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Congratulations trooper and welcome to the EI ranks

Congratulations Sam on obtaining Expert Infantry status. Well done. Just in case you may feel a little bit put off from the above suggestions to reach Centurion, Don't be, I had to do the same for some of the listed things for your armor . You wont be sorry and your armor will look even more superb than it already does. I had the same issue with my DT as well. I just cut approx 10mm off the white panel and then moved the clips round and re-screwed them back on. I carefully ran a Stanley knife along the finish line and then eased the waste strip off without disturbing the panel from being already glued on. Job done in 10 minutes. Most of all the other things too are easy fixes . Good luck.

The files that I use (non star wars, generic police radio chatter) are too big to email, but if you pm me your address I'll post you a memory stick [emoji106]

It’s not going to rival your collection, but I’m building a little horde of my own!

SHOULDER BELLS BICEPS FOREARMS ASSEMBLY Reference Image Glued the Biceps and Greeblies Add Snap to the Biceps and lower section of Shoulder Bells And Straps TEST Return to Index

Trimming done!(?) If it's anywhere you think I should return to please tell! Dome That's it for today!

Looking good

Congratulations Sam, welcome to EIB ranks.!!!

WOW

Hi Sam, and thank you for your EIB application! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required photos have been submitted, and on behalf of the entire D.O. staff we are pleased to welcome you to the rank of Expert Infantry. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly; In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armour. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. Excellent armor Sam, And as I always say, keep in mind that most things are just minor dressing issues. -Well, let's start from the top. This is a very common problem. In a perfect world, the ear screws should go aligned with the rear edge of the Traps(it is mentioned just for your consideration). Reference images -The brow trim is too low(and slightly angled). We are suggesting to rise it up a bit. Your brow trim is sitting lower than ideal for a Stunt TK, and looks more like those worn by Hero TKs. Raising it a bit would give you a much more screen accurate appearance. Stunt reference images Hero reference images -Another very common detail is the next one. The brow trim, should be a bit shorter. The one on the right side is perfect, the left one should be a bit shorter. We recommend you do it little by little so as not to cut too much. Reference images -As seen below, it looks like there is quite a bit of paint on the sides of your right Hovi-tip screen(the left one is perfect!) A few minutes with a razor knife, and fixed!!! Reference images - The paint details on the vocoder could use some definition with a few touch-ups(some non-acetone paint remover, some toothpicks and a few cotton swabs)... Reference images -It looks like you have too much padding on the top of the helmet. For a better overall look should sit a bit lower. This will improve your field of vision as well. Reference images -It looks like your shoulder bridges are too long in the back. You can trim them a little to be more screen accurate. Reference images -Maybe you can raise your biceps a little. It's not that they're misplaced, it's simply to keep them from hitting the edge of the shoulder bells when you extend your arms. -The TD must be centered(a simple dressing issue). Also, it looks like the end of the canvas belt is sticking out a bit. If it's too long, you can trim it a bit (easy fix). Reference images -Button plates should have straight corners, not rounded. Maybe you can sand the edges a little so that the edges are not so rounded. Reference images -We think this rivets are too close to the corner of the ammo belt. This is not affecting you for level 3 but for a more screen accuracy we notice and let you know it for future adjustments. Reference images -The Hengslter counter on the blaster is a bit on an angle compared to screen-used examples. Maybe you can rotate it a little. That would be great! Reference images *************************************************** Centurion Requirements; In this section we prepare you for Centurion. Because Centurion photos show more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here and additional photos may be required. We try to point out all that we can from what we see, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. -Your tears lines seem to need a bit more black paint in some areas. Just a few seconds with a permanent marker can do the trick. Reference images -Your forearms appear to be too large (should be reduced by about 1.5 to 2 cm at the top for a sleeker look)...We think that you can adjust their size a bit and this will improve your overall look. Reference images Reference image -We think that the look of the buttons needs to be improved. You can use a toothpick with some (NON ACETONE) paint remover. The buttons do not need to be perfect, but we need them to be a little more rounded. I would suggest using a small "Filbert" style (round end) brush. We are sure you will do a great job. Reference images -L3-The top of the ABS ammo belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels. The belt is almost in place. You just need to raise it a little bit. You can put some velcro behind the AB belt, to prevent it from moving. Reference images -Ab plate is overlapping the kidney armor on both sides. As we see that you are a "thin trooper", maybe you can place some foam inside the armor(if needed), and so, align the sides correctly. Maybe it's just a dressing issue, since we see that in some photos, there is no overlapping(in this case, it is enough to be careful when dressing). Reference images -We have several problems with the TD...Don't worry, they are all easy to fix. First of all, raised "buttons" should ideally face toward the rear (Image 1). Also, your end caps appear to be too wide(image 2).It will be necessary to trim them a little. You will need to move the clips outward too. It also appears that the clips are sitting above the control panel(Image 3). Image 1 Image 2 Image 3 To solve all these issues, this is what we would suggest: 1. Remove the clips and trim off the ends (you can use a hacksaw). 2. Trim end caps. 3. Move the clips to where the ends meet the bottom of the control pad and next to the end caps. . 4. Drill holes in the clips for the new screw position. 5. Re-attach the screws. If you have any doubts, you can see the reference images below(or you can contact the DO's team too). Reference images -Your butt plate is riding out and should be brought in to where it aligns with the kidney plate. I would suggest doing a strapping adjustment to get it closer. You can also add a pair of "V tabs" to the end of the plate and this should make the fix. Reference images - The gaps at the bottom of the rear ridges should be filled or backed with a small square of ABS. Very easy fix . Reference images And that's all Sam. We are sure we will see your application for Centurion soon. If you have any questions, you can contact the DO's team, we will be more than happy to help you... Congratulations!!!

You can download the files

I don’t think you’ll have a problem getting approved With that said, givning them a light shave wouldn’t go a miss as the movie-ears usually were a bit thinner - choice is yours (might have to zoom a bit to see though)

Hey all, apologies for the lack of updates on this thread... where does the time go? I admittedly have had a bunch going on lately (which I'll post a bit about here - again, my threads are less of a 'how-to' and more of a diary of my journey, and often includes a bit of life updates as well for those curious...) but I have also made some progress that I haven't shared just yet. Hang on, it's a doozy. Sooooo what's that ol' Rascal been up to? Frankly, I've been super burnt out, took some time off, and am easing back into things. I was fortunate enough to be part of a pretty cool project over the summer and ended up working on (building or rebuilding) like a half dozen suits in a very short timeline, and by the end of it, didn't even want to look at armor again for a while! haha More on that... later maybe. Next up, let's do a workspace update - I finally took the time to do a little garage/workshop remodel, so I could stop building armor in the living room of our one-bedroom. This little overhaul included doing some restoration work on an old metal workbench and vice that was left to me by my late grandfather. The workbench was cleaned up, repainted inside and out, got a new laminate top, a very cool oversize architect style light, second movable clamp light for detail projects, new hand press for snaps/punches, a power strip, cutting surface, drawer organizers, and an old monitor I had laying around (with VGA-to-USB-C connector, so my phone can run an Android desktop environment on it - great for displaying reference materials, how-to videos, etc). The old Columbia vice was also disassembled, cleaned, sanded/filed, and repainted somewhere near its former glory. I was also fortunate enough to receive a couple of new tools as wedding presents, including a very nice Milwaukee drill from @Ninety-Nine and a cordless rotary tool. I also got some pretty awesome Wall Control pegboard for behind the bench, to hold many of my tools (and a row of blasters). Finally, I updated my little patch collection wall in the space above it - featuring some fun FISD, IOC, and Southern California Garrison/Orange County Squad patches (my personal units). A brighter, directional main garage light also replaced the bare low-watt bulb. Pretty happy with how it all came out, but I still have a good deal of organizing to do and will likely add some more bins/organizers to the side. I added a lot of links in case anyone wants to know where this stuff came from - I'd recommend any of it! Before: And after (still a work in progress): Speaking of wedding presents, I took a good deal of time out this summer to help plan things out, and well... get MARRIED! My wife (and Jawa, DZ-71490) and I had a beautiful, small ceremony in August at a resort overlooking the beach and it was a phenomenal day. @Dsposato0 was kind enough to help MC and represent the FISD Crazy enough, a few weeks after the wedding (bringing us to the last couple weeks), and she ended up spending a long weekend in the hospital with a burst appendix and recovering, so armor again went on the backburner while I took care of her. She's doing much better though and work continues! I also was PET-scanned again this summer and continue to be in remission from cancer, so that's cool too. Butttt I also ended up taking a fin to the back of the head while out surfing in May and needed 20 internal sutures and 17 staples to hold my head shut, so that wasn't fun and prevented me from wearing a bucket for about 6 weeks (Hall of Meat - a pic of the wound for those with a strong stomach). It healed up well but again, set me back. We've forsure had ENOUGH medical issues to deal with lately. I have a build for @JHowe102 and a new Shadowtrooper recruit I'm currently still working on (but nearing completion), then once those are out the door, it will be back to focusing on the FOTK, then on an Anovos ANH build to replace my original ANH-S suit that has seen some battle... I was able to be patient in my search and came across a deal I couldn't say no to. I won't be doing a build thread persay (why, when @ukswrath has it fully covered?) but will likely do a little 'tips and tricks' thread, showing some of the techniques and tools I use throughout my build, and maybe it'll help someone (or me with your comments!). Still a bit backed up in the (MESSY) workshop though. Okay, so where's the FOTK at?! So let's start with a little spoiler for future projects (since I SWEAR I'm done for a while after closing all of these open projects out... adding some little troopers will be the focus!)... I bought more armor haha I found someone selling JUST the pieces needed to upgrade from TFA to TLJ, also from @jimmiroquai , and painted, 'ready to wear'. I saw the Facebook Marketplace post right around when the new Black Series TLJ buckets started shipping, so it felt like fate. You'd think I'd have learned my lesson about BS conversions, orrr about buying secondhand armor, but nope - I had these parts shipped from the UK and was pretty disappointed in the paint preparation and overall quality. You can literally see where a piece of masking tape was left and just painted over... the chest pills were hacked pretty haphazardly... and there was both topical damage (scratches/gouges) and casting imperfections that were never addressed originally - NOT up to my high standards. It'll be a full sand and repaint too. The other downside of this new set of armor is there was a LOT of velcro epoxied into it that was very difficult to remove. One upside is that it has not had additional resin added to the interior, so it is significantly lighter than my other chest/yoke. I'll likely add some resin, but NOT as much as the other suit, which will likely get sanded back a bit. I'll actually probably use the new chest/back/shoulders (not the cod/TD) for the TFA that I'm likely to wear more often, and the heavier stuff for TLJ. Another pretty big update is that I have been working with Sheev's Emporium a bit and snagged one of the first of their new full soft good kits (gaskets, neckseal, and rigging) for FOTK's and the stitched ribbing is probably the best I've ever seen. Looks like a very well designed kit and I'll be excited to take delivery this week hopefully (will post an update). I also have shiny shorts coming from @Soulart/Geeky Pink's, and already have Trooperbay gloves and Imperial Boots chukkas in hand, so that should be all my soft goods accounted for. I also snagged a rubber F-11D since I decided to sell the 3D printed one I have instead of trying to sand the myriad of print lines out. The gentleman who cast it was both former Praetorian and Ano...ther company, and apparently there is some controversy as to the ownership of his mold over on Faceballs, soooo that was a whole thing. But it's a solid, good looking rubber blaster and was a fair price, so whatever. I'll get around to painting it up as well and will likely use it as my trooping blaster, but won't try to add electronics to it. Okay, but where's the actual armor at?! The armor still has a long way to go, and I've had several minor (that feel like major) setbacks, and much like my ROTK, I can tell that several steps in the process are very linear and need to happen before I can move on to the next. The first and most daunting is adding the additional resin to the new pieces. For many months (freakin' pandemic Etsy hobbyists) resin has been very difficult to come by, and I am FAR from an expert in it, so I was really trying to buy the same stuff I used on my ROTK that worked well, but it has been out of stock (and the can I had went bad... resin has a short shelf life and I should have known that). I finally was able to find what I believe is a comparable product in stock at a reasonable price, so that's up next. Happening somewhat in parallel has been general paint prep. I started with the new chest and back/yoke, and well, this isn't even as many priming/sanding passes as I've done total, but here's a few shots. I've definitely learned since doing my ROTK and need to be a bit less of a perfectionist, and to "follow the rules" when painting - stuff like to allow for proper dry times, don't try to paint at night or when it's cold/humid, mask and manage for overspray, etc... always lessons being learned the hard way, but it's coming along. Another big lesson I learned is that my ROTK... is too shiny. The screen used suits are maybe a semi-gloss at best, but definitely don't have a thick layer of high gloss clear like mine. While it does look great, the time and money I spent to get it that way... really just wasn't worth it. What I DO like about the paint is how hard and scuff resistant it is, which I attribute to the 2K paint. I think for this one, instead of a Rustoleum white base with 2K clear on top, I'm going to try just USC's 2K Gloss White on top of white primer and call it a day. This should in theory be MUCH easier to repaint in the event of damage... which has already happened to my ROTK and now that I have to think about repairing it, I wish I had done differently (live and learn). I haven't had major issues with using THIN layers of Dynatron filler (which is similar to Bondo glazing putty) but I was recommended USC Garage's Flexible Glaze, which is a 2 component filler. I'll SAND the old paint, make any structural/deep REPAIRS with Apoxie Sculpt or marine epoxy, then a thin layer of filler/GLAZE on top, then PRIME with light colored filler primer, then white sandable primer moving forward (scratches/chips on the ROTK revealed the dark colored primer, which wasn't ideal), and then TOPCOAT with the 2K gloss white. I'll be doing the inside with satin white, as the flat I used last time tends to scuff and transfer color more. I'll probably be purchasing one of those decent sized paint booths that are like a popup camping tent since I made a huge mess in my garage last time, even after hanging plastic sheets. Anyways, I think that's it for now... LONG overdue, but hopefully updates will be coming more frequently now and I'd like to have this thing approved by the end of the year. My brothers in the SoCal Garrison (including @equuspolo, @Surfintrooper, and @yo_its_nino) totally inspired me with this photoshoot over the weekend, and it is too cool not to share! Photo by @KC Grim who may be joining the FO ranks soon as well! LONG LIVE THE FIRST ORDER!

Hello everyone, Kris Typolt here chiming in from Garrison Titan. I got approved last week but the start of the school (teacher) and having a newborn around means my free time has been a little short. I was the perfect age for the 1997 release of the OT and growing up my favorite figure was Han Solo in stormtrooper gear. Now I'm 32 and have finally become that stormtrooper myself, well stunt not hero. I ended up getting an RS commission but the minor tweaks I've done have gotten me excited for EIB and centurion levels and have got me wanting to build something myself. Thanks to everyone for being very welcoming and helping in the pre-approval thread. I can't wait to get trooping. Cheers, Kris Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

work in progress!! Hi All! Doing some research on helmet add-in's. Just wanted to throw together a list and see if anyone else knew of any others, or could give opinions. Not in any particular order. Tagging sources and sellers if they're on FISD, since we always want to support our own! Noting location where possible since it will affect shipping times and possibly taxes. Working list as I continue to gather more options and get more info. I plan on building a Fem7 (not 501st approved!) so space is key, so I will personally be more interested in space saving options, but will put as much info in here so others can refer if needed. Prices are not included, since prices can change due to costs, location, etc. UPDATE: 2020 JULY 8TH Going to slightly deep dive microphones and speakers, since I think this could potentially help those of us who are having difficulty being heard while wearing face masks. They will be detailed under VIII I. Fans (keep cool, prevent lens fogging) A. @ukswrath Stormtrooper Cooling system - USA California based - comes with battery pack, or get a power bank - option of a personalized 'bracket'; to mount 2 or 4 fans B. @CTID Troopacoola - UK based - just mount (some supplies included), and get a power bank - optional fan speed options C. @NeoNines First Order Concepts Rathtar - USA California based - powered by AAA batteries - use of little tubes to aim airflow at specific areas D. Trooper Tronix - optional rechargeable usb power units E. @StrmTRPR85 Fan Boys - USA Ohio based - optional control speed of fans - optional power on/off switch - optional power bank - has option of smaller fans: 35 x 35 x 10 mm F. Henry's Helmet Fans (also on FB, very responsive) - USA Washington based - has 3 different size options by request (smallest is 30mm) - depending on kit, has switch options, and 3D printing directions for directing air flow - needs power bank G. Make your own out of snow, that's a true SnowTrooper! 1. mini fans 2. power supply F. Only troop during blizzards II. Audio (hear the outside) A. @ukswrath Stormtrooper Hearing Assist (FISD) - USA California based - amp + 2 mikes + power; supply own speakers/earphones - option of purchasing 2 small flat speakers to put in the helmet B. Make your own 1. mini microphone(s) on outside (recommend in ear pieces) 2. amplifier 3. earphones or internal speakers C. Hope everyone speaks like Bernie Sanders III. Speakers (let others hear you) A. @ukswrath various audio systems B. Make your own 1. microphone 2. external speaker C. Do your best John Bercow impression... but say "First Ordah" instead of just "Ordah"! IV. Voice Changers (sound like the character, add radio static and clicks) A. @pwhitrowTRamp > note that due to size, cannot be placed in helmet unless it's Spaceballs bucket - UK based - comes with speaker, charge directly - option of keyfob control for voice clips, option fingertip buttons - not small, needs to be placed outside helmet - customize microSD on computer, need adapter B. @lerxstrulzTK-Talkie - USA, Texas based - need speaker, mic, power - lots of customization on phone app B. @TK6294iComm and shop (link in FISD thread is dead) - USA, Texas based - need speaker, mic, power - no background loops or sound bites - note that iComm itself has its own internal battery, which will die > mod to use external battery by @Sly11 C. @TK256 FX/ROM > no longer active, putting for archival purposes and thank you for your service D. @BrinkHouse*TrooperTalk > iOS based boooooo! Android is better!! - through iPhone so location is non-issue - needs mic, speaker, and splitter to connect all elements - highly customizable, since it's an app they probably will push the updates directly E. DIY using radios (See VII. D. for a great build) F. Take an acting class V. Chatter and sound bites A. *MiCom (FISD?) - USA based? - comes with battery, and palm-strapped remote with 8 buttons - need speaker B. @ukswrath probably has something the dude's like a one trooper bazaar C. Build your own 1. sound storage (phone or mp3 player) 2. speakers 3. optional: splitter (depends on what sound storage device is used) 3. optional: trigger item (PTT button, control gloves, etc) VI. Build your own A. Power supply options [credit @sharkbait breakdown of options in a short blurb, plus a longer explanation] 1. option: USB charged power banks 2. option: 9V 3. option: rechargeables B. Speaker options 1. Your own use (hear what's outside the bucket) a. option: mini speakers b. option: earbuds 2. to broadcast a. option: large speaker, placed on body b. option: small speaker, placed in helmet C. Microphones 1. option: wired - no need to worry about charge - depending other elements, may need to wire through clothes - depending other elements, can still be contained in bucket, but interior planning is a must 2. option: wireless - free of wires, bucket is easily removed without breaking image - power supply is to be considered - consider how connected (such as bluetooth) 3. option: throat mic - no concern over bucket space, can be hidden under clothing - consider ease of switching on/off when bucket is not worn - consider ease of use: throat mics need to be optimally positioned, and are affected by body hair and fat on the neck area D. Fans E. Voice changing or sound bites F. Padding VII. Recognizing awesome builds A. PatchBOTS Youtube - arduino based, puts in speakers, mic, audio, fan, lights, uses ROM/FX Board B. @MissionTrooper Troopduino - arduino based, voicechanger. He also has some shots of his fan build below, and is generous in providing the STL for 3D printed pieces C. @cjdesign DIY USB Helmet fan - what it says on the tin D. @TKedt static burst walkie talkie talk - uses 2 traditional walkie-talkies to voice change, amplify, and ability to speak privately with troop/handler E. @usaeatt2 TK Helmet Interior Assembly - absolutely beautiful interior design build that is screen accurate, using their own kit F. Not helmet related, but wanted to salute @Ruthar for his build on making armor Insulin Pump friendly G. @kamikaze Super clean helmet electronics/interior build - what it says on the tin, woooow that's clean H. @sharkbait gives a great breakdown of basic diy helmet below, but direct link here I. @themaninthesuitcase has an overview of diy fans below, direct link here VIII. Face Mask considerations A. Microphone Consider pickup location: is microphone is outside or inside the mask, or a throat mic Outside: May possibly be muffled, depending on distance to face. Would not have to deal with breathing noises or humidity. Inside: Will not be muffled, but will have to deal with breathing and humidity. Throat: sound pickup and humidity issues side stepped, but throat mics are inherently difficulty with placement. Consider connections: wired or unwired Wired: most stable, and will not require extra charging. However, wires will need to be tucked away, will need to be sanitized, and are a possible air leak or contamination risk depending on placement. Unwired: contamination and air leak avoided. Mic will need to be charged separately, and will need to be paired Consider contamination risk (may be more important for essential workers or those who have to wear for long periods of time) Consider ease of sanitation 1. Earset - can be outside or inside mask, though inside may be more difficult - possibly will interfere with ear loops (if wearing a bandanna or using ear savers, may not be an issue) 2. Headset - can be outside or inside mask, though inside may be more difficult - will definitely be more likely to interfere with masks and bandannas, depending on placement of band 3. Lavalier 2. Throat B. Speaker Consider placement Consider power C. Useful Links/videos/builds 1. @MissionTrooper recommended watching build of Adam Savage modifying a small lavaliere mic into glasses - Microphone is from the company Countryman, and specifically is the B6 lavaliere mic, which has a very small profile - Countryman does have other laveliere mics that are not as eyewatering, such as the EMW lavaliere mic, which is about half the price of the B6