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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/29/2022 in Posts
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3 points
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So, today worked out spectacularly, so here's the updates: A little more than 10 seconds, but here's the freshly painted vocoder Yes, not the best background for these types of pictures, but if I wanted this done today, this background was my only choice. Drop boxes sit nicely, the rest hopefully does too. Hope this is all, I'm looking forward to your feedback2 points
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Nice work trooper, you may just want to give that Hengstler a little twist For reference2 points
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Hi Luca, and THANKS for your awesome submission for E.I.! I can tell that you really put your heart into this build, sir... so many aspects are absolute textbook. But (as you were probably expecting) there are a few items. Nothing that you can't take care of in a few minutes, but we have faith in you! First up is the drop box on the right side. It's a small thing, but the edges need to line up just as they do on your left side. A dab of E-6000 behind the rear of the strap and you are good to go! I know it may be a pain, but we will need an updated photo (right side only, suited up) once you get this done. Not a deal breaker for Level 2, but the vocoder should be symmetrical on both sides. 10 seconds with a paintbrush will do the trick. KUDOS: Fantastic to see that you painted your hand guards! Also wanted to say that you really did an outstanding job on lining up the sniper knee plate with the ridges on the shin. Not the easiest of feats (especially with RS) but you made it work! Does it stick out a bit on the bottom (yellow arrow)? Yep, but I LOVE it! Well done!2 points
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My EIB Application is out there, so here's the last things that I did before applying. Or, more accurately, that T-Jay did before my application. Thanks for another amazing day, the pictures, the help and, of course, my E-11. It's a thing of beauty and I love it very much Handguards If you're at all familiar with my last few pictures of me in armor, you'll have noticed one distinguishing detail especially: yellowed hand guards. As we were looking over the armor parts and I was showing off my handcuffs, we spontaneously decided to use some of Tino's white paint and give the handguards a more fitting look for a TK. E-11 An awesome Troopacoola kit, built by T-Jay with his vast knowledge on everything E-11? You know it's gonna be amazing Thank you so much, Tino, for all your work and effort, for the personalization and the feedback. The entire time I'm wiring this, I'm just sneaking glances at the blaster in front of me2 points
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Mandatory Information Armor = RS Kit Helmet= RS Kit Blaster= Troopacoola Kit, assembled by T-Jay Optional Height = 177cm Weight = 55kg Boots = Imperial Boots Canvas belt = RS Hand Plates = RS Neck Seal = RS Holster = Darman Full Body Armor Details Helmet Details Accessories Blaster Details If any pictures are missing, please let me know. Thanks for your consideration!1 point
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Hello all. It's been 13 years on the Outer Rim and have finally been able to send a transmission! lol I have been involved in hundreds of troops over those years. Along side many like minded folk. Trooping has taken me behind the scenes in places only trooping take you. It has been a privilege to say the least to wear the armour and add joy to so many peoples lives...Young and old alike. The last few years have been crazy for the entire Galaxy. It's fabulous to finally reach out to my fellow TK's Thank you for having me aboard.1 point
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Great! Welcome to "Research fun time!" Use the search function and find other WTF builds, go over them and learn from their mistakes (you will see a few of the same). If it were me, I started with the helmet because you can wear it around the house and keep yourself motivated for the rest of the build.1 point
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Keeping fingers crossed for your higher level application(s). It has been a pleasure to meet you again and especially to hand over that E-11 to you. I hope it lasts a very long time and you will have a lot of fun with it.1 point
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Just got my approval email today for my FOTK kit. Going from TB-13435 to TK-13435 is quite a bit different. new found respect for TKs, it is some much easier to move around and do things in my Scout kit. now I need to finish my ANH TK. Great to to be a part of the 501st cheers!1 point
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Do you have access to an extra rivet? When I built my armor, RS had supplied an extra for cases like this (which I did need). Maybe you could contact RS and ask them for a replacement, they usually have a pretty accommodating customer service. Good luck!1 point
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Little update: Well I made a mistake. I don´t know how it happend but after putting in the holes and the rivets I saw that one of the rivets is damaged. On top of that the rivets don´t sit flush because it´s on a curve. Again I don´t know why I didn´t realized it.1 point
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Very interesting, thanks for the background info -- I had no clue where those pictures came from, only that they looked legit, that a DO said that the counter is angled and that in a later comment on the thread it was said that both versions should pass for EIB/Centurion. Gotta keep an eye out if I can spot this on screen as well. As my counter is currently easily turned a few millimeters to either direction I've got no problems submitting an additional picture with the counter parallel to the main body, in order to cut down on those wait times Thanks for your feedback, sir, it's always a joy learning more about these fascinating costumes1 point
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Entirely up to you what you do, the common general appearance is mainly used for reference with applications, what you change now could save some wait time when possibly pointed out by the DO's. The reference images you show are not from the movie, they are from the Propstore who did resell some blasters over the years, normally only screen images are used for reference purposes by the DO's1 point
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Now this is a comment, I've been expecting, given the fact that this alignment is very unusual and based on something Joseph pointed out here recently. It is, apparently, more canon than not having it twisted. EDIT: "Placement of the counter is ideally mounted slightly above the folding stock rail with the rear lined up above the stock bolt as seen below. As seen in the last 3 images below, the counter is angled and follows the contour of the folding stock." Still, here's a picture with the counter in the more common alignment, just for you, Glen. I will be turning it back into the twisted position as soon as possible tho The one time that that dropbox is not aligned... Oh well, thanks for pointing it out! I'll take that right side photo as soon as I find the time for a suit up. Do I need to retake the entire full body shot, or is a more detail focused picture enough? Because for a full-body I'd have to wait until the weekend, given that I've got no-one around who could help me suit up before my troop this weekend, detail I could get done on my own this evening. Regarding the vocoder it appears to me, as if putting more paint on top of the two right ones would make it less symmetrical, but I'll give it another look when I'm broadening that one stroke. Again, thanks for the feedback, I very much appreciate it! Thank you so much, sir! That sniper plate was, after all, the reason I joined the FISD and started a build thread, so I'm glad to see it turned out as well and better than I was expecting. Thanks, bro! Haha, and now it's even been revealed why my memes have been focusing on the DOs and higher level stuff so often lately If there's anything else missing/needing another suit up, please point it out to me, otherwise I'll try to get those pictures to you as soon as possible.1 point
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The biggest issue right now is the increased price of ABS due to more limited supply and perhaps higher production costs. Some armor makers aren’t even producing due to supply or expense challenges. Up until now perhaps the most well known “budget” kits have come from ATA and MTK (Trooperbay). However, ATA is currently unavailable and Mark with MTK is on a production hold. In Europe I believe DA Props tends to be on the lower price range. When I last checked I believe the MonCal (Far Away Creations) had kits in the US for not a lot more than those aforementioned. Best thing would be to check out that vetted list that Glen linked to, and reach out to some makers to see what they have available and at what price. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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Good luck Luca. It's good to see photos of the trooper behind all the great memes!1 point
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I might be a little late to the party here, but this is inaccurate. There is nothing in the CRL for the ANH TK regarding the forearms that says anything about the number of squares. I cut off a few of mine, no problems at all. https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt Forearms Forearms are fully closed. Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded in to the part. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed. Forearms must be constructed using the butt joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. For the ANK TK, it's never been an issue for basic through Centurion approvals.1 point
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A suggestion: You might consider lining up the tops of the forearms, and trimming from the bottom (while adjusting at the back for width). There is detail at the top that you really don't want to lose too much of. You'll most likely need to recreate the swoop on the inner forearm to accommodate for the size reduction and for mobility. In case you haven't seen it, here is how I sized down a forearm that had ridges on both halves. I think Glen is saying that you cut straight along the bottom of the forearm. But the forearm itself can taper inwards at the wrist- is that what you're asking? So the forearm is slightly more narrow at the wrist, a bit larger at the elbow.1 point