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Thanks everyone for the replies, very informative. I'll definitely fork out for a big enough crate to keep it all in.

https://www.airgas.com/product/Safety-Products/Head%2C-Eye-%26-Face-Protection/Headgear-%26-Faceshields/p/RAD64051722 This is what the lens looks like installed. Truely I was worried if it was dark enough. I think I will get 3 lends from the sheet

Hi, am totally jumping in on a Enoch build and reading over this thread has been informative. I plan printing up McFlyPrint's armor and after mentioning to him that his thigh armor needed a tweet due to an edge he created, he happily made the adjustments and will be updating his main file if anyone has had an interest in getting his files. Cool thing is that he's open to make any other modifications that will meet the eventual CRL requirements. ✌️

As one of our local experts in getting cracks (wonder how that could be ) here's my advice: - be careful when taking your armor off. Seconding @andylah here, cause I've gotten a few cracks when the snaps got stuck or I was careless - be careful when moving. You've likely got a more limited range of motion when in armor than outside of it. Now, don't let the fear stop you from sitting down! But move slowly and avoid "rolling" over your armor (for example, sitting on the front part of your buttplate and then shifting your weight backwards). Sit straight down, adjust carefully. - if your armor pieces get caught/stuck, don't remove them with force. It won't ever turn out well. - there are a variety of repairs. Fabric with superglue is easy and fast (ideal for at a troop!) but it's the most likely to crack again, since it's really thin. ABS paste also doesn't tend to hold up well, so only use it for filling up gaps or cracks. Instead I recommend pieces of ABS plastic glued into your armor. If you've shaped them properly (curved to fit the armor piece, a bit larger than the crack) they almost never open back up again, and even if they do, it's highly unlikely to become bigger. - don't bend your armor or put stress onto it, if you can avoid it. Bend your ABS often enough and it'll crack. - remove unnecessary return edges in high stress areas: I recommend no return edges on your buttplate if you want to sit down in armor. Not only is it more comfortable, but without a return edge the armor won't crack as easily. Personally, with my next ANH armour I'll be removing the buttplate return edge and I'll put some ABS into the codpiece, buttplate and chestplate arm holes, since those were my common crack areas. Just don't let the fear of cracks stop you from having fun! Checking your armor after every troop and repairing cracks as soon as they appear will help you keep your armor looking good. Hope this helps!

Another piece to preventing cracks is not rushing, take your time to kit up and equally take your time getting dekit. The number of times I have seen damage happen taking a kit off is not one, so be careful.... I ONLY use hard crates for armour and even them am careful with how its handled. Like others have said reinforce the shoulder straps (and be careful with them when packing/unpacking, and reinforce your edges where you can....

Storage and transport: I use a suitcase. Same set up as Chris where you fit pieces inside each other. As to crack repairs, I have used both the fabric backing method, and the ABS piece glued behind method. It really depends on where the crack is to how I make my repairs. Have also made ABS paste to clean up crack lines, specially on the shoulder bridges, after I have backed them with shape ABS for reinforcement. It's a good practice to always keep some of your ABS off cuts from the build process of a TK, as the rigours of trooping are not always kind to your armour.

I have Anovos which isn’t the thickest of armours. I didn’t do anything ahead of time but as cracks develop I’ve been using bits do an old shirt and superglue to “fix” them. Essentially the same idea as fibreglass. I cut a small section of white cotton from a tshirt a small amount larger than the crack. Put a small dot of glue on the crack and place the material where you want it. Then flood the material with glue. This goes hard in about a minute. It does put out a lot of fumes so goggles are smart. In theory you could also use an epoxy glue too but you’re now looking at an hour or so. Whereas I’ve fixed armour mid troop with the superglue method. Storage for me for a long time was a big Stanley box but it’s a huge thing to keep around or transport so it’s currently in the shed. My armour is in a suitcase. A slightly larger one would be nice but they can be just as expensive as the trunks.