormtrooper armor and to participate in all the activities the 501 is known for. It would make my life to be able to visit a hospital to put smiles on a kid’s face. I’ve been contemplating pulling the trigger on this for a long, long time. It’s incredibly intimidating to me. But every member I’ve met at a comic con have been so welcoming and supportive. So now’s the time. I know I’ll need a lot of help. I’m not the craftiest guy in the world but I’m eager to learn.

New fixed TD pics uploaded

Yes yes, that last one in particular. :)

Good luck with the build/s. I would definitely have a look through the ROTK section for printed helmet info, many appear to use Nico helmet

On this day, 2021, I received an email from Terrell Reber, who most people know as the person behind ATA. In addition, he was an FISD DL, FISD XO (several times) and an all-around amazing human being. Little did I know that it would be the last time I ever heard from him, as shortly after he contracted and passed away from COVID, as did his wife. I have a ZIB (zero inbox) on my Gmail, or mostly, because I still can't bring myself to delete or even archive that last email from him. I still have the second ATA helmet he ever produced, and it's a cherished part of my collection. Terrell, you are sadly and sorely missed. Your expertise and dignity that you brought to our hobby was second to none. My bucket is off as I raise a glass to you, my friend.

It's just not the same not seeing ATA build threads anymore. Raising a glass Terrell you are sorely missed

An iPhone speaker? In a blaster? Madness surely? No, and you can blame model train people. I just stole it from them. To an extent a speaker is a speaker is a speaker. There's a few things you need to know about. One is the impedance measured in ohms (Ω) and the other one is wattage. When you drive the speaker most drivers will state what impedance they need, and how many watts they put out. So something like "4-8Ω 3W", which is what's on the driver I am using. You'll also find that most of these will put out more power, and so be louder, at the lower impedance so you want to shoot for 4 if you can. For this one it's 3W at 4ohms and only 1.8 at 8ohms. So with that in mind on to the speaker. I am using a speaker for an iPhone 8 plus, but anything in the iPhone 5-8 range is all similar in size for a give phone class (e.g. normal vs the larger plus models). These came from AliExpress and are quite affordable, I got a 5 pack for £2.93 (with free postage as I made my order over £8 to qualify for choice). I went with the bigger speaker as I have room, and in general bigger is better with speakers. If space is limited get a non-plus speaker and it will be around half the size but volume will probably suffer. The specs on these online are sparse so first job is to work out what impedance these are. Using a multi meter over the 2 contacts (not photos sorry those pins are tiny and needs both hands) and I got about 8.7 ohms. This is DC resistance, which isn't the same as impedance but close enough. 8 ohm speakers. We don't know what wattage they will take but the train people seem to drive them hard, but if yours blows up then sorry no warrantee here. But we want 4ohms for maximum loud from our pew pew so how do we do that. We use 2 speakers, and wire them in parallel. Thanks to physics 2 speakers (resistors) in parallel make a smaller one. I won't cover the maths but simply if you have 2 of the same resistance in parallel you halve the resistance. So our 8 ohm speakers will be one 4 ohm one once wired up. Now on how to do it. If you've got a different speaker, you're on your own but basically join both of + sides together and both of the - sides together. None of of this is marked, so just join them "the same" on each. If you don't it will work but the speakers will be backwards to each other and sound awful and weak (they will be out of phase). This is how I did it: First the speakers have a few bits of plastic sticking out so those where trimmed with a pair of flush cutters. This isn't 100% needed but makes the package tidier. In order to parallel the speakers I decided to "piggy back them". So started by picking one speaker and bending out the contacts so they stuck straight out and so would fit over the side of the lower speaker. I then stacked the speakers. Due to the shape I sandwiched in a bit of 1.5mm HIPS I had lying around to pack out the air gap. With them carefully positioned so that the bent leg touched the unbent leg on the lower speaker, I applied a tiny bit of flux from a flux pen and tack soldered one side, then the same on the other side. Now things where stable I applied a little more solder to make the joint more solid. Care is needed here, these are small pins and you also don't want to cook the speaker by applying too much heat for too long. To attach the leads I pre soldered (aka tinned) both the wire and the connections again with some flux. This means the join is just a case of holding the wire in place and re-heating which makes the whole process far easier, but was still fiddly. I did add a touch more solder but this is probably unnecessary. At this point it's probably wise to test things. Hook it up make sure it works and sounds good. All okay, then you can move on. If not check things like you haven't created a short or melted the speaker by checking the resistance across the speaker if you have a meter, you're looking for something like 4-5 ohms of DC resistance. Things work but are fragile so lets try add some strength. First grab som 2-3mm heat shrink about 2-3cm long and slide it over the leads and slide it up close as you can whilst still being gentle. Ideally use a heat gun to shrink this in a more controlled manor than a lighter. Next we want to glue things in place to further strengthen things. You can use hot glue if you want, but this can be messy so I went with 8 year old E6000 as I had some left and seemed perfect for the job. This looks messy but the E6000 self levelled quickly and looked a lot cleaner. We want to glue the contacts, and also the wire it's self so hopefully there will be no strain on the contacts. Really you should now wait 12 hours or so for the glue to go off, but I am lazy and wanted it done. The final step in adding strength is more heat shrink. I want to say this was in the region of 13mm dia but may have been more like 15mm. I just grabbed some the right size from my stash. Cut a bit the right length to cover the whole assembly and shrink down again. And you're all done. Here is a comparison vs the typical 28mm speaker people generally use in blasters and lightsabres. It's a a little bigger but I think the shape means it will fit inside a blaster a bit easier and be less awkward to mount. It also sounds significantly nicer.

Thank you. Right now I'm deciding between two things: 1) one of two versions of an ISB supervisor uniform (which I realize in the IOC world, not here), and 2) an OT stormtrooper armor build, which I know is my ultimate goal whether I do the officer uniform first or not. I've looked at the CRLs for the various versions and have six tabs open of forum threads to read tonight, so I'll be learning more. Do most people start with the Stunt version or is there a preference?

All that's left is basically GML approval.

Alright, got it mocked up, using a TIE pilot bust as a stand, and I gotta say I'm loving it so far. The printed brow trim actually looks pretty damn good. Once I get the white parts all smoothed and shined up I'm going to add the black paint to the tear and trap recesses and adhere everything together, just gotta make the time to do that next!