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I figured it out!! Below are images from my start of painting my bucket. I'm using masking tape for straighter lines on the vents, as you can see. I plan on using a second coat then letting it dry completely. I had the idea of scoring the paint along tape prior to pulling it off so it will be less likely to pull some of the paint. Hopefully this coming weekend but we'll see what life has to say about that.

Hey all! Long time since an update, but the end of the world and me working from home has got me inspired to push and finish this beast! We also got a new puppy two months ago (another tri-pawd of course...) so we have been kept fairly busy! Doggy break! Anyways... So, I finally got used to my resin printer and designed some small pieces in Sketchup to hold the electronics in position. Starting from the left: "L" shaped piece will hold the digital scope display inside the blaster, behind the circle cut out. The funny shaped piece with pointy bit was part of a digital MG34 file I found online. Very accurate files that I may use to build another resin DLT... I am only using the pointy bit, which in the real world holds the bipod legs against the barrel. Above this is a circle which will hold the scopes red and magnifying lenses. I added two simple greeblie bumps for visual interest. To the extreme right you see several copies of the main digital display holder. These caused a bit of a head ache to design, size and print. From top down: V1.0 1st print was good. but undersized and wouldn't fit the display. I added two greeblie buttons to the design on the right which may be painted red and blue? V2.0 was modified slightly to hold the display better, buttons moved to left side, and it was enlarged. Unfortunately, I calculated the sizing conversion wrong moving from Sketchup to Chitubox program. It was now too large. V3.0 is the pile of 4 holders that ended up as mis-prints. The back wall wouldn't print properly. This was a combination of a slight modification I made in Skecthup, and me finding out the build plate of the printer had loosed slightly. V4.0 are the two prints at the bottom. They turned out great. However, the display opening is slightly large and you will be able to see the wire connectors (see pics below). Since I don't want to do another print and waste resin, I will just use some modelling skills on this one. I also printed a proper cocking handle from that MG34 file I found. It is hollow, properly sized and the knurling detail on the is beautiful! I just have to replace the big screw attachment part with the one from the kit supplied piece I have. Lenses inside their holder. Scope display on it's holder. You will see in below pics where this will sit inside the blaster. Main display in the holder. I will need to trim the right hand side (closet to blaster receiver) as it is slightly long and sticks out past the end of the blaster box on the left. You'll see what I mean in below pics. Also may need to block in the opening on the right so the wire connectors aren't seen. Another view. I designed an opening on the right so the wires can go into the receiver through the previously drilled hole (see earlier posts). Here is a crappy pic of the L shaped scope display holder blue-tacked into place temporarily. All the items blue-tacked for fit. You can see how the main display holder stick out from the blaster on left. I want this to sit flush. Hopefully this will all look good when done and blend into the blaster as if it was designed to be there. Yes, it's not "canon", but could be a slight modification (DLT-19A-1....?) just like all TK blasters are slightly different (wires or no wires, Counter or no counter....etc) Hopefully the next post will be sooner than 4 months! Stay safe everyone.

I've had some extra time on my hands, so I decided to build this to round out my OT trilogy E-11 collection. Since finding an MGC blaster** is like locating the Holy grail, I found the closest 3D print I could. I'm not going to list the designer of the file as unfortunately there are many things that are not as accurate as I would like since it's the "Battlefront" version. I'm sure it would be fine for approval at all levels when built as-is, but as usual I have to push the envelope. Will it be 100% accurate? Not really, but since it will be used for display only I am hoping to get as close as I can. I have my work cut out for me, but I am looking forward to the challenge! Any comments/suggestions are welcome. ** This version is based on the Sterling Mark V Canadian C1 type as opposed to the British L2A3, so there are quite a few differences. Know in advance that this will be crazy pic-heavy, and since I have to alter so many parts I will do them in separate posts and add after completion I will add links to each one at the bottom of this post. This way it will be easier to skip to the item when needed. So, on with the show: Supplies: 1. JB PlasticWeld- (A must have. Can be drilled/sanded/painted). 2. Bondo Glazing & Spot putty- Awesome stuff. 3. Rustoleum Primer/Filler (sandable) 4. Rotary tool (Dremel type) 5. Sanding drums 6. Needle files 7. Sandpaper (80 to 400 grit) 8. Scrap ABS pieces 1 2 3 4 5 6 Here is the kit in it's raw form printed in PETG. I missed a few of the small items, but the majority can be seen. Two BIG shout-outs to: Caleb @ticopowell for not only printing this kit for me, but helping me with the designs. Germain @The5thHorseman for the precise greeblie file. You guys are AWESOME!

So here is the plan- I recently built a spare ANH E-11 from one of Bryan's crazy accurate 3D kits, (link here), but since I will need a blaster for my current ESB armor build I will eventually need a weapon, so I decided to convert it. In looking at the reference photos here, there are 2 main versions- one using an actual Sterling L2A3 and a resin type (Pugman). Note that there are also some really odd versions, but I am not sure of their background so I am not referencing them. Because I will be using the ANH version, mine will be a based on the Sterling. IMPORTANT! For those doing an ESB build, there are 2 versions of this blaster that can be used for approval. Neither has the Hengstler counter or power cylinders, and the differences can be found in the CRL here. This version is just more involved. Sterling L2A3 version Resin cast "Pugman" version (note scope rail) Materials: 1. JB Plastic Weld epoxy putty- When dry, this can be sanded, drilled and painted. AWESOME stuff! 2. Bondo Glazing/spot putty*** (for a smoother finish). 3. Sandpaper (various grits- 80 to 400) 4. Needle files 5. Dremel type rotary tool 6. Sanding drums 1. 2. 4. 5. 6. *** Please be aware that this product should only be used outdoors or in a well ventilated area. It is also highly suggested that you use a mask and gloves. All that being said, time to get down to business. In addition to the greeblies, there are a few issues on the main body that will need to be addressed: The first thing to do is grind off the end muzzle disc, as most of the references do not show one present. After removing the disc, I filled the holes where the screws were with the Plastic Weld putty (sorry, I lost the pics of the filled part), let it dry 4-5 hours and then filed/sanded it down. A thin coat of the glazing putty made it perfectly smooth. Note that I put the new holes in the top/bottom as opposed to the sides. Before References After grinding Finished After removing the D-ring/mounting plate**, some glazing putty, sanding and paint made for a smooth finish. **You may be able to pop it off with some pliers, but I had to grind mine down. The only other alteration I made to the body was to remove the small tubular part that holds the grub screw on the side of the magazine well. After Dremeling (is that even a word? lol) it off level and filling the hole with the Plastic weld, it was sanded and painted. Before References Detail- (This is from my ROTJ build, but it gives you an idea of what to remove. Keep the triangle part. Finished Next up, the greeblies... stay tuned

Just eye ball it, they should be the same.

Legs. Need to taper the gaskets. Going with the overlap inside of thighs, but epoxied closed as plenty of room to slip on. For the shins I will overlap but use a magnet closure. With the OTTK I made the shins fit my body, but does the FOTK keep a larger diameter and you use foam inside to keep it centered on the leg? For the spats, does the top have a return edge? I will do the double magnet closure system, so lots of work still to do on this part. Last question, does the spat need to rest on the shin (I see KB kits have a groove) or can it be free floating below it?

Hi Richard, I just saw your post...thanks and I will definitely check that out. I've been busy lately with "life" stuff and just now getting back into it. I'll be posting some photos of my bucket paint job so please feel free to make recommendations and suggestions.

LOL. Yup. I may even get it done for the final season...

Hey Jonas! Good to hear from you! I didn't know you were doing a snowie. That's awesome! I've also started the Boba Build. Now THAT will take a while...

Folding stock mount As seen in the reference images, the stock mount is completely different than the L2A3 type. Starting with the existing mount (3), I built it up with the JB weld until I got it in the general shape I wanted (4). After sanding and to get the right shape, I removed the bottom (5) and added ABS pieces to the sides and bottom (6). References 3 4 5 6 End result

Too long! After joining the 3 pieces of the shroud, I noticed that it was actually about 5/8ths of an inch (3 cm) too long and the flash guard sat too far forward (2). After sanding down the outside and a few coats of primer/filler I cut it down (3). Holes were filled with the JB weld epoxy/sanded smooth and I had to make a new flash guard out of ABS (4). (5) shows the original position. Reference 2 3 4 5

Main body The kit came with inside tubes to join the 3 pieces. Since the majority of then inserts will not be visible, I only sanded/filled/sanded the area that will be seen.

Ejection port opening This was integrated into the print (2). I used the Dremel to remove it and sanded down the edges (3). The connector piece (4) fit perfectly inside, but I had to sand down a section (#4-in yellow) so that I could add the "front" of the bolt (5) made from an ABS scrap, but I made that part too long. It's glued now so no changing it. I used a galvanized nail with the end rounded off and the top removed for the bottom. Reference 2 3 4 5

Just wait until you see the ROTJ version I have been plugging away at. WAY more involved... (I really do need to get a life).

Character Research Name: Captain Cardinal; CD-0922; Archex History: Born on Jakku and was recruited by Brendol Hux. One of the first First Order Stormtroopers. Was the first captain of the First Order Stormtroopers. Given a set of red armor by Brendol Hux and made his honor guard. Was in charge of training all Stormtroopers, until Phasma joined the First Order, and then was in charge of the training of all the children who were to become stormtroopers. Was grievously wounded by Phasma, and left the First Order. He later helps the Resistance on Batuu, and eventually sacrifices his life help Batuu and the Resistance spy, Vi Moradi. Costume: There are four main visual references for Captain Cardinal. The first is the back of the book cover. Second is the promotional poster that was released with book Third is the Hasbro Black Series action figure. There are several detail pictures found here on FISD, so I will just post one. Lastly is the Black series helmet. Discrepancies: The helmet from the book cover and promotional poster is visualized as TFA style, while the Black Series action figure and helmet are from TLJ/TROS. It is my belief that the TFA style helmet/armor is correct due to the timeline. The beginning of Galaxy's Edge: Black Spire (which is a sequel of sorts to Phasma) is set several weeks after Captain Cardinal leaves the First Order. During the first part of that book, events of TFA and TLJ happen. It is fairly clear that all of Captain Cardinal's history of the first order is prior to TFA and should be similar armor. The boots are not clearly show on the book cover or promo poster, but are shown on the action figure. The boots are mentioned as being red in the novel Phasma. Captain Cardinal is described as having a red blaster in Phasma. I would assume that he would have color matching SE-44C, F-11D, and a F-11D Heavy. Armor style in book cover, promotional poster, and action figure all show standard First Order Stormtrooper armor, and not Phasma style armor. Seeing as how Phasma made her own armor and was not issued armor, Captain Cardinal should have standard TFA armor in red. The cape is show in several different ways. It is show with a silver stripe in 2 of the 3 references and no stripe in one. It is shown on the right shoulder on 2 of the 3 references and on the left shoulder on one of the references. I've reached out to Teresa Nuthall (Geeky Pink) who is making my cape. She has received guidance from the author that is is exactly like Phasma's cape, except with a grey stripe and worn on the right shoulder. Color: As far as color goes, none of the references are the exact same color, but they are all close. I am choosing to use Duplicolor Torch Red. This is the color I found that closely matches the references and also matches my gloves and shoes. All above information comes from the books Phasma and Glaxay's Edge: Black Spire, unless noted. I may add more to this section if I find any additional information.

Now to finish up.. The front/rear scope greebs have been CA (super) glued on, and to keep them secure I added wood screws from underneath. I countersunk the holes slightly to where the screw head would be flush with the bottom of the rail and would not be noticeable. For the rebar clips, I went with slotted pan head screws, as they look like the ones in the reference images. Reference Pan head (slotted) Finished product The screw on the rectangle greeb is a round-head star screw. I looked all over, but this is the closest I could come. CA glue added to keep it from twisting. The buttons and "swoop" were simply CA glued on. And here it is. I will painting the brass grip screw black and weathering it slightly as soon as the paint cures. Epilogue: Are there details that are not "ideal"? Absolutely. Will it pass at Centurion? I like to believe so, lol. Are there things that I would do differently? Probably, but I'm pretty pleased with the end result. Thanks for looking!! Since I have the molds now, if anyone wants a set of these greebs I can hook you up for around 11 bucks (including postage). PM me for more info. (Not shown actual size) NEXT UP! ROTJ build... EDIT: Completed ROTJ build can be found here.

Okay, time for the greeblies- I looked everywhere online for these, including Etsy, RPF etc. No luck. Seems strange that no one makes these (at least as accurate as I wanted) so after referencing and comparing the sizes from the official photos I ended up sculpting my own versions. I then made silicone molds and cast them in resin. Are they 100% perfect or exactly film accurate? Nope, but for my purposes I am happy with the way they turned out. Starting with the one on the front of the scope rail: According to this site, it was a button from a Sony Cassette Corder model TC-67. I don't think so. Sort of close, but no cigar. Here are the references from the ESB E-11 reference thread I went by- This is what I ended up with. Rear of the scope rail: No sites even attempt to explain what the heck these were, so I had to go by the references and hope for the best. References My version For the left side they used rebar clips, but after searching worldwide I don't think theses particular ones have been made in a LONG time. With the assistance of @ticopowell (THANKS, Caleb... you ROCK!) I ended up designing my own version, had them 3D printed, filled/smoothed them and cast them in resin. References My version The other right hand side greeb is this one. Fortunately, my local hardware store was having a sale on Boba Fett blaster pieces so I scored on this one. I am just kidding. Back to the sculpting board. References My version Now for the right hand side greebs. Pretty straightforward stuff here- A "swoosh" cut out of ABS and some buttons made from ABS. I made the buttons concave on one side to conform to the shape of the barrel. Last up is the scope. If using the Promo version, as per the CRL for Level 2 it must be the M-19 type. There are some pretty darned good ones you can find cast in resin (links below), but I decided to go with the metal version I found here (shown below). A great seller who I have bought a ton of stuff from. Resin versions- (link here and here). Next up, painting and mounting everything!

Just caught up with your build, and love how thorough you're being with both your build and your posts. And if it takes a year to complete, well, thats cool too. Its not a race, and it's as much about the journey Don't think I've seen anyone mention this (apologies if I've missed it), but have you been checking the EIB and Centurion checklists? If not I definitely recommend that you do. If you build with these checklists in mind from the start then you'll find achieving the higher levels much easier to achieve with minimal, possibly even no modification. EIB (Level 2) - https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/18-fisd-expert-infantryman-badge-eib-requirements/ Centurion (Level 3) - https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/140-fisd-centurion-requirements/ As for fans, microphones and speakers. There's several alternatives around, but here's one set of options to get you started http://www.tk10116.com/