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https://i.imgur.com/GCZ8hrR.mp4 I posted earlier in the wrong section I think, but super happy on how this turned out! Make sure the volume is on. When I printed my abs, I created a cavity for a 4" speaker and a passive bass port. I house a 20w amplifier in the chest section. The voice modulator is located in the back piece. Im using a wireless mic so there are no wires going to the helmet. Enjoy!

Thanks to both of you. Sounds like I will use snaps, and then I can still have the choice of either nylon or elastic.

I'll second Glen's recommendation of elastic to allow for some movement. In reference to the discussion a few posts up, I also recommend at least having the forearms be able to separate from the rest of the arm armor. Even though I only have 5 troops under my belt, being able to remove my forearm armor has come in handy a number of times. This is usually when I've had to eat but didn't want to take off all my armor. It's surprising how much mobility just taking off the forearm armor will provide you!

You may want to try before you decide, having some give in some areas is a good idea, especially ones that move, keeping armor in particular lengths apart may cause armor bites once you move.

That's fantastic!!! Sounds just right.

I had to size it down a bit because my printer was a bit to small. Anyway, with spraypaint and glossy finisher it can look like this:

First leg is done. Looks way better

Thanks, Glen, it certainly feels so! I am now officially motivated (had a bad motivator before ).

One place that I found useful was gluing 2" nylon directly to my biceps and forearms. It keeps the spacing at your elbows constant and wont stretch like elastic. And don't forget to burn the ends of the nylon you cut! A 2 inch piece will turn into a 10 foot string! You can see it here without my undersuit on.

Double snaps everywhere, even on limbs. I will have to order more snaps! I do just to be safe but others are fine with only one snap, my main area I've had snaps fail was shoulders and having the spare meant I could keep trooping Nylon is used on the armor side, elastic for connections Correct, in some areas double over the elastic for strength, shoulder strap chest-backplate, also abdomen-kidney Nylon looks like it's 1" wide and 2" long. I've seen people use ABS instead, or sandwiched ABS inside nylon. Seems like if the armor is thick enough, and I'm using authentic E-6000 glue, I should be good to go with just nylon. I just find nylon conforms to the armor better and you don't need to recess the snap but you do with plastic snap plates, but either way works fine. I do have small pieces of ABS strips I use on both sides of the nylon to clamp down so it stays flat when drying. Elastic is 2" wide, and its length will depend on what sections are being mated. Using discretion, place female snaps 5mm shorter than where they should be when the elastic is relaxed Elastic sizing info here From the Supply List: -. Elastic- 1 inch wide black for shoulder bells, etc. (4 ft.) 2 inch wide white for ab/back plate shoulder connection (1 ft.), 1 inch wide white for drop boxes, (1 ft.) 1/4 inch wide white** (1 ft.) for shoulder straps. -. Nylon strapping- 1 inch wide black, at least 6 to 8 ft. long. 2 inch wide black (48 inches) for high tension areas if you are using the double snap method. (NP) Double over ends of elastic so snaps go through more material = strength. Some areas you can but depends on your snaps, some have shorter posts and you can't double over the material Make a jig with two holes in it to ensure that snap spacing is the same everywhere. Burn holes with soldering iron using this jig. Also, using the iron, seal the edges of the nylon and elastic so fraying is prevented. Just makes life a little easier using a jig, in case you make any too short or long you can use in other places. Sound OK? Is there any strapping that goes between the thighs and shins to maintain that gap? Otherwise it seems like the shins could droop quite a bit. Not between the thighs and shins, the shins sit on top of the boot, thighs are held up with belt/harness. Some add a loop of elastic or velcro in the top front loop of the boot which connects to the inside of the shin to stop them coming upwards or rotating. I have mine on the front, some add them to the back I think that's everything

I prefer using snaps, it's easy to swap them out if any elastic stretches over time, also easy to swap out if you need to shorten or lengthen the elastic. I found using nylon was the easiest for snaps as the nylon conforms to the armor and does not need recessing, unlike snap plates that take a little more work. Here's a full set I made for another members build Most elastic I shorten the position of snaps by 5 mm, gives a little extra pull when wearing. I also have some snaps added to a strip of elastic in a few places so I can trial the length and change position to work out the best length. I also like to double snap, not everyone does but I found it saved me at a troop once when my shoulder straps snap failed and I had the spare one These may be of help Rivet Setting 101 by justjoseph63 (Print PDF) Snap Setting 101 by justjoseph63 (Print PDF) Snap Placement Snap Setting Hardware Solutions by TheRascalKing E6000 and Snaps Discussion by Harbinger, Snap Options by ukswrath Snaps with Rivet Heads by TheSwede

Tyler Smith 82278 Centurion Letter TKSpartan Here you go Centurion ! https://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/82278-centurion.png