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Not mentioning any names

Finished! Again, please keep in mind that this 3D E-11 kit was apparently designed from the "Battlefront" videogame version so there are some significant differences. Most I could overcome, but a big one was the holes in the shroud. They simply do not correspond to the screen used (MGC) ones. I got as close as I could, so bear that in mind. Once I got ready to mount the U channels I found that my rivet gun was too wide to fit down into the channels themselves (pic 1). After a few choice curse words muttered under my breath I knew had to figure out how to attach them. I briefly considered screws, but it just wouldn't be the same. SO, I separated the rivets (14 of them), separated the mandrels (center parts), cut down the length and epoxied them back into the rivet pins as seen in the second 2 pics below. I should have mentioned before that when building the main body that I installed a thin metal tube inside the shroud to give the appearance of an actual barrel. Oops. My plan ended up as seen below (pic 1). Drill out the holes on the channels and shroud/barrel (just as one normally would) but I epoxied each modified rivet in. I was afraid this may make it sort of fragile, but after the epoxy set they are actually very sturdy. WHEW! HINT: Drill all holes in the channels and shroud BEFORE attaching them. The holes for the rivets were integrated into the print, but they did not line up correctly (mainly due to the barrel mods) so I drilled new ones. Hint: Make sure the holes for the rivets are between the holes in the shroud (pic 2). The channel that sits on the left side will have to have the bottom bent down on the front to accommodate the front "D" ring. HINT: Attach the D-ring/mount AFTER attaching the channels. The stock that came with the kit was too long after cutting down the length of the of the shroud earlier , and to add some "heft" I used a real vintage Sterling folding stock for this build, which differs slightly from the original- especially in the area seen with the red arrow (first pic). Not too noticeable, but I hope it doesn't keep me up at night thinking about it.** I did add the rivet on the side, which as I mentioned before will prevent the stock from extending. **It will. After touching up the paint and letting that dry overnight, I added some light weathering. Had these made for all my display pieces. And that's it. Finished, and finally added to my "wall-o'-weapons". To anyone who has followed this, thanks for looking! U-Channels- After spending more time that I care to admit to searching for these, I finally found a seller (George) on the RPF. Once he got them made shipping was fast and I honestly could not be more pleased with the quality. A little pricey, but well worth every cent in my opinion. Link to his sales thread on the RPF here. UPDATE: I did not realize that the seller was actually Caleb @TKCaleb who has been a member here since 2008. SO- it looks like you can contact him here as well!

You guys are incredible! Thanks for the encouragement ☺️ ok, I can do this

Accurate I'll admit, and better than our perceived image:

This is normal for AP armour.

Painting the tubestripes… NERVE RACKING!! [emoji33] Hey troopers, Welcome back. I’ve not painted the tubestripes onto this beautiful helmet. I’ve gone fully old school, using just masking tape and freehand painting. As I discuss in the video, I certainly wasn’t overly pleased with the results as I was doing it, however, once I took a step back and came back to the helmet the next day, I realised that they weren’t anywhere near as bad as I first thought. Here’s some photos of how it’s looking now. And now for some “arty” shots, including my “replica” helmet mixes in with an ANH screenshot: And finally, here’s my latest video of the build, including the tubestripes being painted: Thanks for reading, Dan

updated yoke: I actually swapped anovos out because it would be more difficult to undo all the JB I used. now I’m moving on to cleaning and repainting parts. After that will be addressing all the suiting up errors which can be fixed. Also planing on adding more velcro or magnet to reduce the TD gap even more.

This thread may help you Also this one Another good build with some references

Welcome to FISD James! You have certainly come to the right place for all the information you could ever want on Stormtroopers. These forums are vast and may seem overwhelming but fear not, we have your back. Ask as many questions as you can and our staff and members will guide you all the way to completion of your costume. The 501st pride themselves on a reasonably high level of accuracy when it comes to costuming, and as many will tell you, this hobby not only requires plenty of research, it also isn't necessarily cheap. The vendors list supplied in a prior post is a good guide to reputable armour sellers, generally a safe bet to go through one of them for good quality kit. You can have armour built for you but that certainly adds to the overall cost, so most of us assemble the kits ourselves which makes for the best fit as well as saving a few bucks. Good luck on your journey sir and once again, welcome to FISD.

Unfortunately most have gone for for the plastic Anovos helmets as they found the KB helmet needed a lot of work, there are a couple of threads but only a few pictures for the KB helmet, none really working on the issues. And a TLJ KB helmet There is also KB Props build group on Facebook which may have some photos of builds https://www.facebook.com/groups/212554895893880

Hello and welcome aboard. If there is any differences in your cods this would be for the TFA and TLJ versions, there are a few things different depending on what version you build. Can't go past @ukswrath FOTK build And also @sillyface When in doubt head to our gallery sections https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/category/20-fotk-reference/ Good luck with the build

UPDATE: Now that I am settled in to my new home, I dug this project out so that I can finish it up this weekend. I had quite a bit of trouble sourcing the U-channels, but finally found a set online (details to follow). Although not inexpensive, they are crazy accurate and arrived pre-cut to the correct lengths with the corners rounded. Made of 22 gauge aluminum they are incredibly sturdy. As I mentioned, this will be a display piece but I am sure they would hold up even under rigorous trooping. A quick sand with 220 grit paper to help paint adhesion, a thorough cleaning and 3 coats of paint later they are DONE! Next up: Attaching the folding stock, front D ring, U channels and weathering.

It didnt sit right with me to leave the 3D files the same since Ive learned a lot and made so many changes. I had a few hours free tonight and decided to fix it up. I present the V3 (I think its 3, lost count) Files. Some small tweaks to go but the majority is fixed. Changes include: - New eyes - Modified tears - New Vocoder - Correct Faceplate positioning - More pronounced cheeks - New ears (may need some tweaks) Comparison to V2 on the Left, V3 on right. As always let me know what you think