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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/02/2024 in all areas

  1. Requesting access - TK13836 https://www.501st.com/members/searchresults.php?searchfield=13836&criteria=tkid
    2 points
  2. https://i.imgur.com/GCZ8hrR.mp4 I posted earlier in the wrong section I think, but super happy on how this turned out! Make sure the volume is on. When I printed my abs, I created a cavity for a 4" speaker and a passive bass port. I house a 20w amplifier in the chest section. The voice modulator is located in the back piece. Im using a wireless mic so there are no wires going to the helmet. Enjoy!
    1 point
  3. A few threads which may be of interest, some items may have changed due to CRL updates, we don't see many FX builds these days, best to check them against what you have in your hands, CRL's here https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:FISD_CRL This thread will help you find accessories and build info Thread on using 3d party host for images due to forum attachment restrictions
    1 point
  4. If the tube stripes are stickers you could carefully lift and pull off the front ones and lean forward (from the top) a little more. I have used tape in the past to help pull the stickers off to move. You do have big gaps to the ear so I would add a few more stipes, note the first reference below has 16 stripes. DO reference guide: Ideally at Level 2 tube stripes are approximately 1 cm (5/16ths) away from the cheek, and should also lean toward the front.
    1 point
  5. Yes. I went with the complete package on electronics.
    1 point
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  8. Thanks for your responses! One of the posters asked if there was any other costumes I am thinking about and I plan on sticking with the ANH TK for a while. I have a Hasbro E-11 blaster that I painted and added some screws and others things to it so my next big purchase will be a better quality E-11. i also need to work on my armor some more. I have the complete electronics suite in my helmet but the tips of the outtakes for the fans stick into my checks. Thankfully, we have a good Garrison and squad so I should be getting some help.
    1 point
  9. here are five Star Wars-themed dad jokes for you: Why did Anakin Skywalker cross the road? To get to the Dark Side. How do you unlock doors in the Star Wars universe? With a Jedi "key"-nobi. What did Yoda say when he saw himself in 4K? "HDMI clear, the picture is." Why did Kylo Ren go to school? To improve his Force-math skills. What's a Jedi's favorite toy? A yo-"droid".
    1 point
  10. For basic approval (the OP's question) grody rivets are allowable. Sadly. But like Paul said... If you're redoing an FX anyways... Why not go EIB -Eric Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  11. No, you got it spot on. From the neck down, it should take about $50 and a few hours of work. At least, that's how we designed it to be, so that there really was no excuse from any FX trooper from going EI. The helmet though has to be replaced in toto. Also, for many older kits it was normal to rivet the shoulder bridges to the chest/back. If you've done this, you need to drill out the rivets and replace the shoulder bridges.
    1 point
  12. The short list to replace (I think): Helmet Belt Holster Ab buttons And cut the kidney and butt plate to make two parts. Did I miss anything from the CRL? -Eric Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
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